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Old 5-9-08, 18:40   #16 (permalink)
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Looks be be a stainless flange you're welding to. Best to get it red hot before you weld if you are using standard thickness mild steel exhaust pipe.

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Old 5-9-08, 18:49   #17 (permalink)
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Quote:
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Looks be be a stainless flange you're welding to. Best to get it red hot before you weld if you are using standard thickness mild steel exhaust pipe.
its a chrome plated mild steel one...ironically they were cheaper than just plain steel..go figure.

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Old 5-9-08, 20:32   #18 (permalink)
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Eh. you should see my welding! lol Its awful! I swear, probably worst than your stick handling.

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Old 5-9-08, 21:59   #19 (permalink)
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Any chance of you making another one of those flanges? (the manifold flange) or how about just making a copy of the template and sending that my way? Or scanning it and turning it into a pdf for others to use? Fred can help you turn it into a pdf I think.

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Old 5-9-08, 22:18   #20 (permalink)
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Yeah, its on my list of things to do....I was going to get a mate of mine to cad it up, but he has been in Afghanistan...

I want to do at least one off the cad to make sure that it fits....I have a feeling that one of the holes I drilled in my manifold is off centre, and I'd hate to carry that mistake thru....but I have another manifold here to use as a template that hasn't been [fizzle]ed...i'll draw it up for 8mm holes then open them up to 10 like mine....I'll do drawings of both 8 and 10 so that people can use either.

I was planning on doing some at the laser cutter along with some FE3 flanges, but thats been delayed by the Vf34 fitting.

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Old 5-9-08, 22:34   #21 (permalink)
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That would be awesome if you could. Thats really the only thing holding me up from installing the VF39 that I have. I had/have a flange that I had welded to the stock manifold but I have a feeling it won't hold up in the long run (or maybe even short run) and I also have a stock manifold that I could use with a good design like yours. I have the exhaust flange all ready and I have piping for the downpipe but before this I didnt have a second daily driver and I knew I'd need Ca smog (due in Aug) so I knew that any mods that I did would have to be put back to stock before that. So my tentative plan now that I have a DC2 GSR is to smog the MX6 and then start with everything I've been holding off on doing. I figured I could kill the existing engine trialing megasquirt and the VF39 and have another engine that I am building seriously that wouldnt have to be a gunnea pig later. The new engine will have Pauter rods as well as Wiseco pistons.

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Old 5-9-08, 22:43   #22 (permalink)
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Yeah, its on my list of things to do....I was going to get a mate of mine to cad it up, but he has been in Afghanistan...
If you can trace the flange upto grid paper or just plain paper with o/all dimensions.
Or just paint edit your original flange pic with a couple of accurate dimensions like bore diameter and overall length. Edit I just checked your original photos no good it needs to be from dead above.
I can model and draw that up in no time.

You would be suprised how accurate you can model from a photo if you have a couple of overall dim's to go off. (Within 0.1mm with a good clear photo, if you have a reference dim accurate to 0.1 that is)

Last edited by mx_masta : 5-9-08 at 22:47.

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Old 5-10-08, 0:05   #23 (permalink)
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Hey, what gauge steel did you use for the piping? and what gauge is best to use for it?
I'm curious to know if it will cause the pipe to be glowing red hot when driven normally, hitting occasional boost?
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Old 5-10-08, 3:29   #24 (permalink)
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Quote:
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You would be suprised how accurate you can model from a photo if you have a couple of overall dim's to go off. (Within 0.1mm with a good clear photo, if you have a reference dim accurate to 0.1 that is)
Agreed, but, the photo is best taken from far away with some zoom to keep the light parallel :-)

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Old 5-10-08, 3:49   #25 (permalink)
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Yeah but if it's a flat surface like a flange it doesn't make much difference.

Laying flat on the floor taken from standing height is fine.

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Old 5-10-08, 4:05   #26 (permalink)
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usually if i'm scaling from a photo, i use a sheet of printer paper under it and a ruler in the photo somewhere if i cant see the paper edges. you can use the white edges of the paper to skew/warp out any distortion and you know the dimensions of the sheet paper. never had a problem with this method before.

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Old 5-10-08, 11:38   #27 (permalink)
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I agree, standing is fine. What I meant was don't use macro mode :-)

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Old 5-10-08, 13:03   #28 (permalink)
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Are you forgetting that most people have LCD screens? Tracing the image will ruin your screen if you arent careful!

































I'm kidding.

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Old 5-16-08, 1:26   #29 (permalink)
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I gave up on the pipe that I was trying to weld myself...

I started a new one, this time I've only tacked together and it will professionally welded!

Here is how its come up so far :







This is about as far as I can get without jacking the car up and cutting into the existing pipe.
That will be the moment of truth I will see how accurate my measurements are.
However I need one more mandrel bend to complete that bit, so I'll have this piece welded, see how it comes up, check the fit, smooth out some of the welds...while the bend arrives in the mail.

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Old 5-16-08, 1:28   #30 (permalink)
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whats the hole in the side for?

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