MX6.com User Control Panel


Go Back   MX6.com > 1G MX6 (88-92) > 1G MX6 General > 1G MX6 Forced Induction

       
Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
Old 6-22-08, 15:13   #1 (permalink)
New Member
  Total: 10 Power: 0
 
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Victoria, BC, Canada
Age: 20
iTrader: (0)
Greetings with another boost gauge question...

First off, i'd like to say how amazing this community is, i've been able to put off posting my first thread for quite some time now using the search. I've already checked the codes my engine was throwing, identified them, cleaned my EGR valve, ordered and changed my shifter bushings, as well as a handful of other miscellaneous things. The amount of knowledge you members bring and make available on this website is nothing short of amazing.

I recently bought a 89 MX-6 GT for $500, 300k on it. I'm so pleased with the car, but it definitely has it's issues. I'm randomly getting boost cut at 4k +, usually in 3rd gear or higher.

Today i had planned on installing a boost gauge i bought off a buddy at work, I've never installed one before. This is what the fitting at the back looks like. (My apologies for my pictures, can't find the cord for my digital camera so the cell phone is all i can use.) I went and bought a plastic 1/8" T, and 4 feet of 1/8" vacuum line from the local parts supplier.

I have 3 basic questions. The first is relating to the spot in the firewall to run the vacuum line through. I have searched and searched, and from what i understand, underneath the clutch master cylinder there should be a rubber grommet that is easily seen and should pop right out with a screwdriver. I see no such grommet near the cylinder, and I can't feel one underneath. The only thing i can find is a hole in the heat insulation about 3/4" wide, but it is solid metal and i would have to drill. Can anybody help me out with locating this hole, either inside the cabin or the engine bay?

Second, I'm wondering if the vacuum line i bought will be sufficient to hold boost and vacuum without collapsing. It is the solid rubber kind, also used for windshield washer fluid i believe, not the kind with polyester cords running through it.

And Third, I've heard all this talk about nylon hose that runs directly from the back of the boost gauge to the vacuum line. I'm really clueless about this, and had planned to just clamp the vacuum hose directly to the back of the boost gauge. Can somebody fill me in as to why this isn't a good idea?

Thanks in advance guys, this forum's amazing.
boost addict is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 7-3-08, 11:48   #2 (permalink)
All aboard the B& V&
  Total: 1683 Power: 5
 
Zach's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location:
Age: 32
iTrader: (6)
Welcome to MX6.com, enjoy your stay.
Zach is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 7-3-08, 12:10   #3 (permalink)
MX6.com Supporter - Click Here for Information im back from BAN camp
  Total: 342 Power: 4
 
maffatato15's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: endwell, NY, USA
Age: 22
iTrader: (3)
Quote:
Originally Posted by boost addict View Post



I have 3 basic questions. The first is relating to the spot in the firewall to run the vacuum line through. I have searched and searched, and from what i understand, underneath the clutch master cylinder there should be a rubber grommet that is easily seen and should pop right out with a screwdriver. I see no such grommet near the cylinder, and I can't feel one underneath. The only thing i can find is a hole in the heat insulation about 3/4" wide, but it is solid metal and i would have to drill. Can anybody help me out with locating this hole, either inside the cabin or the engine bay?

If you see that metal hole, then you arent looking high enough from inside the cabin. The grommet is way up, near the fuses and relays that are under the dash. Im not sure if anyone has taken any pictures of the exact location but i have a free min so ill run out and take a quick pic for you.


As for the boost cut its most likely because there is either a boost controller installed, an upgraded exhaust or a leak someone where in the intercooler piping.

1991 lxt
1989 mx6 GT - Daily driver and project car
Zombie chip, 2.5 inch turbo back exhaust, aluminum hard pipes, blitz BOV, 8.8 mm Accel 300+ ferro-spiral race wires, blaster 2 coil, intrax lowering springs, factory rear strut bar
maffatato15 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 7-3-08, 12:25   #4 (permalink)
MX6.com Supporter - Click Here for Information im back from BAN camp
  Total: 342 Power: 4
 
maffatato15's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: endwell, NY, USA
Age: 22
iTrader: (3)
alright here you go. I hope this helps.

