MX6.com - View Single Post - Fitting a Falcon 100amp alternator to you 1G pics galore

**chief tool** · 9-20-07, 1:23

Here is how I fitted a falcon EF/EL alternator to my 1G.

What it fixes...the problem whereby the lights dim at idle due to the lack of low speed current. Plus its a nice cheap mode as falcon alternators are cheap and easy to get

What it doesnt do, as yet you may not be able to use all 100amps as the fusible link is only 80amps...however this alternator will deliver 80amps consistently

First there is the issue of removing the old one...if youve already done this before, skip this bit. like any car with the alternator sandwiched between the block and the firewall its never going to be easy to get out.
First disconnect the -ve battery terminal
Loosen the belt.

See the access here from the right hand side :

I ended up removing the earth strap, the cruise control and the a/c pipe brackets, just so I could get my hand in there with cutting it to ribbons!

After undoing the ouput connector and diconnecting the input plug you can undo the bottom polt and pull the alternator out.
I found it easiest to remove it from the left hand side of the car.
But to the do this I disconnected the charcoal cannister, the speedometer cable and removed the fuel filter from its mounts.

I found my boost gauge hose and my non standard heater hoses complicated things as they used up space that I needed to get the alternator out

Fitting the Falcon Alternator:

Now the old one is out...I removed the bottom bracket to check the fit(you dont have to do this, I just proved it fits)....dont forget to squish the steel insert at the back of the falcon alternator back into the housing..I did this in the vise...
Its meant to come back out the right depth when you tighten the bottom bolt.

This pic show the falcon alternator fitted in the vise....note the bolt goes through from the opposide side.
Not only does it go through from the other side, but its longer and is a M10x1.25 where as the original is a M10x1.5

I forgot to take the bolt from the ford, when I removed the alternator off the car, So I had to reach into the parts bin to find a bolt that would fit...dont know what car it was off but it looked like it might have been an a/c bolt from a GC (having owned 5 GC's most of the parts in the box are GC bits)

About now you feed the new alternator back in the way the old one came out...but its bigger so its a tighter fit.

Now, the other down side of the bottom bolt going though from the opposite side is that its harder to get in...I found it necessary to remove the RH wheel and the plastic cover to get access to the area, and then found that the bolt wouldnt clear the chassis rail. I installed only one bolt in the lower bracket into the block...the front top one.
This allowed me to tilt the bracket down the slide the bolt in.

This photo shows it after it was done.

I then put the remaining bolts in to fix the bracket to the block

Next problem...the top hole in the alternator is bigger than the stock one and its not threaded.
Being an idealist, I chose the use a bolt large enough for a snug fit in the hole...an M10.

This meant filing out the adjustment bracket

Didnt take that long, only needed 1mm off each side..
I chose to repaint mine, as the original paint hade peeled off anyway after a master cylinder brake fluid leak previously.

Rather than use a bolt and nut, I chose to tap the adjustment block to an m10x1.5

I didnt have to drill the hole, just tapped it as is..worked a treat.

Here it is fitted

Note the belt alignment...I chose to leave the falcon pulley boss on, as I could see much value in changing it...there was still enoguh clearance to get the belt between the chassis rail on the front of the pulley.
plus there was no misalignent when fitted as shown

I measured before and after to check.

Now the electrical side...

The input plug fits straight on..bonus!
the output one...nup.
I had to cut off the original lug and crimp on a larger one...I put a dab of solder on it just to make sure there was good electrical contact...but you need a 100+ watt iron to do this.
No photos... I forgot to take a photo of this bit.

I connected it all up from the underside of the car, so I could see what I was doing...but you can do whatever suits.

Finally reconnect the -ve battery terminal....and assuming youve already adjusted the belt tension...fire it up

I measured the battery voltage at idle :

All good at about 14.5volts....which is about right for charging that battery (mine is a bit old)
Then a test drive around the block..with all loads running...lights, a/c, wipers and inside fan (it was raining so it made it easy) and no problems with the wipers getting slow at the lights like before..

Wish I'd done this ages ago...

