Engine Noise ( '89 MX-6 )

3-18-02, 20:26

'89 Mazda MX-6 DX with 250k on it- around three weeks ago I had all 12 of the lifters replaced with aftermarkets due to ticking noises. Just prior to the lifter repair the mechanic decided he had heard a faint noise from the bottom of the engine. After replacing the lifters the ticking disappeared but then there was a pronounced "klacking" noise from bottom of engine. Up to then was using 10-30 synthetic. I tried "Prolong" in the engine which took away the noise for a day and a half, but it came back. The mechanic indicated this was probably due to a bad bearing in the engine. Experimented with 15-50 oil, the noise went away for 2 days, but returned the same as before. I added "engine restore" and the klack noise has not come back for the past four days. There is somewhat less compression than normal and the engine works a little too hard above 70. Time for an engine rebuild?

**anarchyx34** · 3-18-02, 22:38

Hrm.. Might be. The only way I know to tell for sure is the pull the oil pan and look at the bearings and check for play. Still 250k miles is kinda high. I wouldnt rule out a rebuild.

3-20-02, 20:29

You Might want to try one more "magic in a bottle" remedy. I had the same clicking noise about 80,000 miles ago ( I now have 181,000). My mechanic said I need new valve lifters but I wasn't about to spend all that money. Then on a hunch I bought something called SolderSeal/gunk"VALVEMEDIC" in the the auto parts store. I followed the directions and did an old change afterward with the engine superhot, letting it drain a good half hour. I filled the engine with a synthetic blend and the sound was gone. Every couple oil changes it comes back but I just do the same thing with the "VALVEMEDIC" and its gone....i'm not promising anything but you might want to give it a try.....its the only additive that ever did anything for me...................

3-26-02, 0:33

This noise wasn't a lifter noise - they were all replaced. Engine noise was a more like a knocking sound like klack, klack which went away completely after adding engine restore. According to the Mazda mechanic, I probably had carbon deposits which were knocked loose somehow -is that possible?? Except the acceleration is not too great and I still experience this wierd irregular vibration in the engine when it's idling..

3-26-02, 2:46

its a bigend bearing, they are very easy to replace, and with 250k
miles I would do the main bearings a rings also

4-15-02, 14:40

Turns out that noise was NOT an engine problem. Standing in front ofthe engine maybe the "mechanics" heard a bad engine bearing. The noise, vibration, engine working hard at higher speeds, etc. came from a bad power steering pump.

Good thing that a real Mazda mechanic diagnosed it, three other mechanics were convinced the problem was an engine bearing (cost 1500 dollars+ for useless rebuild. The results I seemed to get from oil additives was freak coincidence ). Apparently engine bearings on Mazdas don't have much of a reputation for wearing out - the giveaway was the noise came and went randomly.

**johniebgoode** · 4-15-02, 15:37

Your "6" has served you well,and probably others as well. It is most noteworthy of any car with 250,000 miles are usually beyond the marvels and miracles in a can. Almost like being on a deserted island and throwing a bottle with a message in it out to sea for help! Maybe there is a magical genie or guardian angel. Lucky for you, as most of us get those monster gremlins after us. Great news,only downside may end up with too many additives , IE: Snythetics,Restore,Slick50,and other products tend to always find the weakest seals & gaskets,causing messy oil seepage. At least thats been my experience for what it's worth!Happy motoring and never let that "6" die .

**Mazda4Life** · 4-18-02, 13:29

Mine did the same thing... I use moble 1 sythetic 10-30 and i add barhaul 2 after every oil change.... works like a charm

4-18-02, 18:18

I dont know about you, but i personally dislike all those 10-30wt oils, mainly due to they are using 10 wt oil and saying that it'll work good on an engine that requires 30 wt oil. i dont know about the rest of you, but for summer, im going to switch over to 40 wt oil, and for winter, im generally at 30 so the oil will get warmer and to the engine faster...