This is to the left of the clutch pedal inside and way up next to the relays.


Just follow my red amp wire and the white vacuum line.



Here is the location in the engine bay.

1991 lxt
1989 mx6 GT - Daily driver and project car
Zombie chip, 2.5 inch turbo back exhaust, aluminum hard pipes, blitz BOV, 8.8 mm Accel 300+ ferro-spiral race wires, blaster 2 coil, intrax lowering springs, factory rear strut bar
maffatato15 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 7-3-08, 16:47   #5 (permalink)
  Total: 226 Power: 2
 
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: perth, Australia
Age: 31
iTrader: (0)
Or if you have Air Conditioning the drain hose grommet is perfect.

Look on the underside of the dash on the passenger side. It's the little hose coming out of the A/C box and going through the firewall.

VF12 - VJ11 hybrid http://www.mx6.com/forums/1g-mx6-for...ic-inside.html 5 1/4" VDO splits in custom door trims http://www.mx6.com/forums/1g-mx6-gen...cs-inside.html, 12" sub in custom boot/trunk http://www.mx6.com/forums/1g-mx6-gen...cs-inside.html, 2.5" cat back, 18"x12"x3" FMIC.
mx_masta is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 7-3-08, 21:52   #6 (permalink)
New Member
  Total: 10 Power: 0
 
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Victoria, BC, Canada
Age: 20
iTrader: (0)
Maffatatto, the hole that you went through I also noticed, but it's completely solid on my car. You didn't have to drill through it at all? I've been trying to drill through the hole underneath, as it's *slightly* easier to work a drill at. If you're looking at the master cylinder from inside the cabin, it's to the bottom left of it, directly down from the hole you went through (It's that black rubber circle between the red and white wires on your first pic). I'm afraid I'm actually going to have to tear apart the dash just to be able to get a drill up in there.

mx_masta, my gt does have A/C, but is the reading on the gauge going to suffer by running such a long hose from one side of the car to the other and back?
boost addict is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 7-3-08, 23:32   #7 (permalink)
MX6.com Supporter - Click Here for Information im back from BAN camp
  Total: 342 Power: 4
 
maffatato15's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: endwell, NY, USA
Age: 22
iTrader: (3)
thats weird. I have had a 91 mx6 and now an 89 and both have had rubber grommets there.

1991 lxt
1989 mx6 GT - Daily driver and project car
Zombie chip, 2.5 inch turbo back exhaust, aluminum hard pipes, blitz BOV, 8.8 mm Accel 300+ ferro-spiral race wires, blaster 2 coil, intrax lowering springs, factory rear strut bar
maffatato15 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 7-4-08, 6:35   #8 (permalink)
  Total: 226 Power: 2
 
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: perth, Australia
Age: 31
iTrader: (0)
Quote:
mx_masta, my gt does have A/C, but is the reading on the gauge going to suffer by running such a long hose from one side of the car to the other and back?
I wouldn't think so with such small tubing the difference in the response of the gauge would be hard to pick.

Even if you had to add another half a metre the difference in tube volume would only be about 16cc.

VF12 - VJ11 hybrid http://www.mx6.com/forums/1g-mx6-for...ic-inside.html 5 1/4" VDO splits in custom door trims http://www.mx6.com/forums/1g-mx6-gen...cs-inside.html, 12" sub in custom boot/trunk http://www.mx6.com/forums/1g-mx6-gen...cs-inside.html, 2.5" cat back, 18"x12"x3" FMIC.
mx_masta is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 7-4-08, 11:27   #9 (permalink)
MX6.com Supporter - Click Here for Information All lies lead to a truth.
  Total: 770 Power: 3
 
defiler's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Coon Rapids, MN, USA
Age: 24
iTrader: (9)
Ive owned 8 MX6/PRobes and thats the same hole Ive gone thru on all of them. They all had a gasket there (Or had a hole where the gasket used to be)



I dont like using the AC hole because its too far away. Thats a lot more line considering the source is right next to the hole near the brake booster/

-Sometimes you have to lie to find out what the truth is....
89MX6 GT 4WS
90 Probe GT
Quote:
If people want to be spoon-fed info, not search, and feel all happy-go-lucky and live in a nice Utopia, then thats what PP is around for.
defiler is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 7-4-08, 12:38   #10 (permalink)
  Total: 825 Power: 5
 
