so i got my alarm........but now

**4cylfun** · 5-17-08, 17:39

Ok this my second alarm i've installed ever. Seems to work fine except the door trigger doesn't seem to work. I hooked it up to the negative side for the red/white drivers door trigger. So possibly i need the postive wire coming from the viper alarm.............

but this one i am confused on. I did the parking lights on the switch. The big fat 12 gauge looking wire. Its white/green tracer. Well when the alarm activates my pro-sport gauges turn on and off. Well i noticed later that while driving down the road they are dead. They come on with the parking lights swtich but don't fade over. So i pretty much know whats up. But....

Should i hook up the parking lights switch to another wire instead of the direct wire from the turn switch. Cause it appears that without the parking lamps wire my gauges work just fine. I used the12volt.com for reference. I also know there are shops to do this, it was just easier to do this myself.

**SinCity** · 5-17-08, 17:55

No, you got the right wire. For the doors you need the negative trigger and the trunk was a positive trigger. I just put an alarm in my car not too long ago. You could try using one of the other negative trigger zones to see if it works then. Another possibility is your switch is corroded and needs to be cleaned.

EDIT: did you have to use a relay for your parking light flash?

**4cylfun** · 5-17-08, 18:08

no not actually. I bought it used from a friend and the only relay that was on it didn't actually go to anything. I just had a ground wire sticking out and a heavy green wire. I figured it was for remote start or something.

Do i need to get a relay then or how do fix it so my gauges run right again? And the door trigger is hooked up the way you said. Red/white wire just doesn't seem to set it off when its open. But maybe thats due to the parking lights thing like you said. It beeps, and then beeps once a few second later like something is wrong but of course with no manual and stuff i have no clue what its telling me. I just know its a viper.........650?

**4cylfun** · 5-17-08, 18:30

i did a bit of reading off the viper site. It calls that the bypass function, it ignores that zone and retries it again. So according to that everything is sorta fine. I still think my parking light wire is the problem. I also have a 3 pin door lock plug. Which is great cause i ordered some actuators. Except i have no idea what wire does what. Again i guess i'll have to do some more looking.

But the parking lights do flash so maybe i don't need a relay then. Either way somethin's not right and i can't put my finger on it.

**4cylfun** · 5-18-08, 13:19

so for the gauges i founda wire that got pulled from its connector. I went ahead and soldered the power and ground and checked the two taps and wrapped them up. All good, now the door trigger i found out as well with my trusty test light.

this is the wire you want, not the other fatter red and white.

**4cylfun** · 5-18-08, 13:20

alarm works perfect now. next weekend i'll work on painting and rigging up my door actuators.

**Jordan** · 5-18-08, 18:56

oooh door actuators. Im jealous. I want an alarm, auto start, auto doors bad

**4cylfun** · 5-18-08, 22:43

so most actuators i see online only have a 2 wire setup coming out of them. I assume one would be ground or are they supposed to go to a relay or something. I'm gonna do the rear 626 door lock trick but how do these work. I assume this is like a window motor where it reverses polarity but maybe i don't understand this right. Someone who has done this swap could you inlighten me?

**4cylfun** · 5-21-08, 21:08

still clueless how this door actuator system works. I woud assume the colors on the viper match to the colors on the actuators....... but how are the actuators grounded and ..........somebody with a viper or DEI system i'm sure you know how this works. Any help please PM me

**SinCity** · 5-22-08, 0:39

If the alarm you have doesn't have built in relays for door locks, you will need two relays. You should also have a relay for your light flash, as the output from the alarm is usually meant to be a low amperage output. Some of the more expensive alarms have relays built in, but the cheaper ones don't. The website you listed above (the12volt) has diagrams on how you should wire in your relays for your actuators. In the Mazda, you should only need one actuator for the driver's door, that is if the passenger door already locks/unlocks with the driver's door. You will want the two-wire actuators.

For running the actuator wires on my car I ran them through the rubber Molex that the wires that go to the door are run through. It can be a real PITA if you don't know the trick. The easiest way I've found is to unhook the harness inside the door and push it all out into the doorjam. You might need a couple small screwdrivers to unclip the Molex from the door and the doorjam. Once you have it all out you can try to fish the wires through the Molex. I usually spray some WD-40 into the Molex and run a metal rod through it. I then tape the wires I want to run through it to the rod. I WD-40 the wires and slide them through smooth as a hot knife through butter. No WD and the wires get hung up in there. You can then push the wires through the jam and they will come out above the fuse block. From there you can run the harness back into the door and clip the Molex back into its holes. Any questions, you can pm me.

