Besides lack of welding skill, I'm curious why not? There's plenty of room.
I'd thought of that before, but thought if i'm gonna do that, why not just do a ram horn style, and run it down.....
Theres lots of room to run it down, and less chance of burning the hood, haveing the turbo even closer to the hood.
I've seen it happen before, and I wouldn't be willing to ruin a tri-stage paint job, due to stupidity.
Team DISPLACEMENT REPLACEMENT 1993 B2200 F2T SDS t3t4 "beater". 1993 B2200 Stock, mint, waiting for more power. 1989 MX6 Turbo It will be alive again next year, and runnin 12's
im pretty sure most think the stock manifold is well designed....... and can probably handle all the f2 can throw at it. even large turbo's fit if you just use a smaller cooilng fan. so why do more work than you need to?
besides, welding on a t3/ihi/mitsu flange is cheap and easy, just like most f2 owners
i've always wondered why people don't put the turbo backwards and the the exhaust coming down on the non a/c side. would also make more sense for people with a large fmic.
The stock turbo (or any turbo for that matter on the stock exhaust manifold) or any exhaust manifold has the turbo hanging off the ex man with little or no support underneath. It's heavy, and those 6 studs don't do a whole lot in an aluminum head.
With a top mount- I'm talking a U shaped (use your head dummies) exhaust manifold in which case you could locate the turbo anywhere you want for height and have zero issues with the hood. Proper oil drainage is about it. You could anchor it to much more including the block and it would be much more stable. One thing you would have to worry about is how you anchor it and be thoughtful of it being too rigid and breakign welds. Other than that you'd be golden.
Make your primaries as long or as short as needed and compensate for possible lag using smaller diameter piping. If done correctly with some thought this can used with our 12v sohc stump puller and not have ridiculous lag.
As for burned hoods- as said you could locate the turbo as high or low as you need to and if you really wanted to you could buy a heat shield for the exhaust side that is available anywhere and especiial eBay on the cheap. No burned hoods even if you have a huge GT40 like many many mnay mnay mnay properly built Hondas with sick paint jobs to boot.
Come on guys use your heads ^ You can do anything you want if you put some thought into it!
The problem here is being stuck in a box and never travelling elsewhere. With a top mount you'd have so many more advantages for pretty much everything. Hell you (WE) could even do a side mount like plenty of S2000 turbos ex mans are ran every day.
You really can do anything you want as long as you take into account bends and angles, keep things smooth and fluid and travelling well, move only what is necessary, change things around that are much wiser elsewhere, have fun, and do what you want:
I think the engine bay heat might be increased running a top mounted turbo and the exhaust would be even longer then it is, many cars have the turbo between the block and fire wall. I guess it keeps the intake manifold cooler having it in in the air flow behind the rad, also there exhausts are shorter (flow better), but there is allot more engine heat, so I guess top mount wouldn't matter on our cars, Except they are not Dohc which means our plugs and wires aren't in the middle of the head, How would our pug wires do with a turbo right next to them (some sort of heat shielding would definitely be required). Then the coolant and oil return lines will have to be run/extended around to manifold to reach the fittings bellow the manifold, this would probably require using braided lines instead of the rubber ones you can use when mounting the upgraded turbo bellow the manifold.
The F2T block is better set up to run the turbo under the manifold then above.
When the guy with the shop next door gave me a CT26 (the hot side housing on the CT26 is huge and for no reason) for a brief minute I though of cutting a stock manifold at the flanges, flipping the manifold over and welding it back to the flanges, then cutting a whole in a hood and installing a Subaru hood scoop to house the giant ugly turbo (NOT ON ANY OF MY CARS, OF COURSE!). But then I did a bit of reading up on the CT26 and came to my senses (Sorry Larken).
A better question would be why do those running stand alone, larger turbo's, custom manifolds .... not flip the turbo around ? -Intake on passenger side, this would make plumbing a front mount intercooler much easier and more efficient. This also makes fitting larger turbo's with internal waste gates easier (With cooling fan modification).
Even those running a Vaf (me included) can untape the wire harness at the Vaf plug wires and along the fire wall, tape up the harness without those wires, and then run the Vaf wires and plug to the front passenger side.
The point that a lot us are making is that with the F2T there is no need for any of what you just posted.
With cars such as HONDAs' which are not factory turbocharged a manifold must be made, bought or modified to fit a turbo.
And when forced to make changes people will come up with many different solutions.
Eg, side mount, top mount, rear mount (HA)
The F2T already has a well made (not perfect though) manifold that will probably never crack.
And can be modified to suit many different turbo's.
The only compromise of any real concern on the F2T turbo system that I can see is the oil return line.
Which with a large turbo can be dealt with by dumping the return back into the sump instead.
Basically the stock F2T manifold has it won over fancy stainless steel or cast elbow manifolds.
In function, durability & cost. The only thing it really lacks in is looks.
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