Actually if you get a Forge under bonnet bleed valve: Forge Motorsport | Alloy Fabrication
Block off the lower fitting and hook it up like pictured above.
It will work better then the ball and spring MBC that don't seem to work very well with the small factory waste gate. They sit inline with the waste gate and hold off boost with a ball bearing, a spring and small bleeder whole, at the set boost the ball bearing gets pushed and boost pressure opens the waste gate... unfortunately they never seem to hold the preset boost very high in the power band.
You can install the controller in the dash.
The best set up would be to use boost from the charge pipe before the throttle body instead of from the turbo housing to regulate the waste gate*.
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I recommend:
Block off the waste gate nipple on the turbo housing.
Thread or weld a fitting to the charge pipe near the brake master, run a hose from it to the waste gate actuator, T that hose off (near the brake master/fire wall) and run a hose into the dash to the bleed controller and out to the PCV pipe like pictured.
-You can change/increase the sensitivity or control of the bleed controller by adding reducers to the waste gate line before and after the T (none in the controller lines). Mig welder .035" welding tips work great.
This give you full control over the amount of air going to the waste gate actuator, makes the base or stock activation of the waste gate more efficient or even to intake manifold pressure and vice versa:* an 8lbs waste gate that opens at 8lbs after the intercooler and is more likely to achieve 8lbs boost in the intake manifold then if it opened at 8lbs boost at the turbo before the intercooler and pipes giving 7lbs boost at the intake manifold. This 1lbs gain in manifold boost as a base for the waste gate makes it more efficient at holding the average 15lbs boost people look for from the stock turbo and a chip .
my boost gauge is under the car dash...from what ive been reading the shorter the lines the better right? these are silicone lines too which ive read are not the best to use.
can you draw a diagram please please please, lol. im a visual person, sorry.
88 mx6 turbo/5 speed ,HKS boost control,HKS turbo timer,Blitz bov,turbo back 2.5 exhaust,Borla Muffler,Ractive air filter(mushroom shaped) turbo,chip mod. Only 10lbs for now.
my boost gauge is under the car dash...from what ive been reading the shorter the lines the better right? these are silicone lines too which ive read are not the best to use.
can you draw a diagram please please please, lol. im a visual person, sorry.
Short lines are best but the important one is the line from the boost source to the waste gate actuator.
If you hook up the type of boost controller I mentioned the way I describe then the boost controller line length isn't an issue.
((If you run a ball bearing and spring MBC and run the boost source (from the turbo) to the dash and boost controller and then to the waste gate actuator then the length of the hoses can be a problem with waste gate activation (boost spikes/blown turbo))).
It all depends on the quality of the silicone hose, I'm using 1/4" fuel line for my waste gate hoses. To test the silicone line you have take the end that was closest to the waste gate and turbo heat and bend/fold it and squeeze it, if it splits or breaks or cracks... don't use it.
I am being lazy and drawing the diagrams by hand, taking pictures and posting them, I hope you can make them out and read my hand writing.
See this is exactly how the guy i had it from hooked it up! ppl were saying he's an idiot. he though had the compressor nipple hooked to the wastegate nipple with a T in the middle. Here is a modded pic of what you drew. MBCcontroller-1.jpg picture by bigturbomazda - Photobucket
thing is it worked with it like that. is this bad though? your way though i plug the compressor nipple off right?
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mazda Carnage
Short lines are best but the important one is the line from the boost source to the waste gate actuator.
If you hook up the type of boost controller I mentioned the way I describe then the boost controller line length isn't an issue.
((If you run a ball bearing and spring MBC and run the boost source (from the turbo) to the dash and boost controller and then to the waste gate actuator then the length of the hoses can be a problem with waste gate activation (boost spikes/blown turbo))).
It all depends on the quality of the silicone hose, I'm using 1/4" fuel line for my waste gate hoses. To test the silicone line you have take the end that was closest to the waste gate and turbo heat and bend/fold it and squeeze it, if it splits or breaks or cracks... don't use it.
I am being lazy and drawing the diagrams by hand, taking pictures and posting them, I hope you can make them out and read my hand writing.
Diagram
Picture
88 mx6 turbo/5 speed ,HKS boost control,HKS turbo timer,Blitz bov,turbo back 2.5 exhaust,Borla Muffler,Ractive air filter(mushroom shaped) turbo,chip mod. Only 10lbs for now.
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srsly