Edit: If you have just two wires, one for lock and one for unlock, this is how you want to wire your relays. You want to wire like the one titled "Actuators, reverse polarity."
Car Security and Convenience, Power Door Locks, Multiple Wire Systems, Add Auto Lock/Unlock

**4cylfun** · 5-22-08, 7:20

got it down perfect man. Karma awarded. I think i'm ready to find some this weekend.

Seems this one doesn't need a relay for the light flash. There is already the big ass relay with it but like i said that's most likely for remote start and i dont' want to do that to my manual. I know it can be done but the odds it gets left in gear and i've done that one before not knowing it and it did start crawling up a hill. That bastard doesn't die evidentally. Not sure what else i would ever want to use that for but maybe i'll think of something someday.

**SinCity** · 5-22-08, 19:23

I have seen door actuators at Pep Boys Auto Parts out here.

**4cylfun** · 5-22-08, 21:05

i've seen them online, like ebay which is where i was thinking of getting them. Unless you spot a set at autozone or something for less than 30 bucks i'm goin ebay rought. Espicially since its to be used with my alarm. I pretty much just want the relays and actuators.

Think a 10Amp relay is too much? I'm not real sure what the current draw would be but i coudln't imagine it would be much, but still enough to lock door mechanisms.

**allmazda** · 5-22-08, 21:19

May not help you but the 88-91 Mazda 929 has door lock actuators. The set up was the same for the mx6 in that you could lock and unlock the doors with the lock knob and also has a lock switch on the window switches. I am looking for a window switch for one as it has the auto down feature built in the switch. I know that is not what you need but you may be able to use these actuators and get them from a junk yard for free. I think I have one if you want to see a pic. And I also have the wiring info on the 929.

**4cylfun** · 5-24-08, 5:32

i'm just gonna get new ones, the ones from the 626 would probably work fine but mine in my passenger side only "tries" to lock. You can press down and it makes the sound that its trying to lock, but teh lock comes back up. So i was gonna get a new set. That and i figured out how they work now. More or less a ground and then 2 signal wires. I figured thats what it was but i'll let you know more when i do in it another week or so.

Hell maybe even a diy

5-17-08, 17:39	#1 (permalink)
4cylfun Dedicated LX to GT Guy Join Date: May 2007 Location: Plainfield, IN, USA Age: 25 iTrader: (3)	so i got my alarm........but now Ok this my second alarm i've installed ever. Seems to work fine except the door trigger doesn't seem to work. I hooked it up to the negative side for the red/white drivers door trigger. So possibly i need the postive wire coming from the viper alarm............. but this one i am confused on. I did the parking lights on the switch. The big fat 12 gauge looking wire. Its white/green tracer. Well when the alarm activates my pro-sport gauges turn on and off. Well i noticed later that while driving down the road they are dead. They come on with the parking lights swtich but don't fade over. So i pretty much know whats up. But.... Should i hook up the parking lights switch to another wire instead of the direct wire from the turn switch. Cause it appears that without the parking lamps wire my gauges work just fine. I used the12volt.com for reference. I also know there are shops to do this, it was just easier to do this myself.
	'88 Mazda MX6 LX Manual Tranny with GT goodies and a custom paint job that i need to badly work on '74 Kawasaki S1-B 250 Triple 2 stroke And last the beater, the '91 Accord EX Coupe Auto w/ half a drop lol.

5-17-08, 17:55	#2 (permalink)
SinCity Join Date: May 2005 Location: Near Area 51, NV, USA Age: 31 iTrader: (1)	No, you got the right wire. For the doors you need the negative trigger and the trunk was a positive trigger. I just put an alarm in my car not too long ago. You could try using one of the other negative trigger zones to see if it works then. Another possibility is your switch is corroded and needs to be cleaned. EDIT: did you have to use a relay for your parking light flash?
	Currently have two 1988 MX-6 GT 5 speeds, both white, one stock, one not http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2565091 http://www.cardomain.com/ride/3117307 I support Joe Arpaio for President

5-17-08, 18:08	#3 (permalink)
4cylfun Dedicated LX to GT Guy Join Date: May 2007 Location: Plainfield, IN, USA Age: 25 iTrader: (3)	no not actually. I bought it used from a friend and the only relay that was on it didn't actually go to anything. I just had a ground wire sticking out and a heavy green wire. I figured it was for remote start or something. Do i need to get a relay then or how do fix it so my gauges run right again? And the door trigger is hooked up the way you said. Red/white wire just doesn't seem to set it off when its open. But maybe thats due to the parking lights thing like you said. It beeps, and then beeps once a few second later like something is wrong but of course with no manual and stuff i have no clue what its telling me. I just know its a viper.........650?
	'88 Mazda MX6 LX Manual Tranny with GT goodies and a custom paint job that i need to badly work on '74 Kawasaki S1-B 250 Triple 2 stroke And last the beater, the '91 Accord EX Coupe Auto w/ half a drop lol.

