[fredio54]

Originally Posted by KING6

Are you seariously that closed minded, feels like im replying to a mazda tech that designed the motor.

to me it appears that sometimes you post your opinion just because you want it to be different, and refuse to listen. case in point : pcv thread.

your attitude seemed to be something like :

"i did it this way and nothing bad happened so it must be right"

instead of a logical reasoned approach that shows what must be right rather than assuming it.

in summary, no i'm not closed minded, but i have thought this through thoroughly.

We use deisel fuel to clean parts at our shop. Parts that are on big rigs that get more dirty then any HLA could ever be. Everytime we do a wheel seal on a rig, We take it to our parts washer machine, wich is filled with deisel.. and it eats all of grime right off the bearings in seconds. (grime that the strongest brake cleaner, degreaser takes alot of, and much more time to clean)

i dont doubt that diesel softens greasy gunk. quickly even.

It will work, I wash my hands with it when ever I get done with work and I have oily greasy spots soaked into my skin that soap will not remove. Id use a solvent, but that crap drys your hands out. Desiel just leaves a smell.. wich goes away after washing your hands a few times.

are you looking forward to a slow painful cancerous death? perhaps you should rethink your use of carcinogens to wash yourself. maybe even wear gloves.

All I know is mine work like new, Ill continue to do it like Ive done it in the past.

sure, i wasnt suggesting you do anything differently. cept not state that the ball doesnt matter when it does.

It doesnt matter if there not getting the pressure, or not holding it,, or a combination of that. They need to be cleaned.
But so does the rest of the motor.

true. if the engine is dirty, they will start ticking again sooner. synthetic oil will stop the crap from forming inside the lifter from valve heat though.

Far as i know, from my expereince, they dont get caked brown inside like the rest of the motor. And that, requires a few hrs in the heated/enclosed parts washer.

see, this assumption on your part has led to the apparent disagreement.

they DO get caked brown, ney, caked solid and believe it or not DRY WITH NO OIL AT ALL. just solid gunk. nothing else. dry carbon. diesel will NOT dissolve that at all. not even close. however, i also missed the bit where you said you knocked them down to clean. sounded like you just soaked them in diesel and called it good.

i didnt pull that little hat out of mine. that would have made the cleaning somewhat quicker and easier. i have to say though, i dont recommend just grabbing them with pliers etc. i know they are MUCH harder than the pliers, but if you should scour them at all...

i still prefer the impact method for getting the middle bit out of the main big bit.

as for the ball thing, heres why :

the principle of operation is that the freeplay is taken up by the thing expanding on its own accord (partially assisted by "oil pressure" (the head only has flow really. hence the restrictor between the head and the block)) and drawing in oil as it does so. upon compression with the cam, the oil must not escape, hence the tight fit, and accurate check valve that seals and hold enormous pressure.

to illustrate this :

when they are properly clean, you can put them in a vice and squeeze till seomthing gives. no oil will come out... it will be like a solid lump of metal. these are the wonders of hydraulic systems. zero (for water, but close to it for others) compression is a great property of most liquids.

dont take it the wrong way. just saying it how it is.