Comments on: Clutch Removal/Installation

**SixSick6** · 6-17-04, 21:54

This thread is for comments on the How To on: Clutch Removal/Installation-My part numbers will be for the GT's

http://www.mx6.com/forums/showthread.php?t=99032 (1st GEN PROJECT: Clutch Removal/Installation)

**SixSick6** · 6-18-04, 1:03

Now you are at the point of giving the outside a good cleaning, cleaning the inside of the bellhousing of contaminated dirty grease which can ruin the throwout bearing, fixing that shift fork you've needed to fix, re-sealing the two halves so fluid won't leak, or installing that LSD that's been sitting under your bed collecting dust.

Pressure plate and clutch assembly ready to come out.

As you can see, there is alot to work around.

This is as high as I lifted my car. And it worked fine for transaxle removal.

145K disk

I wonder why it was slipping?

Still, not too shaby for 145K, and considering a leaking rear mains seal as well.

Flywheel ready to come out, an impact wrench is your friend on this one.

Always start with a resurfaced flywheel beforehand.

Ahhhhh, the rear main seal and pilot bearing. You'll need a slide hammer to remove the pilot bearing and should have bought an OE rear main seal before starting the clutch, they are relatively cheap at Mazda.

If you've gotten THIS FAR......It's Miller Time....who cares if it's only 10am

**SixSick6** · 6-18-04, 1:32

Use SST's (special service tools) for the axle input section if you are going to be moving the tranny around. I used two pieces of wooden dowel rod to hold the spider gear in place as shown in the picture.

Nice and clean so it won't slip out of your hands, and, it's always nice to clean things before you put them back in.

Now is a good time to refurbish your axles.
http://www.mx6.com/forums/showthread.php?t=98744 (1st gen PROJECT: Rebuilding Your Axles)

Remove the rear main seal, pilot bearing, metal plate behind the flywheel and clean well with brake cleaner. You won't be replacing the gasket behind the rear main seal bracket unless you also plan on removing and re-sealing the oil pan as well, notice that there are two 10mm bolts from the oil pan into the bracket itself.

I wonder why the seal was leaking?

Ahhh, a brand new seal.

Rear main seal and pilot bearing installed.

When you install the rear main seal, you should use some permatex super sealant. It isnt an RTV thick type sealant, rather a thin water like sealant for making paper thin gaskets. It comes in a can with a brush and looks similar to a rubber cement container. You want to put a SMALL amount around the outside diameter of the seal and a a small around of grease on the inside diameter of the seal.

Pressure plate and disk installed and ready for transaxle.

Throwout bearing installed.

Installation is the opposite of removal, you don't HAVE to do it the way I did it. There are plenty of options as far as WHAT to take off, I chose to take everything that I could, but that doesnt mean that you have to as well.

Ahhhh, now it's looking better and almost ready to be fired up.

Make sure that you break the clutch in before going crazy on it, otherwise you'll be doing it again.

**SixSick6** · 6-18-04, 13:24

Allright I'm done [~]

Jon · 6-19-04, 0:07

Quote:

Originally Posted by SixSick6

You're going to be working mainly on the passsenger side

Driver side you mean.

Also, you skipped the section on removing the driver side crossmember, unless you have that elusive "Tranny Shinker" SST.

**SixSick6** · 6-19-04, 1:06

Quote:

Originally Posted by FlySwat

Driver side you mean.

It was 2:30 am when I was writing that:cheese:

Quote:

Originally Posted by FlySwat

Also, you skipped the section on removing the driver side crossmember

Ya know, I thought about that too. I kept thinking to remember to add in that the crossmember comes out as a whole assembly and never wrote it in there.

Quote:

Originally Posted by FlySwat

unless you have that elusive "Tranny Shinker" SST.

Is that anything like a "Tranny Shrinker"?

Jon · 6-19-04, 1:30

No No...the tranny shrinker is for helping certian gender confused people fit in

paintballpro69 · 6-20-04, 16:20

will this work the same for the 88 mazda lx?

**SixSick6** · 6-21-04, 1:32

yes.....