5-17-08, 18:30	#4 (permalink)
4cylfun Dedicated LX to GT Guy Join Date: May 2007 Location: Plainfield, IN, USA Age: 25 iTrader: (3)	i did a bit of reading off the viper site. It calls that the bypass function, it ignores that zone and retries it again. So according to that everything is sorta fine. I still think my parking light wire is the problem. I also have a 3 pin door lock plug. Which is great cause i ordered some actuators. Except i have no idea what wire does what. Again i guess i'll have to do some more looking. But the parking lights do flash so maybe i don't need a relay then. Either way somethin's not right and i can't put my finger on it.
	'88 Mazda MX6 LX Manual Tranny with GT goodies and a custom paint job that i need to badly work on '74 Kawasaki S1-B 250 Triple 2 stroke And last the beater, the '91 Accord EX Coupe Auto w/ half a drop lol.

5-18-08, 13:19	#5 (permalink)
4cylfun Dedicated LX to GT Guy Join Date: May 2007 Location: Plainfield, IN, USA Age: 25 iTrader: (3)	so for the gauges i founda wire that got pulled from its connector. I went ahead and soldered the power and ground and checked the two taps and wrapped them up. All good, now the door trigger i found out as well with my trusty test light. this is the wire you want, not the other fatter red and white.
	'88 Mazda MX6 LX Manual Tranny with GT goodies and a custom paint job that i need to badly work on '74 Kawasaki S1-B 250 Triple 2 stroke And last the beater, the '91 Accord EX Coupe Auto w/ half a drop lol.

5-18-08, 13:20	#6 (permalink)
4cylfun Dedicated LX to GT Guy Join Date: May 2007 Location: Plainfield, IN, USA Age: 25 iTrader: (3)	alarm works perfect now. next weekend i'll work on painting and rigging up my door actuators.
	'88 Mazda MX6 LX Manual Tranny with GT goodies and a custom paint job that i need to badly work on '74 Kawasaki S1-B 250 Triple 2 stroke And last the beater, the '91 Accord EX Coupe Auto w/ half a drop lol.

5-18-08, 18:56	#7 (permalink)
Jordan Join Date: Aug 2007 Location: Ft. Wayne, IN, USA iTrader: (0)	oooh door actuators. Im jealous. I want an alarm, auto start, auto doors bad
	'89 MX6 DX Bone Stock totaled 4/19/08 In the process of repairing totaled mx6. compnut21 fixed my MAZDA MX6

5-18-08, 22:43	#8 (permalink)
4cylfun Dedicated LX to GT Guy Join Date: May 2007 Location: Plainfield, IN, USA Age: 25 iTrader: (3)	so most actuators i see online only have a 2 wire setup coming out of them. I assume one would be ground or are they supposed to go to a relay or something. I'm gonna do the rear 626 door lock trick but how do these work. I assume this is like a window motor where it reverses polarity but maybe i don't understand this right. Someone who has done this swap could you inlighten me?
	'88 Mazda MX6 LX Manual Tranny with GT goodies and a custom paint job that i need to badly work on '74 Kawasaki S1-B 250 Triple 2 stroke And last the beater, the '91 Accord EX Coupe Auto w/ half a drop lol.

5-21-08, 21:08	#9 (permalink)
4cylfun Dedicated LX to GT Guy Join Date: May 2007 Location: Plainfield, IN, USA Age: 25 iTrader: (3)	still clueless how this door actuator system works. I woud assume the colors on the viper match to the colors on the actuators....... but how are the actuators grounded and ..........somebody with a viper or DEI system i'm sure you know how this works. Any help please PM me
	'88 Mazda MX6 LX Manual Tranny with GT goodies and a custom paint job that i need to badly work on '74 Kawasaki S1-B 250 Triple 2 stroke And last the beater, the '91 Accord EX Coupe Auto w/ half a drop lol.

