Here are some more pictures of the o2 housing with the turbine housing separator fence welded on:
We welded an o2 bung on at the stock location. Later, I will probably add a 2nd bung lower down for a wideband o2 sensor.
Here is a pic of the wastegate tube collected in just above the flange:
This is a MUCH better design than that German thing for sale on eBay for $300:
Note that although theirs does have the fence, its too small, the ports are smaller, the tubes are smaller, the flanges look like 1/4 inch, and the wastegate tube feeds back in at almost a 90 degree angle!!! Not to mention its ghetto chromed.
Here is a side-by-side comparison of the NEW o2 housing versus stock.
Just look at the difference in outlet size!!!
Now tell me... do you think my new design will flow better than stock, or the ugly German one? Lets try it....
Here I'm bolting it to the car. I decided it was easier to just move the a/c compressor than take off the entire exhaust (again).
I had to bend the oil dipstick tube out of the way just a little to accomodate the wastegate tube:
Here it is with the a/c back in place. Note that the wastegate tube does get a little close to the compressor but that area will not be as hot as the main downtube.
I went ahead and bolted it to the STOCk downpipe and drove it around just so I could see if there was any difference.
This is a view from under the car looking at the bottom of the turbo.
The blue thing below is my A/N fitting for the oil drain line, obviously not stock.
I drove it around with the stock downpipe. I first noticed that it sounded different,
an unusual side effect, rather good.
The boost came on considerably earlier and faster. I had my controller set to 8psi
and it got there very quickly and stayed PEGGED on 8psi even and full throttle.
This means, NO BOOST CREEP. So the wastegate was opening and breathing just fine.
I plan to take it off and get it heat coated by the
Polymer Dynamics guys, the same ones that make TX-7
They make a new ULTRA COPPER coating that will penetrate the metal and make it a copper/yellow.
The idea is to keep the heat IN the downpipe. Plus the coating will prevent rust since we just made it from mild steel.
I may also nomex wrap it as well since I cannot put the stock heatshield back on.
The next step, of course, is to make a suitable downpipe for the new enlarged housing.
I already have a 3 inch downtube I got from
http://vrsexhaust.com.
I may just weld on a 2.5 to 3.0 inch recuder/expander like this one:
Then weld a 2.5 inch 3 bolt flange to the small end of that.