Well i tried playing around with the spark settings some more in MT. I started it, and kept bumping up the trigger angle until I saw 10deg with the timing light (trigger angle = 45+ 80). I shut it down, wouldn't start back. I changed the cranking setting to trigger return rather than time based. It fired right up. Again and again. WoOt!
So set timing to -10 (map) and take it for a drive. Felt good, I boosted it and it did ok till ~15psi. - missfired, like weak spark. So I run over (in this car) to AZ and buy a cap and rotor. I go home and install it, jump in excited that I've finally got this thing conquered - tried to start it and I get heavy misfires.
I don't know what happened, but i was sop confused i started trying random crap. I put it at 60 and it started and died when the rpm dropped below 1000. Tried 70, and it started and continued to run, but ruff at idle. I break out the timing like, and its was again showing that its too advanced, but now only by like 5deg. So i adjust the disty till I get about 10 deg. Then I give it a quick rev, the timing goes like 15 deg advance just above 1000rpm ish. :? I checked to make sure I had timing back to 10 in spark settings, I did. I also noticed that as the rpm tried to drop below 1000, the timing would further retard, which would drop the idle further until it settled at like 600-750rpm with about 5 deg btdc.
What the heck happened?? I though the welds to lock the disty must have broke, but i took it all apart again it it looks the same. Welds are there, and I can see the counter weight springs stretched out...
My car hates me
'91 GT Running again! - $55 engine on MS ftw
'96 accord beater - $500 + $500 in parts.
MTSU Formula SAE - not mine, but i get to build it and drive it!
(Turbo Lag - Turbo Power) + Hype = VTEC My IHI turbo page
i'm thinking about it - but I REALLY hate the mess it makes. I've tried so many ways to get the daughter board in there, but in the end its always a mess of wires - there's just too many. I should have bought a v3 board.
why am i so cheap O yeah, i have no money lol.
'91 GT Running again! - $55 engine on MS ftw
'96 accord beater - $500 + $500 in parts.
MTSU Formula SAE - not mine, but i get to build it and drive it!
(Turbo Lag - Turbo Power) + Hype = VTEC My IHI turbo page
what do you mean makes a mess? I think I have four wires going from the daughter card to the main board. I trimmed everything else up. i'm also a section of plenum Cat5 cable as my wiring between the two boards.
I had it set up with dual VR sensors, so i had 4 wires in from the disty (2 ground, 2 signal) + 3 wires for power (ground, 5v, 12v) + 2 signal wires to the v2.2 board. = 9 wires.
PLUS - 3 wires for the VB291, plus 3 wires for the FET to control pwm for the idle speed valve.
So 15 wires in total, its just nasty. I don't recommend the v2.2 board to any one. I could grind two teeth on the 24tooth wheel and get rid of 3 wires, but 12wires is still a lot to deal with, all while keeping the signal clean.
'91 GT Running again! - $55 engine on MS ftw
'96 accord beater - $500 + $500 in parts.
MTSU Formula SAE - not mine, but i get to build it and drive it!
(Turbo Lag - Turbo Power) + Hype = VTEC My IHI turbo page
I had it set up with dual VR sensors, so i had 4 wires in from the disty (2 ground, 2 signal) + 3 wires for power (ground, 5v, 12v) + 2 signal wires to the v2.2 board. = 9 wires.
PLUS - 3 wires for the VB291, plus 3 wires for the FET to control pwm for the idle speed valve.
So 15 wires in total, its just nasty. I don't recommend the v2.2 board to any one. I could grind two teeth on the 24tooth wheel and get rid of 3 wires, but 12wires is still a lot to deal with, all while keeping the signal clean.
I might have to open mine up, but I don't remember being that many wires. I'm using 2.2 with the Glen's Garage MSnS Daughter card. I'm also not running PWM for idle valve...but I believe I'm wired up for it.
ok, i gave in, GT dist - 2 teeth is in. Nasty mess in the case, but i managed to cram it all in there. Runs great.
At first it was cutting out when i hit 15ish psi. changed plugs, cap and rotor - same thing. Changed plug wires and its golden
Thanks for trying to help everyone. Hopefully anyone else who thinks they wanna give the N/A disty a try wil read here first...
'91 GT Running again! - $55 engine on MS ftw
'96 accord beater - $500 + $500 in parts.
MTSU Formula SAE - not mine, but i get to build it and drive it!
(Turbo Lag - Turbo Power) + Hype = VTEC My IHI turbo page
ok, i gave in, GT dist - 2 teeth is in. Nasty mess in the case, but i managed to cram it all in there. Runs great.
At first it was cutting out when i hit 15ish psi. changed plugs, cap and rotor - same thing. Changed plug wires and its golden
Thanks for trying to help everyone. Hopefully anyone else who thinks they wanna give the N/A disty a try wil read here first...
the case may be a bit messy, but seems to run better without all the fuss. Also, I'm getting a stutter as well. Got new plugs, cap/rotor and igniter. Trying wires next. They be a little oil soaked.
Btw Matt, how close is your wheel to the pick up and how far are you backed off the trim pot?
I think the trim pot is full in, but i haven't messed with it in about a year.
The pick up is pretty dang close to the wheel. I just messed with it till it felt like stock.
I even nicked one of the teeth pretty good while trying to grind the 2 teeth, but it still runs smooth. It was kinda difficult to grind b/c I did it while the wheel was in the case. - that pin that holds the shaft in wouldn't budge.
'91 GT Running again! - $55 engine on MS ftw
'96 accord beater - $500 + $500 in parts.
MTSU Formula SAE - not mine, but i get to build it and drive it!
(Turbo Lag - Turbo Power) + Hype = VTEC My IHI turbo page
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