I have seen bits and pieces of this all over, but never all together, like, grounding the STI, or what it is, and adjusting the crank/cam timing if needed, and so on, so here you go:
Iif you have a turbo, yes, you need to ground the green sti connector to kill the computer advance. this is located near the driver's side strut mount. leave it connected the whole time. if you like to see why, take it off and check out the mark with the timing light. it bounces all over b/c the computer is adjusting automatically. keep it grounded during the whole procedure.
If no turbo, you need to disconnect the vaccuum advance. Same reason.
Warm up engine to normal operating temperature.
Turn all electric loads OFF.
Connect a tachometer and a timing light to the engine
Check that the timing mark (yellow) on the crankshaft pulley and the mark on the timing belt cover are aligned. Ignition Timing: Turbo models 9°(with test connector grounded) Non-turbo models 6°(with vacuum hoses disconnected and grounded)
If the mark is not aligned, loosen the distributor lock bolt, and turn distributor housing to make the adjustment.
Reconnect the vacuum hoses, or disconnect the jumper wire from the test connector.
The light needs to be connected to the number one spark plug. This is the one alll the way to the left, next to the timing belt.
Take off the timing belt cover, the bottom part should have the timing marks.
You want the mark on the crankshaft to be at 9 degrees BTDC if tbo, 6 if not.
If it is not, you use the distributor to adjust it. Loosen up the 2 bolts that hold it in place. Rotate it until the mark lines up. Once set, tighten it down.
Make sure you disconnect the green one-pin sti tho, when done!
Additionally, if you think your cam and crank are off (say at 2 degrees instead of 1, like if the belt slipped a tooth) then also do this (courtesy SickSix6):
Make sure your cam and crank are aligned, cam has an arrow for #1 on the cam sprocket and lines up with an arrow on the bracket. The crank pulley has a notch which will line up with an straight line on the oil pump. Or you can take the upper cover off, take your spark plugs out and rotate clockwise until you hit #1 on the cam, then look down and your crank notch should be at TDC (0).
If you give me karma for this, also toss some to SixSick6!!!
Last edited by 88mazdamx6tbogt; 4-20-06 at 11:38..
Clean your pulley off so you can clearly see the timing hash:
Then follow it up with white paint, yellow paint, or simple white-out:
You're also going to want to use a special service tool when you install the timing belt. This stops the crank from rotating, and yes it will rotate. The crank moving a fraction of an inch is enough to offset the entire assembly.
You want the crankshaft at TDC when you install the timing belt. Otherwise you'll see that your crank will rotate and your timing WILL be off.
This is an easy way to lock it in place. The crankshaft sprocket has a notch which lines up with the notch on the oil pump. When you're satisifed that it is at TDC, lock it in place so it won't move and confirm with your lower timing cover:
Better yet use a degree wheel and a lighted probe to check piston placement as well as valve seating at #1:
You can make a probe yourself using an ordinary LED, some wire, and a few batteries on a switch. They work great for small areas and at work, we use them to look up peoples A-Holes -wo0t!
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