I'm almost done this swap, but with the break in of my shop and the acquisition of my new ride, I've lost interest in continuing. The engine is for sale. PM me if interested.
Here's what I've done so far:
Why?
The Mazda 2.2l is the same block (F2) as the 88-92 MX-6 & 626 and 89-92 Ford Probe. The heads and intake are different and the GT's are factory turbocharged. So, this seemed like a good way to increase the measly 86 HP that the 8 valve carburated mazda Truck engine has. The Turbo F2 is rated at 145 HP and 190 ft lbs of torque. Major improvement.
I have elected to make this more difficult for myself than it should be: I'm bodydropped, and using a large turbo, and standalone engine management system, and many one off/ custom parts. This a hobby and a learning experience, so there may be easier (ghetto) ways to accomplish the same thing.
Intake/ Throttle Body:
This is the adapter plate between the lower intake runners and the intake plenum to flip the intake plenum and throttle body 180 degrees. The throttle body now faces forward, but the throttle cable is too short. A Probe/ MX-6 or MX-3 cable will work. I have an 95 MX-3 cable installed, with a bit of slack left. You can also get a custom plenum made. The adapter was pretty painless except that you lose an EGR passage.
*note: If you are body dropping the truck, the intake will interfere with the hood.
F2Truck did this a bit different: he had the throttle body flange cut off the intake plenum and welded to the other end of the plenum, and the other end blocked off. Looks pretty slick...nice and compact and clean.
The distributor and rear thermostat housing interfere with the firewall...a lot. Need to find another thermostat housing with a different flange orientation, such as a 1.6 liter Mazda 323. Also notice the nipple sticking out the side on the right pic...This also hits firewall, so removal of this nipple and tapping of the hole so a 90 can thread in, is recommended.
Unless you want big firewall holes and no heater core, go distributorless. While you're figuring that out, might as well go standalone and get rid of the VAF. Megasquirt is the ECU of choice, with a Ford EDIS-4 ignition system. A distributor blockoff plate can be fabbed, or the old distributor can be cut down and modded to use as a blockoff.
Here's a distributor blockoff plate I made from an old MX-6 dissy:
A little MAPP gas and aluminum brazing rod to fill the old shaft hole, and I end up with nice solid plate.
Turbo:
You might want to flip the turbo too. Get a 90 or 180 on it so the downpipe exits to the rear and the turbo inlet is forward. A 90 is tight. You will probably need to lose the AC compressor. Here's a 180 degree pipe with adapter flanges. It moves the Turbo forward a bit too. Later, I will make a custom exhaust header from 1.5" Schedule 40 pipe and bends in a 4-1 configuration.
The turbo is gonna be close to the Brake booster and brake lines, so a heat shield might be a good plan.
The stock intercooler will work, but an front mount intercooler with the inlet on on side and oulet on the other will require very little piping and bends. I've bee talking to Gerhard Schruf (Corky Bell's engineering partner) at Bell Intercoolers and they have suggested a 24" X 6" X 2.25" with vertical flow.
If you use an aftermarket FMIC you will very small amount piping to deal with. I figure I can do this with 2-90's and a 45 from the IC to the throttle body, and 2-90's from the turbo to the IC.
Oilpan:
If you don't want to get oil all over your steering rack, use the B2200 oil pan. The F2T pan has a different profile and may interfere with the steering rack and the drain hole for the F2T oilpan is on the side. There may also be a low oil sensor in the F2T oilpan, this may be a Probe only item for the overhead display.
Accessories:
The B2200 and the Probe/ MX6 pulleys are different and spaced differently. Use the old B2200 crank pulley, brackets and power steering. Swap the pulleys on the alternator (the B2200 part is only 50 Amp, the Probe/ MX6 is 70 or 80 if ATX) and use the Probe/ MX6 alternator. If you want to keep the F2T pulleys and brackets, you can use the F2T accessories, but the power steering pump from the Probe/ MX-6 has a remote reservior and one of the connections is too close to the large bolt that attaches the Steering box to the frame, especially since i dropped the engine mounts by an inch. A B2600 also has a power steering pump that has a remote reservior. Fitment is tight, but the connection on the side has a banjo bolt with a 90 degree fitting. It has a different shaft than the MX6 so the pulley won't fit. Find a splined B2600 PS pump and it might work.
Now there's the accessory belt that is a little too close to the lower radiator pipe...
I swapped the power steering for a manual unit. Free up some extra HP.
Exhaust:
Be prepared to re-do the whole exhaust. Stock is way too restrictive.
2.5" is a good size if you plan on more power in the future.
I built a 3" downpipe/ 02 housing, which will then flow through a 3" high flow Catalytic (gotta stay legal) and then a 3" in, 2 x 2 1/4" out Muffler. I have clearance issues, so I'll have to exit before the rear wheel.
Cooling:
Standard B2200's have a 1 row Rad, I think. The Automatics have a 2 row. The B2600i automatics also had a 2 row rad, the same dimensions as the MX-6 rad. You could ditch the B2200 belt driven fan for an electric fan. The stock B2200 rad has never had a problem with cooling, so I'll try it. If there are issues, I'll swap out for a B2600I rad.
Keep the lower radiator hard pipe from the B2200 and attach this to the Probe/ MX6 coolant pipe with all the nipples on it. The end nipple can be trimmed down to re use the B2200 heater core hose. Note that the lower radiator pipe interferes with the accessory belt if you use the Probe/ MX6 accessories. The radiator top hose will need to travel across the valve cover and up to the rad connection about 30".
All coolant piping except the lower rad hose will be replaced.
Fuel:
Also, the fuel pumps on the carbureted B2200's are mechanical, so you'll need to get a B2600i or fuel injected B2200 gastank with provisions for an in-tank fuel pump and run wires to the fuel pump for power.
* some carbureted B2200's have an in tank fuel pump! It's very small.
I used my fuel tank and dropped a Walbro 255HP in it. For fuel management, I added an Aeromotive Fuel Pressure regulator since the stock won't play well with the volume of the 255HP. New 3/8" fuel hard lines for supply and return will be run, as well as all stainless braided rubber hose will be used for fuel connections, except for the vapor system.
Engine control:
So you got all this stuff installed, now what? You gotta control it. If you have saved the stock Probe/ MX6 wiring harness, life will be easier. Re-use the harness with the F2T ECU or go standalone.
Electomotive,
SDS,
Megasquirt or Haltech will do the job.
Driveline:
The B2200 Transmissions bolt right up to the F2T block. No mods required. The Automatic B2200 transmissions have no powertrain control module or ECU control...they rely on vacuum sensing and kickdown switch on the gas pedal and governor weights for shifting functions. Not much to say about the B2200 5 speed, it bolts up, it's a 5 speed, you've probably got one if your reading this.
I swapped out the rear end for a B2600 rear end in preparation for the engine swap. The axles are a bit thicker and it's a 7.5". Rear end ratios are 4.1 or 3.727 depending if its from a 4WD or 2WD. I had the B2600 flange attached to the B2200 driveshaft and had my U-joints replaced at the same time. Got it all balanced and it bolted right up.
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http://www.mx6.com/forums/showthread.php?t=127438 (Comments On: B2200 F2T Swap: put a Turbo in your Truck!) ]
Interested
