Basically, first you unhook and pull your radiator to give you room to work with. Then pull off the exhaust heat shield so you can get to the manifold bolts. Next the EGR pipe nut needs to be loosened and slid away so the pipe can get out of the manifold. Next disconnect the oil and coolant lines to the turbo and undo the brace bolt underneath the turbo if you still have it. Then get under the car and disconnect the downpipe to turbo gasket (you will need to likely replace this gasket also).
With everything disconnected (dont forget the o2 sensor wire also) its time to loosen the 6 exhaust nuts and gently pull off the manifold and wiggle the EGR pipe out. Hopefully all 6 studs will be there and not also come out when you loosen the nuts. Once the manifold is out you can check the studs to see that they are tight in the block and not stripping out. Now you can slide on the new manifold gaskets (I also recommend spraying them with some high temp gasket sealant just for kicks) and re-assemble everything.
Good luck.
I'ts a piece of cake to bake a pretty cake, if the way is hazy
You gotta do the cooking by the book, you know you can't be lazy
he's right... but i never had to take out the radiator... oh and my studs came out with the nut on it, so dont panic if this happens..... and that egr pipe can be tricky sometimes... it'll feel like it wont come out of the manifold.. i had to have a buddy pull the egr pipe out while i held the manifold up (after it was unbolted)... and good luck getting the downpipe heat sheild off... it will be a b*tch...
Horrible ideas to use channel locks or vice grips, unless you like stripping nuts?
I used an ordinary crescent wrench to loosen. After the nut is out, go around the side and loosen some of the brackets that hold it taught. Then use a pair of vice grips to grab the pipe itself. Move the pipe towards the drivers side while you slip a straight edge screwdriver in between the pipe and the manifold. Now with the EGR pipe out of the hole, it is easy to remove the manifold and turbo assembly. When you put it back in, make sure you put the right side first. It goes in easier than it comes out.
I agree, there's no way in hell that channel locks (adjustable pliers) are goona do anything to that rusty, heat cycled EGR nut but strip it all to hell. Same with vice grips. Adjustable wrench, or even better the proper size open end wrench (unsure of size) would do much better to loosen it. Hit it with some PB blaster first.
I agree, there's no way in hell that channel locks (adjustable pliers) are goona do anything to that rusty, heat cycled EGR nut but strip it all to hell. Same with vice grips. Adjustable wrench, or even better the proper size open end wrench (unsure of size) would do much better to loosen it. Hit it with some PB blaster first.
Apparently, niether of you two work with plumbing pipes much.
I know its crude, but I'm highly skilled in using channel locks, and if I can twist a steel nipple thats been burried 30 years off its threads and still salvage the thread then I can (and have several times) remove a rusty nut.
I have used adjustable wrenches, crowfoot wrenches, line wrenches, channellocks, vice-grips, acetylene torches, penetrating oil, air chisels, pipe wrenches and chain wrenches on gland nuts for egr tubing (on various vehicles).
The correct tool is the one which does the job quickly and economically.
Just because it worked for you (or me) does not render it "the" correct tool for someone else. Someone else may have a different set of skills, and different set of available tools and a different car with a different history.
Acetylene torch is my "persuader" of choice, but I gave it to #2 son when I moved west and have not yet replaced it.
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