Going standalone made easy...

**cam22t** · 9-1-05, 3:36

Here is a basic rundown on how to fit up a standalone to almost any efi car.

This is the EMS Dualsport system that i have been using to run the F2T and the FE.

I removed the ECU as i am uprgrading to the EMS 8860.

The Dualsport will live on in Pjayb's car..

90pgt · 9-1-05, 5:40

looks good keep us up dated on the 8860 thats what i plan to run my fe on, what did you pay for the 8860

**cam22t** · 9-1-05, 5:50

Quote:

Originally Posted by 90pgt

looks good keep us up dated on the 8860 thats what i plan to run my fe on, what did you pay for the 8860

I picked it up for $950 AUD. I found a bargain..
Thats $45 AUD cheaper than the smaller Stinger version.

The 8860 lists at $1595 AUD new..

**KiNg MaRtY** · 9-1-05, 11:08

sounds like an awesome deal. let us know how it works for you and just how easy is it to setup?

EDIT:Just clicked on the pics so I saw how it sets up

**cam22t** · 9-2-05, 3:38

Here is the new EMS 8860 ecu and the Torsen diff.

Fresh from the Postmans bag today..

**cam22t** · 10-6-05, 10:25

Just wanted to update the Distributor wiring info for hooking up the aftermarket ecu to the F2T dissy.

And here is the FE DOHC dissy pinout

THESE PICS ARE LOOKING AT THE DISSY.

**cam22t** · 1-16-09, 22:17

Update...

Here is how to get your factory tacho to run with sequentual ignition.

**Zach** · 1-21-09, 13:43

When you say sequential, are you talking EDIS type systems?

**RbluEMx6** · 1-21-09, 14:18

Quote:

Originally Posted by Zach

When you say sequential, are you talking EDIS type systems?

Similar, I think. Our factory tachometers read off one (-) from the coil to get a signal. With EDIS you have two (-) signals, but the tachometer needs both. So you have to combine both (-) signals without touching each other. Thats where the Diodes come in. It allows both (-) signals to combine into one with grounding each other out.

I made a similar wiring set-up when I had EDIS on my F2T.