5-22-08, 0:39	#10 (permalink)
SinCity Join Date: May 2005 Location: Near Area 51, NV, USA Age: 31 iTrader: (1)	If the alarm you have doesn't have built in relays for door locks, you will need two relays. You should also have a relay for your light flash, as the output from the alarm is usually meant to be a low amperage output. Some of the more expensive alarms have relays built in, but the cheaper ones don't. The website you listed above (the12volt) has diagrams on how you should wire in your relays for your actuators. In the Mazda, you should only need one actuator for the driver's door, that is if the passenger door already locks/unlocks with the driver's door. You will want the two-wire actuators. For running the actuator wires on my car I ran them through the rubber Molex that the wires that go to the door are run through. It can be a real PITA if you don't know the trick. The easiest way I've found is to unhook the harness inside the door and push it all out into the doorjam. You might need a couple small screwdrivers to unclip the Molex from the door and the doorjam. Once you have it all out you can try to fish the wires through the Molex. I usually spray some WD-40 into the Molex and run a metal rod through it. I then tape the wires I want to run through it to the rod. I WD-40 the wires and slide them through smooth as a hot knife through butter. No WD and the wires get hung up in there. You can then push the wires through the jam and they will come out above the fuse block. From there you can run the harness back into the door and clip the Molex back into its holes. Any questions, you can pm me. Edit: If you have just two wires, one for lock and one for unlock, this is how you want to wire your relays. You want to wire like the one titled "Actuators, reverse polarity." Car Security and Convenience, Power Door Locks, Multiple Wire Systems, Add Auto Lock/Unlock Last edited by SinCity : 5-22-08 at 0:48.
	Currently have two 1988 MX-6 GT 5 speeds, both white, one stock, one not http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2565091 http://www.cardomain.com/ride/3117307 I support Joe Arpaio for President

5-22-08, 7:20	#11 (permalink)
4cylfun Dedicated LX to GT Guy Join Date: May 2007 Location: Plainfield, IN, USA Age: 25 iTrader: (3)	got it down perfect man. Karma awarded. I think i'm ready to find some this weekend. Seems this one doesn't need a relay for the light flash. There is already the big ass relay with it but like i said that's most likely for remote start and i dont' want to do that to my manual. I know it can be done but the odds it gets left in gear and i've done that one before not knowing it and it did start crawling up a hill. That bastard doesn't die evidentally. Not sure what else i would ever want to use that for but maybe i'll think of something someday.
	'88 Mazda MX6 LX Manual Tranny with GT goodies and a custom paint job that i need to badly work on '74 Kawasaki S1-B 250 Triple 2 stroke And last the beater, the '91 Accord EX Coupe Auto w/ half a drop lol.

5-22-08, 19:23	#12 (permalink)
SinCity Join Date: May 2005 Location: Near Area 51, NV, USA Age: 31 iTrader: (1)	I have seen door actuators at Pep Boys Auto Parts out here.
	Currently have two 1988 MX-6 GT 5 speeds, both white, one stock, one not http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2565091 http://www.cardomain.com/ride/3117307 I support Joe Arpaio for President

5-22-08, 21:05	#13 (permalink)
4cylfun Dedicated LX to GT Guy Join Date: May 2007 Location: Plainfield, IN, USA Age: 25 iTrader: (3)	i've seen them online, like ebay which is where i was thinking of getting them. Unless you spot a set at autozone or something for less than 30 bucks i'm goin ebay rought. Espicially since its to be used with my alarm. I pretty much just want the relays and actuators. Think a 10Amp relay is too much? I'm not real sure what the current draw would be but i coudln't imagine it would be much, but still enough to lock door mechanisms.
	'88 Mazda MX6 LX Manual Tranny with GT goodies and a custom paint job that i need to badly work on '74 Kawasaki S1-B 250 Triple 2 stroke And last the beater, the '91 Accord EX Coupe Auto w/ half a drop lol.

5-22-08, 21:19	#14 (permalink)
allmazda Join Date: Mar 2002 Location: , NC iTrader: (2)	May not help you but the 88-91 Mazda 929 has door lock actuators. The set up was the same for the mx6 in that you could lock and unlock the doors with the lock knob and also has a lock switch on the window switches. I am looking for a window switch for one as it has the auto down feature built in the switch. I know that is not what you need but you may be able to use these actuators and get them from a junk yard for free. I think I have one if you want to see a pic. And I also have the wiring info on the 929.

5-24-08, 5:32	#15 (permalink)
4cylfun Dedicated LX to GT Guy Join Date: May 2007 Location: Plainfield, IN, USA Age: 25 iTrader: (3)	i'm just gonna get new ones, the ones from the 626 would probably work fine but mine in my passenger side only "tries" to lock. You can press down and it makes the sound that its trying to lock, but teh lock comes back up. So i was gonna get a new set. That and i figured out how they work now. More or less a ground and then 2 signal wires. I figured thats what it was but i'll let you know more when i do in it another week or so. Hell maybe even a diy
	'88 Mazda MX6 LX Manual Tranny with GT goodies and a custom paint job that i need to badly work on '74 Kawasaki S1-B 250 Triple 2 stroke And last the beater, the '91 Accord EX Coupe Auto w/ half a drop lol.