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Old 7-22-09, 21:58   #91 (permalink)
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She got torque? Yer she pulls like a 15 year old.

Quote:
Originally Posted by compnut21 View Post
or you could have done what i did and left a screwdriver under the valve cover
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Old 7-23-09, 3:16   #92 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chief tool View Post
What is this GTR pipe of which you speak ? got any pics ?
Its a piece of cooler piping from an R32/3/4 GTR. Scott discovered they fit quite nicely over the TB, and you can attach your AFM to the other end of it, positioning it in the perfect spot under the dizzy.

There seems to be a few different shapes too, and the angle on some of them is different, probably depending on what model it comes from and wether its a factory item or an aftermarket replacement.

You can also get them in silicone, but good luck finding someone that will split it from the set of 4 pipes it comes in!


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Old 7-23-09, 15:53   #93 (permalink)
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Hmm....there is a place where I buy my silicone hoses, which mostly specialises in Nissan parts...i'll see if I can work out which piece it is...theyve been pretty helpful in the past..

Edit: it looks like it might be this piece :

Last edited by chief tool : 7-23-09 at 17:00. Reason: pics

84 626 sedan FE SOHC turbo (sleeper) soon to be DOHC
89 626 5 door F2T now with VF34
90 323 sedan B6 SOHC Slug-o-matic DD, sold...too slow
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Old 7-23-09, 21:40   #94 (permalink)
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i've got a woo chip, afm in the pipes, big cooler, stock dump pipe + front pipe + cat. heres some pics;






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Old 7-23-09, 23:17   #95 (permalink)
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lol @ the sticky tape on the AFM cap. Where did you find the vf12 and who did the machining?
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Old 7-24-09, 4:53   #96 (permalink)
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hey that tape is doin a good job, lol

got the vf12 from rslibertyclub.org. if u want one give rec01l a pm coz he said he had another one. theres also a guy in melb thats got one, mgfe. i paid 150 for mine and its in real good condition

any machine shop that can do line boring will be able to machine the rear housing, ie cylinder head repair places. i just took the vf12 and the vj11 rear housing to the guy and sed make this fit. there was a few things he needed to do, deepen and widen the bore then remachine the bell mouth. i also dremeled out the wastegate as much as i could. really its not that hard or expensive to do, cost me $300 all up, and once the rear housing fits its just as easy as putting ur stock turbo back on
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Old 7-24-09, 7:58   #97 (permalink)
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that's good to hear dude. I'll give him a PM as I am interested in this mod, after deciding to keep my car. The only thing I'm worried about is the blade clearance from the bore. Did you give him any specs or does anyone know the actual clearances? It's probably posted a few pages back so I'll read the entire thread again

mx_masta has certainly started something here...
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Old 7-24-09, 8:48   #98 (permalink)
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im pretty sure the smaller the clearance the better so the exhaust gases spin the turbine rather than goin past it. i just gave the machinist both rear housings (vf12 and vj11) and the rest of the vf12 and he did the rest. i got mine done at CW Davis Cylinder Heads in Rowville, so if u take it to him he'll know wat to do
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Old 7-24-09, 16:29   #99 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by texr6 View Post

texr6, nice set-up. You might want to consider switching the position of your inter cooler pipes, heat rises and you've got the hotter pipe at the bottom which would heat the whole intercooler up.
If you switch the two pipes you will notice that the bottom of the intercooler will be much cooler then the top right after a good run. With your current set up the intercooler is most likely heating up evenly causing the air going to the TB to be warmer then it should/could be.

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Old 7-25-09, 1:55   #100 (permalink)
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wouldn't make much diff. the air passes thru my cooler horizontally back and forth unlike the stock one where the air comes in at the top and goes down thru the core so rising hot air wont really affect it that much.

more importantly it fits better this way as i only needed a 2" 180 degree bend, a 2" 90 degree bend and a 2.5" 90 degree bend
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Old 7-25-09, 20:58   #101 (permalink)
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Youv'e probably already been told this but I've found epoxy adhesive like araldite to be the best at holding the VAF lid.

Tried super-glue and various silicone sealants but they didn't last long.

Last edited by mx_masta : 7-25-09 at 21:38.

VF12 - VJ11 hybrid http://www.mx6.com/forums/1g-mx6-for...ic-inside.html 5 1/4" VDO splits in custom door trims http://www.mx6.com/forums/1g-mx6-gen...cs-inside.html, 12" sub in custom boot/trunk http://www.mx6.com/forums/1g-mx6-gen...cs-inside.html, 2.5" cat back, 18"x12"x3" FMIC.
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Old 7-25-09, 21:07   #102 (permalink)
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lol, i araldited the crap outta it before i put the tape on it, went for a quick spin and it blew straight off, none of the glue even stuck to the afm. i might make up a holder bracket or a metal lid or somethin for it. when i put a bypass valve in it should hold better, it probs doesnt like the flutter haha
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Old 7-25-09, 21:37   #103 (permalink)
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How long did you leave the adhesive to set before driving it?

It takes 24 hours to achive full cure.

VF12 - VJ11 hybrid http://www.mx6.com/forums/1g-mx6-for...ic-inside.html 5 1/4" VDO splits in custom door trims http://www.mx6.com/forums/1g-mx6-gen...cs-inside.html, 12" sub in custom boot/trunk http://www.mx6.com/forums/1g-mx6-gen...cs-inside.html, 2.5" cat back, 18"x12"x3" FMIC.
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Old 7-26-09, 8:10   #104 (permalink)
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yeh i read the instructions and let it dry for a day n a bit, still didnt stick. it was only the 5 minute drying stuff so maybe the proper aryldite would work better
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