**Mx6MaZTer** · 3-28-05, 21:20

Very good write up sick... I cant believe I have never seen this thread!!! I bookmarked it for when I buy my DxD 6_Puck....

Honestly I would have never braced the engine on the top and probably would've died. Thanks for the heads up

I have impact tools and This summer I'm doing this in my driveway.

ADAM

**SixSick6** · 3-28-05, 22:04

No problem, good luck

SleepCounter · 3-28-05, 22:49

Nice shop.

**jiffy6969** · 12-21-05, 17:51

Nice write up...I'm going to attempt it during my Christmas break.

Question....to anyone/everyone including sick.....

I am pretty much considering a stock clutch on this car--I want to sell it later.....but I wouldn't mind having a little more bite....is there such a thing?

My 1991 MX6 GT has an RX7 Racing Clutch...and you have to try HARD take off without at least a few chirps (and I know how to drive a standard). I just want a "small step up".

**pick_arse** · 12-21-05, 18:10

Ive done this procedure an honest 6 times on my 91 protege and its sooo identical its crazy. It makes me love being a mazda owner. I just took the tranny out of my gt and it took well under 4 hours. I bet the next time it will be out in 2 hours. Now if i could just get my parts and get this sucker back together.

**SixSick6** · 12-21-05, 22:03

I've taken an MX6 tranny out in around 45 minutes before (at the junkyard). As far as the stock Exedy, I've had the same clutch since this install and recently put down roughly 343 fpt at the crank. It still doesn't slip.

6-17-04, 21:54	#1 (permalink)
SixSick6 Join Date: Sep 2001 Location: San Diego, CA, USA Age: 32 iTrader: (2)	Clutch Removal/Installation-My part numbers will be for the GT's This thread is for comments on the How To on: Clutch Removal/Installation-My part numbers will be for the GT's http://www.mx6.com/forums/showthread.php?t=99032 (1st GEN PROJECT: Clutch Removal/Installation) Last edited by Panther37 : 2-4-05 at 23:38.

6-18-04, 13:24	#4 (permalink)
SixSick6 Join Date: Sep 2001 Location: San Diego, CA, USA Age: 32 iTrader: (2)	Allright I'm done [~] Last edited by Panther37 : 2-4-05 at 23:40. Reason: Asking for Karma

6-20-04, 16:20	#8 (permalink)
paintballpro69 Join Date: Apr 2004 Location: , USA Age: 21 iTrader: (0)	will this work the same for the 88 mazda lx?
	no signature

3-28-05, 21:20	#10 (permalink)
Mx6MaZTer Join Date: Jul 2003 Location: Cp McKeesport, PA, USA iTrader: (0)	Very good write up sick... I cant believe I have never seen this thread!!! I bookmarked it for when I buy my DxD 6_Puck.... Honestly I would have never braced the engine on the top and probably would've died. Thanks for the heads up I have impact tools and This summer I'm doing this in my driveway. ADAM
	MY Stage 4 TURBO http://www.mx6.com/forums/showthread.php?t=128643

12-21-05, 17:51	#13 (permalink)
jiffy6969 Join Date: Sep 2000 Location: Dallas Texas Age: 32 iTrader: (0)	Nice write up...I'm going to attempt it during my Christmas break. Question....to anyone/everyone including sick..... I am pretty much considering a stock clutch on this car--I want to sell it later.....but I wouldn't mind having a little more bite....is there such a thing? My 1991 MX6 GT has an RX7 Racing Clutch...and you have to try HARD take off without at least a few chirps (and I know how to drive a standard). I just want a "small step up".
	CARS: 2007 Ford F-150 4x4, 4-door Lariat (bought new in 12/07). 2005 Black Toyota Corolla S, My 1991 MX6 GT is running pretty good, but needs all kinds of stuff. My daughter drives a 2001 Toyota Corolla S, 140k miles clocking miles as if she's a cross-country traveler. My 1991 Kawasaki Vulcan 1500 is loud and proud, but needs some attention.