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: canada
Age: 34
iTrader: (0)
Quote:
Originally Posted by defiler View Post
Ive owned 8 MX6/PRobes and thats the same hole Ive gone thru on all of them. They all had a gasket there (Or had a hole where the gasket used to be)



I dont like using the AC hole because its too far away. Thats a lot more line considering the source is right next to the hole near the brake booster/

Believe it or not the holes around the clutch slave that have the rubber grommets in them are NOT on every MX6, all the 626's have them and the MX6's with vin# starting with J have them, but my US built 89 mx-6 gt, nor does the white 89 GT I sold to Rob (use to be GTboi's) also US built So some US built MX6's dont have the holes.
I figure these holes are for right hand drive set-up so only cars built in plants that put out both left and right hand drives have the hole.

My 89 GT also came with AC which eliminates two other useful grommets on the passenger side.

For the SDS EIC and Boost gauge I passed them through the main engine harness grommet.
For the Wide-band I removed the block off plate for the Automatic shifter cables just behind the ECU, 2 10mm nuts hold it in place, you undo it under the dash, there is a plastic cover that pops off to expose the nut's, then you have a metal plate with a piece of rubber on it, remove the rubber from the metal, drill a hole in the metal plate and plastic cover large enough to pass what you want to through, then cut a small x in that spot in the rubber so you can slide things through. To protect what ever you run through the plate from chaffing just put a short piece of rubber hose (gas line, coolant line, vacuum hose... what ever is close to the right size) over the wires or boost gauge hose where it passes through the fire wall

Then finally for the boost controller (After a confusing search for the non existing rubber grommet net to the clutch slave that I used on many other F2/F2T's) I had to brake down and drill a hole in the fire wall.

Myself I T the boost gauge into the vacuum line going to the Fuel Pressure Regulator that way I see the how many pounds of boost the FPR is reacting to .

http://www.cardomain.com/id/mazdacarnage
BUILD IT, BEAT IT, BREAK IT, REBUILD IT, BEAT IT MORE, BREAK IT AGAIN, BUILD IT BETTER, BEAT IT THE MOST AND ?
Mazda Carnage is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 7-4-08, 12:46   #11 (permalink)
All aboard the B& V&
  Total: 1683 Power: 5
 
Zach's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location:
Age: 32
iTrader: (6)
My GT's VIN starts with a "1" and I have the rubber grommet as well...so who in the hell knows why some have it and some don't...lol
Zach is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 7-4-08, 13:58   #12 (permalink)
MX6.com Supporter - Click Here for Information im back from BAN camp
  Total: 342 Power: 4
 
maffatato15's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: endwell, NY, USA
Age: 22
iTrader: (3)
yeah i have an 89 GT and a 91 lx and both have the grommets there. Both also start the vin with "1"

1991 lxt
1989 mx6 GT - Daily driver and project car
Zombie chip, 2.5 inch turbo back exhaust, aluminum hard pipes, blitz BOV, 8.8 mm Accel 300+ ferro-spiral race wires, blaster 2 coil, intrax lowering springs, factory rear strut bar
maffatato15 is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply



Thread Tools

Posting Permissions
New Threads
Post Replies
Post Attachments
Edit Your Posts

vB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 1:00.

Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.6.8
Copyright ©2000 - 2008, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Content Relevant URLs by vBSEO 3.1.0
© Copyright 2000-2006, MX6.com
MX6.com is in no way affiliated to Mazda Motor Corp.
All views expressed in this site are the personal opinion
of the author and not necessarily the owners of MX6.com.
MX6.com is sponsored, in part, by NuDatum Software
  • AutoForums.com
  • Truck
  • European
  • Import
  • Domestic
  • Manufacturer

AutoForums.com is the premier network of enthusiast-owned enthusiast-operated automotive communities.
We operate more than 100 automotive forums where our users consult peers for shopping information and advice, and share experiences and opinions as a community.

Visit AutoForums.com today.

For advertising information, please visit our AutoForums.com website and Contact Us, or send an email message to sales@autoforums.com.