For part two, we will see if the same mod can be done on a GC

9-20-07, 1:23	#1 (permalink)
chief tool Join Date: Feb 2006 Location: Sydney, Australia Age: 35 iTrader: (2)	Fitting a Falcon 100amp alternator to you 1G pics galore Here is how I fitted a falcon EF/EL alternator to my 1G. What it fixes...the problem whereby the lights dim at idle due to the lack of low speed current. Plus its a nice cheap mode as falcon alternators are cheap and easy to get What it doesnt do, as yet you may not be able to use all 100amps as the fusible link is only 80amps...however this alternator will deliver 80amps consistently First there is the issue of removing the old one...if youve already done this before, skip this bit. like any car with the alternator sandwiched between the block and the firewall its never going to be easy to get out. First disconnect the -ve battery terminal Loosen the belt. See the access here from the right hand side : I ended up removing the earth strap, the cruise control and the a/c pipe brackets, just so I could get my hand in there with cutting it to ribbons! After undoing the ouput connector and diconnecting the input plug you can undo the bottom polt and pull the alternator out. I found it easiest to remove it from the left hand side of the car. But to the do this I disconnected the charcoal cannister, the speedometer cable and removed the fuel filter from its mounts. I found my boost gauge hose and my non standard heater hoses complicated things as they used up space that I needed to get the alternator out Fitting the Falcon Alternator: Now the old one is out...I removed the bottom bracket to check the fit(you dont have to do this, I just proved it fits)....dont forget to squish the steel insert at the back of the falcon alternator back into the housing..I did this in the vise... Its meant to come back out the right depth when you tighten the bottom bolt. This pic show the falcon alternator fitted in the vise....note the bolt goes through from the opposide side. Not only does it go through from the other side, but its longer and is a M10x1.25 where as the original is a M10x1.5 I forgot to take the bolt from the ford, when I removed the alternator off the car, So I had to reach into the parts bin to find a bolt that would fit...dont know what car it was off but it looked like it might have been an a/c bolt from a GC (having owned 5 GC's most of the parts in the box are GC bits) About now you feed the new alternator back in the way the old one came out...but its bigger so its a tighter fit. Now, the other down side of the bottom bolt going though from the opposite side is that its harder to get in...I found it necessary to remove the RH wheel and the plastic cover to get access to the area, and then found that the bolt wouldnt clear the chassis rail. I installed only one bolt in the lower bracket into the block...the front top one. This allowed me to tilt the bracket down the slide the bolt in. This photo shows it after it was done. I then put the remaining bolts in to fix the bracket to the block Next problem...the top hole in the alternator is bigger than the stock one and its not threaded. Being an idealist, I chose the use a bolt large enough for a snug fit in the hole...an M10. This meant filing out the adjustment bracket Didnt take that long, only needed 1mm off each side.. I chose to repaint mine, as the original paint hade peeled off anyway after a master cylinder brake fluid leak previously. Rather than use a bolt and nut, I chose to tap the adjustment block to an m10x1.5 I didnt have to drill the hole, just tapped it as is..worked a treat. Here it is fitted Note the belt alignment...I chose to leave the falcon pulley boss on, as I could see much value in changing it...there was still enoguh clearance to get the belt between the chassis rail on the front of the pulley. plus there was no misalignent when fitted as shown I measured before and after to check. Now the electrical side... The input plug fits straight on..bonus! the output one...nup. I had to cut off the original lug and crimp on a larger one...I put a dab of solder on it just to make sure there was good electrical contact...but you need a 100+ watt iron to do this. No photos... I forgot to take a photo of this bit. I connected it all up from the underside of the car, so I could see what I was doing...but you can do whatever suits. Finally reconnect the -ve battery terminal....and assuming youve already adjusted the belt tension...fire it up I measured the battery voltage at idle : All good at about 14.5volts....which is about right for charging that battery (mine is a bit old) Then a test drive around the block..with all loads running...lights, a/c, wipers and inside fan (it was raining so it made it easy) and no problems with the wipers getting slow at the lights like before.. Wish I'd done this ages ago... For part two, we will see if the same mod can be done on a GC