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Old 6-25-07, 21:34   #1 (permalink)
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Turbo Boost Control Silonoid

my car is acting weird as hell and hitting fuel cut at low boost, its hitting fuel cut at 5psi when i pulled codes i got code 42 which my haynes manual says is my turbo boost control silonoid, where is that located on the car, i have a 90 pgt by the way

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Old 6-25-07, 21:44   #2 (permalink)
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Check TB boot and intercooler piping for any intake air leaks. The code 42 may have nothing to do with the actual boost cut. If the boost control solenoid were stuck shut you would just have lower boost, not fuel cut. If it were stuck open you would likely not even notice as that is its position most of the time. It may just be unplugged, it's located on the bottom of the turbo.

It is the "solenoid valve" in the pic below.

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Old 6-25-07, 22:02   #3 (permalink)
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so does every year gt have those? my car never had 1 when i bought it so i never put 1 on when i swapped turbo. my car idles fine and i can normally hear when i got a intake leak, ive had plenty of bad experince with intake leaks.

it wont boost over 5-6 psi even with my boost controller on. my egr is bad could this be the culprit? what would make me hit fuel cut at low boost?

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Old 6-25-07, 22:33   #4 (permalink)
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Yeah, every GT has one. I bet whoever owned the car before you, removed it. I don't think a bad EGR would cause you to not boost much. You're getting the CEL because the ECU is looking for a signal from the solenoid. Your best bet is to put one on.

As for the boost cut....

If you have a leak in one of the charge pipes, the boost is escaping and the turbo pushes harder to try and compensate for the loss of pressure. This pushes you past the limit and the ECU cuts you off. (I'm thinking since you don't have the solenoid attached, the ECU doesn't really know how much you're boosting and won't let you do what you want.) So get that put back on and try again.

Do like magik suggested and remove all of your intake and charge pipes. Visualy inspect for cracks and upon re-installation, if any were loose, they will now be tight.

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Old 6-26-07, 1:21   #5 (permalink)
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All bets are off until you reinstall the solenoid and clear the code. Your ECU is probably retarding timing as well.
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Old 6-26-07, 3:51   #6 (permalink)

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Quote:
Originally Posted by magik8 View Post
If the boost control solenoid were stuck shut you would just have lower boost, not fuel cut.
Sorry for hijack but ...

How do you shut the boost control solenoid? (Putting straight 12V to it? or the opposite?)
and
How low does it lower the boost pressure? (5PSI like in safe mode?)

I am interested as this would be a good option for me who want to limit the power of my F2T.

Peace
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PS: My bet is a boost leak for your problem. Usually people check and find no leak until they realize they didn't look close enough on some parts.

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Old 6-26-07, 19:08   #7 (permalink)
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im going to check better for intakes leaks,

when i hold the throttle steady sometimes out of nowhere it bogs out and i can see carbon shooting into the air in the rear view mirror,

yea my car never had a boost control silonoid when i bought it, so i thought maybe my year didnt have one. my freind has a spare one laying around so ill try that.

also maybe this would be why my ecu with a chip in it doesnt let the car run right, idles completely different and bogs out until the car is fully boosted, for some reason that ecu will not let me rev past 4 grand it just stops revving all togethor.
i have not tested that ecu on the car since my last turbo but im pretty sure it will do the exzact same

and thanks for the help guys

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Old 6-26-07, 20:09   #8 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NSXR View Post
Sorry for hijack but ...

How do you shut the boost control solenoid? (Putting straight 12V to it? or the opposite?)
I believe unplugging the solenoid will cause it to close. This means the wastegate actuator will see the full pressure coming from the turbo outlet hose and will close sooner (at a lower psi). I believe the ECU puts 12V to it to open the solenoid. When the solenoid opens it bleeds off some of the pressure that is presented at the wastegate actuator and hence makes the wastegate open later (at a higher psi).

Quote:
I am interested as this would be a good option for me who want to limit the power of my F2T.
See above - you could just unplug the solenoid but the ECU may retard the timing as it will see the solenoid open and not behave normally. Best solution if you want permanent "low boost" condition would be to remove the vacuum connections to the solenoid and directly connect the small hose on the turbo outlet to the wastegate actuator (remove the solenoid connection), and leave the solenoid only electrically connected (hanging loose) to make the ECU happy.
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Old 6-27-07, 5:00   #9 (permalink)
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I often wonder why I bother?

I made an entire thread on this.

http://www.mx6.com/forums/1g-faq-for...-solenoid.html (How To Test The Stock Boost/Wastgate Solenoid)

Last edited by SixSick6; 6-27-07 at 5:04..
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Old 6-27-07, 6:02   #10 (permalink)

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Great info thx.

This was more like a quick question/quick answer type of request ... sorry if I didn't use the search function.
Thx Magik8 for the quick answer.
Thx Sixsick6 for the detailed explanation.

Peace
NSXR

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Old 6-30-07, 21:53   #11 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Boostd1990Probe View Post
my car is acting weird as hell and hitting fuel cut at low boost, its hitting fuel cut at 5psi when i pulled codes i got code 42 which my haynes manual says is my turbo boost control silonoid, where is that located on the car, i have a 90 pgt by the way
by fuel cut do you mean it boggs down? check your spark plugs and cables, your gonna pull code 42 all the time because no solonoid but it would not have negative effects like you described. i have had no solonoid for over 3 years and been able to control my boost with a boost controller just fine.

its sounds like your engine is the limiter not the wastegate or the turbo...
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Old 6-30-07, 22:20   #12 (permalink)
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no i mean it hits fuel cut, it just stops and you hear the ding noise, like when the doors are open

it hits fuel cut at 5 psi i still have no clue why, i have a new egr coming in soon tho maybe it should help with something, at least get rid of the egr code

White 1990 Probe GT 10 PSI!!!!
Indiglo guages, 3 guage pillar pod
Turbo back, 4.5 inch muffler, 05 Tiburon rims
Angel eyes, Civic Short Throw, JL Audio W1 V2
10,000 MILES SINCE FULLREBUILD!!!!
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