Dash Removal

[gavin]

Short story...had cracked dash(the 2nd one), it bugged me so I changed it (again).



While doing this however, I decided to document the process and made this pictorial how-to for removing the dash. Its not terribly difficult, just time consuming.

Things youll need:

-Time. Going at a relaxed pace an afternoon will suffice. Say 5 hrs depending on your speed.

- Factory service manual. Ive done this a few times so I should know all the ins and outs, but even I check the manual to fill in the blanks sometimes. It’s a great tool, get one and use it.

- A new dash.

If you are replacing the dash I would suggest getting the whole dash as its cuts down on the amount of work necessary. I replaced just the dash material on mine which is a lot more intensive. Ive removed the entire dash 7?, 8? times now so Im a bit used to the routine, the price for the material alone was good and so the extra work necessary seemed justified.

- Basic tools are all that’s necessary for this job, Phillips screw driver (perhaps a “stubby” as well) 10 and 12mm sockets.


Ive separated things into smaller segments so hopefully things are easy to keep track of. Like I said, its not difficult, but because of the amount of things that need to be disassembled, it’s a bit time consuming. Naturally as this was done on a 1991 GT some of the things will be 90+GT specific, but most of this will translate to other models as well.


Lets go then.

[gavin]

CENTER CONSOLE

There will be two screws on either side of the arm rest towards the back and near the base. Remove them. (sorry no picture)

Open tray and remove screws



Remove parking brake cover



Remove screws connecting arm rest console and shifter console.



Remove Arm rest console. You can remove it altogether if you have seatbelt tensioners or just move the console to the rear of the car with the tensioners attatched. (sorry no photo)

Working forwards we get to...

Remove shift knob



Below the center console and on either side will be screws securing the shifter console. Remove them.


And… while you are there remove the panels further in that cover the ECU. A flathead screwdriver should help to remove the plastic fasteners there. (no pictures here)

Remove shifter console



Remove the utility tray at the bottom of the console.

This is a snap-in unit and can be pulled out by hand with a firm tug.

Remove the screws behind the utility tray



Remove the ash tray and remove the screws behind it that hold the center console paneling

(I modified my ashtray to house my turbo timer so just ignore the wiring in this picture)

A good tug on the center panel and it should come out.



There are two connections for the cigarette lighter and the bulb that provides its illumination. Unplug those.



Remove radio (no pictures here)

I no longer have my radio system so I have no pictures of this for illustration. As I recall though the stock radio was held in by 4 screws. Behind the radio was one plug for power, one for the antenna and another for I-don’t-remember-what. All these have to be removed.

Remove HVAC control unit.



This is a GT specific item. Its been a while since my LX and I have regretfully forgotten the procedure for disconnecting the manual levers (but its cool because you have the manual and are thumbing through it filling in the blanks)

[gavin]

GLOVEBOX

On the side of the dash there will be a screw to be removed which is hidden by the door actually on both sides of the dash). Open the door and remove both screws. The stubby Philips will be handy for this. (no pictures)

Open the glovebox and there will be a few places to remove screws.

Direcly behind the latch there is a panel that can be removed. Behind that is a screw to be removed.



At the top corners and the base near the pivots of the glovebox


Remove the plastic fasteners that hold the plactic undertray under the glovebox


Remove the 2 screws below the glovebox and above the undertray


Unplug the glovebox light and remove the entire glovebox assembly



Under the glovebox will be some plugs to be disconnected.

Blower fan


HVAC system (GTs only) (bottom left)


HVAC servos (GTs only) (inside emply hole left by the glovebox to the right)

[gavin]

GUAGE CLUSTER

First disconnect the speedometer cable from the transmission.

This will enable you to move the cluster the few crucial inches to reach behind and disconnect the speedo gear from the cluster itself

Under the lip of the dash above the instrument cluster there will be 3 screws.


Behind the vent switch panel (a flathead will help to pop the panel out)



Again.. a good tug on the instrument panel facia will dislodge the clips. There will be some items to disconnect however so keep that in mind when you are pulling on it.

Rear defroster


Clock


Oscillating vents on the right and hazards to the left.

(you can also see the plug for the clock again in this picture). The remaining connectors are for my boost guage(lighting and vacuum hose) which can be ignored.

Four screws on both sides of the instrument panel



Carefully pull the instrument panel forward until you have room to reach behind to unplug these 3 items in this picture.

The first is the speedo cable(disconnected from its tan, out of focus receptacle to the left) the next are the two white plugs. After these are disconnected the instrument cluster can be removed.

[gavin]

STEERING WHEEL

First thing..disconnect the hood release knob


Then remove the steering wheel column covers



Remove the lower plastic undertray . Disconnect the bulb for the lighting under the undertray (no pictures here, sorry)

Remove the screws for the switchpanel cover

Two at the base, one on the side hidden by the door when closed and two others hidden near the top of the steering wheel column(shown in the picture)

Take a bit of time to separate the switchpanel cover as its easy to break things that are still connected.

Like the interior light dimmer switch, the power window switch, the AAS controller, etc. All these have to be disconnected.

Looking good at this point eh?



There is a metal underframe piece under the steering wheel column that holds one of the speakers. Remove the four 10mm bolts and remove the tray.(90+ specific item)


There will be two air ducts that go under the steering column. One will be attatched with a screw and will hold the radio antenna cable. Remove both ducts.


The steering column is held in place by four 12mm bolts. Remove those bolts.

Support the steering wheel column so that it doesnt fall on its own.


To the bottom left of the steering wheel column near the fusebox there will be some connections that need to be disconnected.

Green


White


Blue



Now youll be in the home stretch to removing the dash. Just a few bolts here and there to be removed.

Remove the three 10mm bolts on both sides of the dash


Remove the 2 bolts on both sides of the base of the center console


At the center of the dash near the windshield there is a small panel that houses the last bolt that needs removing.

(sorry. Overactive flash)


At this point you should be ready to remove the dash. The dash has pivot points at the base of the center console. Grab the dash firmly, lift up (as youll have to clear the steering wheel column mounting base that the dash rests on) and pivot the whole thing forward and out into your lap.

Unless of course you forget one last plug like this one for the A/C unit.

(which I seem to forget about 50% of the times).

Which reminds me. At the moment of pulling the dash made an effort to make sure that there are no wires still connected.


Remove the dash out the passenger door

(easier than trying to go around the steering wheel column) and there you go.

Installation of new(ish) dash will be in the reverse order.

And there you have it. Dash removal made, er…. somewhat easy.



Comments, questions, let me have it. [ Here: Comment on: Dash Removal - Mazda MX6 Forums: MX6 Forum (Comment on: Dash Removal) ]

Gavin