Next the replacement y-pipe. Use the RTV gasket sealant again on the gaskets for the y-pipe/manifold connection and for the y-pipe/catalytic convertor connection. Stick them on and then you don't have to worry about them. Getting everything to line up was a wrestling match and it took some force to make them participate. The best advice I can give is to leave the y-pipe off the hangers until after you've got it bolted up. I found it easiest to get the nuts at the cat threaded on just slightly and then thread one nut at a time for each of the y-pipe/manifold connections. Once you've got one nut on each connection add the rest and tighten down progressively (don't tighten one connection down all the way then move on, tighten one a bit then tighten the next a bit between all three connections). I then put a screwdriver through the rubber hanger and pulled them over to the y-pipe hangers. Some WD-40 will help them slide on/off.
Here's a pic from below the car of the y-pipe successfully bolted up.
Double and triple check all bolts...
If you removed the IM and radiator now you can put them back on. Otherwise replace the splash gaurd, cross member, and anything else you took off. Now the part you've been waiting for. STARTER' UP!
It's normal for the pipes to smoke a bit for the first heat cycle and I actually had a CEL for the first drive. I haven't had one since. Figure it was probably the extra gasket sealant burning off. It's also normal for the pipes to turn a goldish color from the heat.
Happier car finished shot...
Dog not included...
Well I hope this enormously long write-up helped someone else out there complete the process. Yes, it is a PITA but will end up saving you a ton of money from paying to have it done at a shop. Let's hear some feedback...
metros