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Old 3-22-06, 18:50   #3 (permalink)
Graham_A_M
Da' Original [shizzle]nit.
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Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Calgary, Canada
Age: 27
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Guys, PM me if you have any questions, I'm here to help.


EDIT: Another update... lots of people PM me with further questions: and thats fine.. but to save some time I copy & pasted a section of a few PM's that I replied to.. here are some of the exerpts.

Regarding using professional waxes: A company like Mothers would want you to blow obscene amounts of money on a 3+ step waxing process (just more products for you to buy) but their not needed. You can argue that all you want: but really..... a good wax is all you need.. every 3 months and you wont have to worry about anything else since the wax will actually absorb into the deteriated paint and solidify... which is exactly what good wax does. IT works just like putting lotion on your skin.. it absorbs into the pores: paint also has pores (which comes from wear and tear) and the oil in that wax I recommended is designed to be a filling agent for those pores
Their only needed when you doing fancy "wax jobs" called a "cut & polish" (which means using a power buffer and removing a thin layer of clear coat using a mildly abrasive "wax").
A claybar is just that: a claybar. much the same as a bar of soap. Honestly: their primairly used in removing contiminants from NEW vehicles... very rarely are they needed for used vehicles. They remove something called "fall out" which is a contaminant left on new cars when their shipped to the dealership. Thats pretty much it. You can use them for bugs.. but its really risky.. because they "Streak" very easily.. and you need some pretty radical chemicals to remove the clay marks. Its best to use a mild cleaner like concentrated car wash soap in a spray bottle: spray it on the bugs: let it sit so the chemicals can do their job: (about a minute to be safe) then spray it off. They just lift off with total ease if you do that. WIth Claybars: you have to be incredibly carefull.. the car surface has to be completely wet: and you have to glide the claybar over it very gently... usually numerous times. The best claybar to get is by CarBrite. Its bloodly expensive ($90 I Think!!!) but it works like a dream. Honestly: dont bother.. its not needed.

How wash a car: use that spray bottle soap techinque (or "pre-soak" at a car wash) to soak the whole car. It will cut and lift off most of the coarse dirt. THen rinse it off thoroughly... again trying to get most of the course dirt off. This is REALLY important since if you DONT get most of the dirt and grime off the car: when you go over it with a foam brush: you'll be grinding it into the paint. WHich is why TONS of cars out there have paint thats trashed: for that exact reason. Also, when at a self-serve car wash: take the pressure washer and hose down the foam brush itself: you wouldn't believe how many people use that same brush to scrub down the rims on the 4x4's and everything else... usually there is lots of grit in the brush. After that give'r with the brush and just hose it off. THis is the BEST Time to wax the car. Leave some water every here and there on the paint. When you waxing the car the wax/applicator pad will flow much more smoothly since the water acts like "grease" (you also go through less wax this way) Then just finish off by wiping it off using a terry cloth or a normal hand towel.

Last edited by Graham_A_M : 12-26-08 at 13:45.

Da Whips
-'04 BMW Z4 Roadster, 3.0I, SMG 6speed w/triptronic, ///M sport suspension option
-'07 Triumph Daytona 675.
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