6-18-04, 1:03	#2 (permalink)
SixSick6 Join Date: Sep 2001 Location: San Diego, CA, USA Age: 32 iTrader: (2)	Now you are at the point of giving the outside a good cleaning, cleaning the inside of the bellhousing of contaminated dirty grease which can ruin the throwout bearing, fixing that shift fork you've needed to fix, re-sealing the two halves so fluid won't leak, or installing that LSD that's been sitting under your bed collecting dust. Pressure plate and clutch assembly ready to come out. As you can see, there is alot to work around. This is as high as I lifted my car. And it worked fine for transaxle removal. 145K disk I wonder why it was slipping? Still, not too shaby for 145K, and considering a leaking rear mains seal as well. Flywheel ready to come out, an impact wrench is your friend on this one. Always start with a resurfaced flywheel beforehand. Ahhhhh, the rear main seal and pilot bearing. You'll need a slide hammer to remove the pilot bearing and should have bought an OE rear main seal before starting the clutch, they are relatively cheap at Mazda. If you've gotten THIS FAR......It's Miller Time....who cares if it's only 10am

6-18-04, 1:32	#3 (permalink)
SixSick6 Join Date: Sep 2001 Location: San Diego, CA, USA Age: 32 iTrader: (2)	Use SST's (special service tools) for the axle input section if you are going to be moving the tranny around. I used two pieces of wooden dowel rod to hold the spider gear in place as shown in the picture. Nice and clean so it won't slip out of your hands, and, it's always nice to clean things before you put them back in. Now is a good time to refurbish your axles. http://www.mx6.com/forums/showthread.php?t=98744 (1st gen PROJECT: Rebuilding Your Axles) Remove the rear main seal, pilot bearing, metal plate behind the flywheel and clean well with brake cleaner. You won't be replacing the gasket behind the rear main seal bracket unless you also plan on removing and re-sealing the oil pan as well, notice that there are two 10mm bolts from the oil pan into the bracket itself. I wonder why the seal was leaking? Ahhh, a brand new seal. Rear main seal and pilot bearing installed. When you install the rear main seal, you should use some permatex super sealant. It isnt an RTV thick type sealant, rather a thin water like sealant for making paper thin gaskets. It comes in a can with a brush and looks similar to a rubber cement container. You want to put a SMALL amount around the outside diameter of the seal and a a small around of grease on the inside diameter of the seal. Pressure plate and disk installed and ready for transaxle. Throwout bearing installed. Installation is the opposite of removal, you don't HAVE to do it the way I did it. There are plenty of options as far as WHAT to take off, I chose to take everything that I could, but that doesnt mean that you have to as well. Ahhhh, now it's looking better and almost ready to be fired up. Make sure that you break the clutch in before going crazy on it, otherwise you'll be doing it again.

6-19-04, 1:30	#7 (permalink)
Jon Banned Join Date: Feb 2002 Location: Redmond, WA, USA iTrader: (0)	No No...the tranny shrinker is for helping certian gender confused people fit in

6-21-04, 1:32	#9 (permalink)
SixSick6 Join Date: Sep 2001 Location: San Diego, CA, USA Age: 32 iTrader: (2)	yes.....

3-28-05, 22:04	#11 (permalink)
SixSick6 Join Date: Sep 2001 Location: San Diego, CA, USA Age: 32 iTrader: (2)	No problem, good luck

3-28-05, 22:49	#12 (permalink)
SleepCounter Banned Join Date: Mar 2003 Location: Calgary, AB, Canada iTrader: (0)	Nice shop.

12-21-05, 18:10	#14 (permalink)
pick_arse Join Date: Aug 2005 Location: , Canada iTrader: (0)	Ive done this procedure an honest 6 times on my 91 protege and its sooo identical its crazy. It makes me love being a mazda owner. I just took the tranny out of my gt and it took well under 4 hours. I bet the next time it will be out in 2 hours. Now if i could just get my parts and get this sucker back together.

12-21-05, 22:03	#15 (permalink)
SixSick6 Join Date: Sep 2001 Location: San Diego, CA, USA Age: 32 iTrader: (2)	I've taken an MX6 tranny out in around 45 minutes before (at the junkyard). As far as the stock Exedy, I've had the same clutch since this install and recently put down roughly 343 fpt at the crank. It still doesn't slip.