Running the LX this weekend

[4cylfun]

Well i've thought about doing this forever. I've been practing launching on forza ( go with me here....) and then more or less doing the same type of preparing rpms, and then feathering in gas enough to only spin tires a little. For whatever the reason i swear to god its running better than usual. Even on turns or just coming out of a neighborhood there is a slight wheel spin for a second or even just a tire bark. Not complaining, i know this is still and LX engine we're talking about but somethin in the beast woke up .

I'm shootin for like 16.8 fastest. Maybe i can do better but this would be my first time doing this. All of ya wish me luck. I'm having my dad video tape it and then i'll have it on the web soon after but sunday morning i'm gonna either have fun and leave with fun memories or break it and laugh it off and do it again after its fixed lol.

Should i take some stuff out of it for the race? I'm not gonna worry about trim cause i'm sure most of the plastic on the inside can only amount to like 10 pounds tops. Maybe the back seats and passenger seat. I know that passenger seat has to weigh at least 20-30 pounds by itself. But if i can't figure out at least a decent amount of weight to remove i'm not gonna worry about it cause i really don't see 30 pounds lighter making a difference.

[tx5_brent]

tyre and jack and tools and all of that crap, one of the best ways to keep weight down is keep the amount of fuel in the tank below 1/4 coz that stuff ant light. I understand what you mean though about how little effect such a small amount of weight will have though. With my n/a I find it a bit of a strugle to get the right amount of fuel coz you can feel it get faster as the level drops but if it gets below about 1/8 it starts to get fuel starvation.

[ademan]

Originally Posted by 4cylfun

Well i've thought about doing this forever. I've been practing launching on forza ( go with me here....) and then more or less doing the same type of preparing rpms, and then feathering in gas enough to only spin tires a little. For whatever the reason i swear to god its running better than usual. Even on turns or just coming out of a neighborhood there is a slight wheel spin for a second or even just a tire bark. Not complaining, i know this is still and LX engine we're talking about but somethin in the beast woke up .

I'm shootin for like 16.8 fastest. Maybe i can do better but this would be my first time doing this. All of ya wish me luck. I'm having my dad video tape it and then i'll have it on the web soon after but sunday morning i'm gonna either have fun and leave with fun memories or break it and laugh it off and do it again after its fixed lol.

Should i take some stuff out of it for the race? I'm not gonna worry about trim cause i'm sure most of the plastic on the inside can only amount to like 10 pounds tops. Maybe the back seats and passenger seat. I know that passenger seat has to weigh at least 20-30 pounds by itself. But if i can't figure out at least a decent amount of weight to remove i'm not gonna worry about it cause i really don't see 30 pounds lighter making a difference.

dont worry about it, u will be fine, even on motor ,my n/a will spin 1st and 2nd . just come off the line on idle. and follow through. let us know what happen. GL

[4cylfun]

o i will, i dont' plan on winning [shizzle] but mostly just going for the rush and to do it. You say come off on idle?

I was kinda planning on just dumping it around 2 grand and going from there. I dont' really want to go any higher than that cause i don't want to really [fizzle] it up but like i said, if somethin happens i have the honda to get me around.

[tx5_brent]

The two of you have different techniques it sounds like from the discription. You could do either and have similar results. getting off the clutch at idle allows you to punch the gas just before the clutch gets to the friction point. This allows you to be at WOT straight away without resulting in unnessacary wheel spin. Dumping at 2k will work better if done properly. You cant just boot it and hop off the clutch you will loose time due to too much wheel spin. What you want to do is release the clutch (not dump it) and when it hits the friction point thats when you want to dig the boot into the gas. When done properly you will find that you will end up at about 1.5k when the clutch is fully released. This way takes practice. I explained it step by step in a slow motion view. Its a hell of alot quicker in the real world and its not an action reaction thing (ie: when you feel the clutch bite accelerate) it doesnt work like this. You must know exactly where the friction point is, how quickly to release the clutch and when to punch the gas. This takes practice. You want to stop the engine from bogging down and you dont want too much wheel spin. You should aim for 1-2 secconds of wheel spin. Im not going to say you can learn how to do this on a video game because you simply can't. You could learn how to do it perfect in your car and then change the clutch (or even tyre pressures but that is easy to get used to) and have to re learn it again. The game might help you understand how much wheel spin is required but appart from that it wont help. You must practice.

On a side note I would advise not dropping the tyre pressures. In an n/a I find the car is faster with the tyres over inflated, espically if you have stock rims and tyre size. The side walls are too stiff to help with launching so all you would bo doing is increacing the rolling resistance.

Good luck

[4cylfun]

interesting about the tire pressure. I thought about uping the rear to like 40 or 38 and setting the front at 29-30. I'll update about this weekend though. I'm also gonna run front 929 wheels and in the back the 14" stockers. The 929 wheels are nice and meaty, and they are 205's. The 14 stockers are only i think like 185's or something i believe. I dont' think it'll be an issue but i know the 14's are 185/70 r14 and the 929 wheels i got have 205/65 r/15. So it should still be level enough to work without too many driveability issues.

[tx5_brent]

Find the weight of those 929 wheels. If they are too heavy you would be much better off with the stockers.

[XR2B6T]

I got two 5 speed first gens. Turbo GT and n/a DX. When i launch in the DX (dry pavement) i drop higher around 4,000 RPM`s and i let it pull and burn through first. I thought it pulled harder and quicker despite the wheel spin. In the GT it`s a different story. You want be more gentle... Just thought i`d share. I guess what you can do is try everybodys technique and share with us which one worked out the best.

[4cylfun]

well i didn't go. Which really sucks becuse for one i figured out why the parking brake on the passenger side never worked. Its not because all mazda's cable was too long which is what i kept thinking.

It was because the pasenger side was already engaged and locked up. The caliper didn't even work. So i had an extra one from the yard where i grabbed the wrong side and bingo. Both back wheels definitly lock up and it only takes a few turns of the nut on the lever to get to 8 clicks instead of damn near al he way down.

But the real problem is at idle i'm only at 8psi for oil pressure and it peaks at about 58 or so. I'm using 10w-30 and i think i used to have 10w-40 so maybe thats how i got a pressure drop. But with such a low pressure i didnt know if i would make it home. It also got a weird oil leak yesterday that i had nothing to do with. Looks like the crank seal is starting to go worse. If i park it somewhere for a while there's a few drips, if it runs for like 20 mins it doesn't seem to leak anywhere but i didn't want to chance it today. I'm going to poke my head around for a decent LX motor and just GT it up. I'm sure if i don't full boost it everyday it'll last just fine. Granted i'm still checking out the engine before i pull it but i've decided to go that route finally.