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Old 2-24-09, 10:13   #1 (permalink)
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Clutch peddle problem

Last night I was at the store and when I came out I started the car and pushed the clutch pedal down and it stayed there. I checked the fluid and it was full. I tried putting the car in gear and starting the engine and the clutch was engaged but the pedal is like it is not connected to anything. Can anyone tell me what parts, linkage attaches the pedal to the clutch master cylinder?

Last edited by Phil M; 2-24-09 at 11:34..
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Old 2-24-09, 12:36   #2 (permalink)
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Likely your clutch master cylinder just gave up the ghost. Is the fluid black?

1989 MX-6 GT. ORIGINAL OWNER!! 300K on the original clutch, K&N drop-in, Gillis boost valve, Tokico Blues, OEM RSTB, Energy Suspension poly sway bar bushings, end links, tie rod end boots, AWR poly motor mounts, OEM rear lower tie bar, PGT rear sway bar. Techna-Fit stainless brake lines, AWR trailing links, new OEM lateral links.
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Old 2-24-09, 12:45   #3 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mlp-mx6 View Post
Likely your clutch master cylinder just gave up the ghost. Is the fluid black?
Yes the fluid is dark gray, does this mean the cylinder seals are gone?
Also wouldn't the spring in the master cylinder push the pedal back up or does it not have the range to do that?

Last edited by Phil M; 2-24-09 at 13:15..
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Old 2-24-09, 13:34   #4 (permalink)
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If the seals are gone there is nothing to push with.

I'm sure you know this, but the fluid should never be that color.

Sounds to me like you need a new clutch master cylinder.

1989 MX-6 GT. ORIGINAL OWNER!! 300K on the original clutch, K&N drop-in, Gillis boost valve, Tokico Blues, OEM RSTB, Energy Suspension poly sway bar bushings, end links, tie rod end boots, AWR poly motor mounts, OEM rear lower tie bar, PGT rear sway bar. Techna-Fit stainless brake lines, AWR trailing links, new OEM lateral links.
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Old 2-24-09, 14:44   #5 (permalink)
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OK at lunch time I went out and had some one move the pedal up and down by hand and I can hear a bunch of noise, like air bubbles, from the slave cylinder area. I haven't had time to look but is the slave cylinder on the outside of the bell housing or the inside? How do I get to it? I had a Saab that had it on the inside, what a PITA that was.
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Old 2-24-09, 19:25   #6 (permalink)
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outside, front of the tranny...

'88 Mazda 626 2.0i-16 4ws
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Old 2-25-09, 0:02   #7 (permalink)
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that bubbeling sound could be because the bleeder nipple is loose, but I doubt thats your problem

She got torque? Yer she pulls like a 15 year old.

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or you could have done what i did and left a screwdriver under the valve cover
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Old 2-25-09, 11:12   #8 (permalink)
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my lx did the same thing we changed out the slave cylinder when i was at work me and my friend had it changed out with in about an hour or less didnt even have to jack up the car. However when it went out it drained the fluid and everytime I have heard of the slave cylinder going out it drains the fluid. So i could be mistaken but it might not be the slave. Please people correct me if let me know if the slave can go out and still leave the fluid full.

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Old 2-25-09, 11:28   #9 (permalink)
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bubbleing could also be worn seals on the slave as well.....
for the $15 part, its definatly worth it to change it.

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Old 2-25-09, 11:48   #10 (permalink)
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Had a little bit more time after work so I had some one press the pedal while I had my hand on the slave cylinder and you could feel the fluid pass the piston so I replaced the slave ($25) and all is good. If I could have waited I'm sure I could have gotten one for less.
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Old 2-25-09, 12:58   #11 (permalink)
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$15 - $30 is a going rate for one, so you didn't get ripped off....
good to see that all it was.

Mike

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Old 2-25-09, 13:36   #12 (permalink)
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Glad it wasn't the master. That is much more of a pain to change.

Every time my slave has failed it has drained the reservoir.

1989 MX-6 GT. ORIGINAL OWNER!! 300K on the original clutch, K&N drop-in, Gillis boost valve, Tokico Blues, OEM RSTB, Energy Suspension poly sway bar bushings, end links, tie rod end boots, AWR poly motor mounts, OEM rear lower tie bar, PGT rear sway bar. Techna-Fit stainless brake lines, AWR trailing links, new OEM lateral links.
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Old 2-26-09, 17:07   #13 (permalink)
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I've gone through several slaves and they never drained the master, just lost enough pressure that the pedal didn't work. When you peel back the rubber boot over the plunger on the slave, it would be full of fluid.

If the fluid in the master is dirty, the seals in the master are probably going too. Not too much dirt or seal particles should be travelling all the way UP the system to the master resevoir. The reason I mention this is I replaced a few extra slaves because I kept using the same master with the same dirty fluid in it.

I would suggest taking apart the master, cleaning it well, blowing air through the lines and then re-installing everything with fresh fluid so you don't end up doing the job all over again. The fluid might be old and contaminated and starting to eat the seals.

The master is not that hard to take off or take apart to clean up.
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Old 3-10-09, 17:59   #14 (permalink)
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Got the same problem just happen an hour ago. First i felt it when my clutch pedal wasn't going back at normal position then i tried pumping it then it slowly depressing deeper & deeper until on a stop sign when stepping on it i heard & felt "tok" noise seems something just gave up and can't shift on to gear. I was trying to pump it but can't feel any more pressure. I suspect that this wold be the clutch slave cylinder. coz when depressing the clutch pedal i could still feel a slight pressure on the Master cylinder. I could still say that it might be good just need to double check it & find out if i was right to pinpoint the problem on the slave. I forgot to mention my Master cylinder is pretty much new.
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Old 3-23-09, 16:06   #15 (permalink)
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Update on my clutch problem, after replacing the clutch slave and bleeding it still it wont build up pressure so i decided to change the clutch master as well, in just a little bit of time pumping it pressure is building up. in my case its better to change them both & fill up with a new fluid.
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