Followed on from part 1, here is the installation of the bearing :
Now to put it all back together :
hub with the scoring cleaned up
New bearing... I prefer to use the NTN (part no. 4T-CRI-0822) but these were unavailable at the time, so I tried this chinese product, which was about 2/3 the price, but made in Germany, using a Koyo part number! go figure (the Koyo part number is DU4272C)
Support the knuckle as shown, I used a 50mm socket, which fits perfectly in the recessed area where the seal fits
Put the new bearing in, and place a bearing plate on the top, to make sure it goes in straight, the socket on top wasnt really necessary, I used it as a spacer.
I pressed the bearing in until it was flush, which is as far as you can take it with the plate.
So I cleaned up the old bearing to use as a spacer to pres the bearing in the rest of the way
Here it is pressed in all the way
Dont forget to re install the circlip! I made the mistake of forgetting this once and had to press the hub back out, destroying a new bearing in the process, an $70 mistake.
Now, this is the bit that decides just how long the new bearing will last once its installed...you must apply the press load to the inside of the bearing only, not the seal, and not the outside....if you do you will damage it. I have even seen shops get this wrong.....
So I selected a socket that is just the right size to lean on the inside edge of the bearing.
To install the hub I sat it face down on an old brake rotor, a convenient way of support it to give clearance to the studs. I carefully placed the knuckle with bearing on top, trying to keep the bearing as close to horizontal as my eye can see.
Then placed the socket in position....the top socket was unnecessary and was only used as a spacer.
There it is....done, there should be no noise or sloppy movement now.
Now for the seal, ideally you would use a piece of pipe the right size to tap in the seal.... I didnt have one (its about 2 3/4") so I improvised with a hose clamp.....its strong enough to tap in the seal.
finally I put some high temp wheel bearing grease on the seal lip, and a little bit on the mating face, purely to offer a small amount of discouragement to any water that does get past the seal