MX6.com - View Single Post - Fitting a Falcon 100amp alternator to you 1G pics galore

**chief tool** · 9-25-07, 19:47

I decided to do the swap after a few other people on the forum had discovered a similar problem with their car. I chose to fit the mitsubishi one off a ford, as I was doing it as a low budget mod, and I could not find a bosch unit that had the right current rating for what I wanted.

One of my paid jobs is building commercial vehicles with electronic equipment racks in the back that consume heaps of power...apart from fitting half a dozen extra batteries, we sometimes fit an extra alternator if there is space...or try to fit a bigger one if there isnt.

And on the whole I'd have to say I am pretty dissapointed with the number of manufacturers who think that they can get away with an alternator that is borderline for the car...the GD 626 fits that bill...no other car that I've owned was as bad...I have had a few GC's and all except my turbo one were ok. Its probably comes down to cost savings by the manufacturers

One of the best Alternators I have come across is the denso one of a '97 Jeep Cherokee (the rest of the car is rubbish) it was a 120amp, delivering 100amps at idle...fantastic...we didnt upgrade the alternator on that car..
The rear equipment draws on average 40-50 amps...
The only thing that happened in the end was all the varnish peeled of the windings after about 5 years of use/abuse I'd would say this was due to the lack of internal cooling, drawing 100 amps is one thing but the alternator fan running at about no revs at the same time isnt good, plus Jeep engine bays get so hot that you burn your fingers on the bonnet in the summer...this didnt help either.

In summing up...fiitng the ford one was cheap...the mitsubishi one turned out to be easier to get (and maybe slightly easier to fit) and it fixed the problem.

Sure some alternators can be a bitch to repair...but at $40 I would just visit the wreckers again! I wouldnt call repairing a mitsubishi one a show stopper..even taking it off the car. Its not like your doing it every weekend!

And if you havent increased you electrical loads, its unlikely that this mod will be of much value except it might make replacement alternators cheaper.

And the FE3 engined cars might not experience the same problem, as the alternator may spin faster at idle than it does on the GD with 12v/8v engines.

9-25-07, 19:47	#21 (permalink)
chief tool Join Date: Feb 2006 Location: Sydney, Australia Age: 36 iTrader: (2)	I decided to do the swap after a few other people on the forum had discovered a similar problem with their car. I chose to fit the mitsubishi one off a ford, as I was doing it as a low budget mod, and I could not find a bosch unit that had the right current rating for what I wanted. One of my paid jobs is building commercial vehicles with electronic equipment racks in the back that consume heaps of power...apart from fitting half a dozen extra batteries, we sometimes fit an extra alternator if there is space...or try to fit a bigger one if there isnt. And on the whole I'd have to say I am pretty dissapointed with the number of manufacturers who think that they can get away with an alternator that is borderline for the car...the GD 626 fits that bill...no other car that I've owned was as bad...I have had a few GC's and all except my turbo one were ok. Its probably comes down to cost savings by the manufacturers One of the best Alternators I have come across is the denso one of a '97 Jeep Cherokee (the rest of the car is rubbish) it was a 120amp, delivering 100amps at idle...fantastic...we didnt upgrade the alternator on that car.. The rear equipment draws on average 40-50 amps... The only thing that happened in the end was all the varnish peeled of the windings after about 5 years of use/abuse I'd would say this was due to the lack of internal cooling, drawing 100 amps is one thing but the alternator fan running at about no revs at the same time isnt good, plus Jeep engine bays get so hot that you burn your fingers on the bonnet in the summer...this didnt help either. In summing up...fiitng the ford one was cheap...the mitsubishi one turned out to be easier to get (and maybe slightly easier to fit) and it fixed the problem. Sure some alternators can be a bitch to repair...but at $40 I would just visit the wreckers again! I wouldnt call repairing a mitsubishi one a show stopper..even taking it off the car. Its not like your doing it every weekend! And if you havent increased you electrical loads, its unlikely that this mod will be of much value except it might make replacement alternators cheaper. And the FE3 engined cars might not experience the same problem, as the alternator may spin faster at idle than it does on the GD with 12v/8v engines.