i need help [changing the exhuast gasket] - Mazda MX6 Forums: MX6 Forum
Mazda MX6 Forums: MX6 Forum User Control Panel
 


» Auto Insurance
» Featured Product
» Wheel & Tire Center

Go Back   Mazda MX6 Forums: MX6 Forum > 1G MX6 (88-92) > 1G MX6 General > 1G MX6 Forced Induction
Register Home Forum Active Topics Garage Garage Photo Gallery Arcade Mark Forums Read Auto EscrowAuto Loans

Mx6.com is the premier Mazda MX6 Forum on the internet. Registered Users do not see the above ads.
Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
Old 2-19-05, 20:08   #1 (permalink)
  Total: 13 Power: 5
 
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location:
iTrader: (0)
Talking i need help [changing the exhuast gasket]

can anyone tell me how to change the exhuast gasket or have a diagram

PHAT MX6 is offline   Reply With Quote
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Old 2-19-05, 23:21   #2 (permalink)
  Total: 1051 Power: 5
 
Dyoel182's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Granbury, TX
iTrader: (0)
Which exhaust gasket first of all?

I'ts a piece of cake to bake a pretty cake, if the way is hazy
You gotta do the cooking by the book, you know you can't be lazy
Dyoel182 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 2-19-05, 23:33   #3 (permalink)
  Total: 13 Power: 5
 
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location:
iTrader: (0)
Talking sorry about that

its the two that r from the block not the one on the turbo
PHAT MX6 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 2-19-05, 23:44   #4 (permalink)
  Total: 1051 Power: 5
 
Dyoel182's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Granbury, TX
iTrader: (0)
Basically, first you unhook and pull your radiator to give you room to work with. Then pull off the exhaust heat shield so you can get to the manifold bolts. Next the EGR pipe nut needs to be loosened and slid away so the pipe can get out of the manifold. Next disconnect the oil and coolant lines to the turbo and undo the brace bolt underneath the turbo if you still have it. Then get under the car and disconnect the downpipe to turbo gasket (you will need to likely replace this gasket also).

With everything disconnected (dont forget the o2 sensor wire also) its time to loosen the 6 exhaust nuts and gently pull off the manifold and wiggle the EGR pipe out. Hopefully all 6 studs will be there and not also come out when you loosen the nuts. Once the manifold is out you can check the studs to see that they are tight in the block and not stripping out. Now you can slide on the new manifold gaskets (I also recommend spraying them with some high temp gasket sealant just for kicks) and re-assemble everything.

Good luck.

I'ts a piece of cake to bake a pretty cake, if the way is hazy
You gotta do the cooking by the book, you know you can't be lazy
Dyoel182 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 2-20-05, 0:17   #5 (permalink)
Banned
  Total: 2843 Power: 0
 
SixSick6's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: San Diego, CA, USA
Age: 36
iTrader: (3)
Take Joel's advice and get in there and do it.
SixSick6 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 3-4-05, 16:08   #6 (permalink)
  Total: 10 Power: 5
 
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location:
iTrader: (0)
he's right... but i never had to take out the radiator... oh and my studs came out with the nut on it, so dont panic if this happens..... and that egr pipe can be tricky sometimes... it'll feel like it wont come out of the manifold.. i had to have a buddy pull the egr pipe out while i held the manifold up (after it was unbolted)... and good luck getting the downpipe heat sheild off... it will be a b*tch...
xtrakrdt is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 3-4-05, 17:18   #7 (permalink)
Jon
  Total: 1205 Power: 5
 
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Bothell, WA, USA
iTrader: (0)
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dyoel182
Next the EGR pipe nut needs to be loosened and slid away so the pipe can get out of the manifold.
Gigantic channel locks, or a decently sized pipe wrench is your friend here.

I also did it once by using vicegrips and a hammer.
Jon is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 3-4-05, 21:48   #8 (permalink)
  Total: 1051 Power: 5
 
Dyoel182's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Granbury, TX
iTrader: (0)
I wanna say the nut is a 1" if you can borrow a wrench that big. It is kinda a pain to get out.

I'ts a piece of cake to bake a pretty cake, if the way is hazy
You gotta do the cooking by the book, you know you can't be lazy
Dyoel182 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 3-4-05, 22:37   #9 (permalink)
Banned
  Total: 2843 Power: 0
 
SixSick6's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: San Diego, CA, USA
Age: 36
iTrader: (3)
Horrible ideas to use channel locks or vice grips, unless you like stripping nuts?

I used an ordinary crescent wrench to loosen. After the nut is out, go around the side and loosen some of the brackets that hold it taught. Then use a pair of vice grips to grab the pipe itself. Move the pipe towards the drivers side while you slip a straight edge screwdriver in between the pipe and the manifold. Now with the EGR pipe out of the hole, it is easy to remove the manifold and turbo assembly. When you put it back in, make sure you put the right side first. It goes in easier than it comes out.
SixSick6 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 3-4-05, 23:00   #10 (permalink)
  Total: 1512 Power: 5
 
Join Date: Jan 2001
Location: Wisconsin, USA
Age: 31
iTrader: (0)
I agree, there's no way in hell that channel locks (adjustable pliers) are goona do anything to that rusty, heat cycled EGR nut but strip it all to hell. Same with vice grips. Adjustable wrench, or even better the proper size open end wrench (unsure of size) would do much better to loosen it. Hit it with some PB blaster first.
magik8 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 3-5-05, 14:55   #11 (permalink)
Jon
  Total: 1205 Power: 5
 
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Bothell, WA, USA
iTrader: (0)
Quote:
Originally Posted by magik8
I agree, there's no way in hell that channel locks (adjustable pliers) are goona do anything to that rusty, heat cycled EGR nut but strip it all to hell. Same with vice grips. Adjustable wrench, or even better the proper size open end wrench (unsure of size) would do much better to loosen it. Hit it with some PB blaster first.
Apparently, niether of you two work with plumbing pipes much.

I know its crude, but I'm highly skilled in using channel locks, and if I can twist a steel nipple thats been burried 30 years off its threads and still salvage the thread then I can (and have several times) remove a rusty nut.
Jon is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 3-5-05, 15:20   #12 (permalink)
Banned
  Total: 775 Power: 0
 
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Calgary, AB, Canada
iTrader: (0)
lateral, etc.

I have used adjustable wrenches, crowfoot wrenches, line wrenches, channellocks, vice-grips, acetylene torches, penetrating oil, air chisels, pipe wrenches and chain wrenches on gland nuts for egr tubing (on various vehicles).

The correct tool is the one which does the job quickly and economically.

Just because it worked for you (or me) does not render it "the" correct tool for someone else. Someone else may have a different set of skills, and different set of available tools and a different car with a different history.

Acetylene torch is my "persuader" of choice, but I gave it to #2 son when I moved west and have not yet replaced it.

I do not condemn Damian for not using it.
SleepCounter is offline   Reply With Quote
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply

Thread Tools

Posting Permissions
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On



Powered by vBadvanced CMPS v3.2.2

All times are GMT -5. The time now is 14:43.



Powered by vBulletin®. Copyright ©2000 - 2013, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
SEO by vBSEO 3.3.2
Garage Plus vBulletin Plugins by Drive Thru Online, Inc.
© Copyright 2000-2010, MX6.com
MX6.com is in no way affiliated to Mazda Motor Corp.
All views expressed in this site are the personal opinion of the author and not necessarily the owners of MX6.com.