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#1 (permalink) |
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Installing Pacesetter Short Throw Shifter
Tools needed to install the STS:
12 mm socket 12 mm opened/box end wrench 8 mm opened/box end wrench Phillips head screwdriver #2 Needle nose pliers Large Channel locks 2 Jack stands and of course you will need the short shifter and all box contents: 1 Adjustable throw short shifter from Nopi $62.00 with shipping. the ad says that it is for the GT, IT WILL FIT ALL MODELS OF THE 1ST GEN 6!!! step 1 throw included instructions away. Last edited by Jrod88 : 5-4-02 at 13:15. |
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I just love to say "factory turbo!!!"
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#3 (permalink) |
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Step 2
Raise your 6 in the front and place securely on jack stands so that you are able to slide under vehicle safely.
Locate the heat shield for the shifter. It is directly above the catalitic converter. Unbolt the three bolts using the 8mm wrench or phillips head, you may need a very long screwdriver to reach the rear bolt. These should come out easily. note:you do not need to unbolt the converter, just work around it you have the room. Last edited by Jrod88 : 4-30-02 at 22:43. |
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#4 (permalink) |
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Step 3
After removing the heat shield you will see the bottom end of the shifter and the bolt that runs through the center of it.
Use the 12mm open end wrench and the 12mm socket to remove. Having your shifter in fourth is prefered. Warning! Do not attempt with a hot exhaust!! You will get burned!! This is a pic of the bolt: It's upside down but you get the idea: Last edited by Jrod88 : 4-30-02 at 21:47. |
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#5 (permalink) |
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Step 4
COVER YOUR SEATS!!!
Go up top and cover your seats with something, I used an old towel. Next you want to remove the Center console using the phillips head screwdriver. Six bolts is all that holds it on: 2 under the rear ash tray, 2 under the panel for the E-brake, and 2 on either side of the radio console. Note: The panel for the e-brake is held in by one tab at the top that slides into the console, closest to the back seat, and a pressure clip at the bottom where the tray is. Make sure the e-brake is up then all you have to do is pull near the tray where the rubber slit stops. You may have to flex it a little to get the tab out. After that it should just pop out. You shouldn't have to use any tools to remove this. After you remove the console you need to remove the insulation around the shifter. This is what it should look like: Last edited by Jrod88 : 5-4-02 at 13:18. |
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#6 (permalink) |
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Step 5
Next you need to remove the rubber boot surrounding the bottom of the shifter: look at previous pic. Be gentle with the boot, you will need to reuse it...:
When that is done wipe all grease away from the area so that you can see what you are doing. You will then see the SPRING CLIP that hold the shifter in place.Take it out with the needle nose pliers. Here is a pic of the clip, look close... |
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#7 (permalink) |
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Step 6
After removing the clip pull up on the shifter, it should just slide out very easily..
You will see two nylon washers that the ball of the shifter rotates in. Keep them in order,take them off and clean them. Under the bushings you will find a rubber boot. You can leave it on the old shifter, the new shifter came with a new one. Mine was destroyed anyway. Last edited by Jrod88 : 4-30-02 at 22:41. |
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#8 (permalink) |
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Step 7
Place the new rubber boot on the shifter.
Next put the new ball on the new shifter and secure it. I moved it down a little less than half way. Install the nylon washers on the shifter, one below and one above the ball. Grease liberally with included grease. Push the shifter into the hole, you may encounter some resistance at the bottom. If so take shifter out and file the washers on an angle just a little so it will go all of the way in. |
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#9 (permalink) |
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Step 8
Go back under your 6 and reconnect the bolt to secure the shifter.
Next you will be ready to tackle the spring lock ring. Insert the lockring into the shifter hole using the channel locks to hold the side nearest you in place. Then you will need patience and a little luck to work it around in a counter clockwise motion until it is seated. This is what it should look like after the lock ring goes into place: ![]() |
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#10 (permalink) |
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Place the rubber boot back on the base of the shifter.
reinstall the center console and shifter knob and you are ready to go for a test drive.... I did not put the heat shield back on because it wouldn't fit. just remember not to tourqe the shifter bolt too tight or you will be crawling onder your car to loosen it.. I hope this helps.... Happy shifting, Jeremy |
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#11 (permalink) |
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Just to add to this.
I just installed a Civic STS (1988-2000) in my 1G. The only thing that differed from this is that I didnt get new nylon washers and had to make do with mine. The ball on the Civic STS was slightly larger than on the stock shifter so some shortening of the washers was necissary to make it possible to get the spring clip back on (hint: start by shortening the bottom washer). |
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Common sense is what tells us the world is flatapuss FE-DOHC : Go baby, Go!!!!!! Sir Charles Lyndon: Are you done with my lady? Redmond Barry: I beg your pardon, sir? Sir Charles Lyndon: Come come now Mr. Barry, I'm a man who would rather be known as a cuckold than a fool. 1991 Black TX5 Ghia
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