Tell me, Mr. Anderson, what good is a phone call when you are unable to speak?
Scan tool availability?
I have an '89 MX-6 and the Chilton manual says I can use Mazda's Digital Code Checker (No. 49 G018 9AO or qquivalent) or Mazda's Self-Diagnosis Checker (No. 49 H018 9A1 or equivalent). Does anybody know where I can buy one of these? Thanks.
you dont need one. Look here (pasted from the FAQ):
How to read codes from the 1st gen self-diagnostic system (1989-1992)
All mx6's/probes have a self-diagnostic system that monitors the engine sensors for malfunctions. The 2.2L engine uses the Electronic Engine Control system (EEC) and the 3.0L engine uses the Electronic Engine Control-IV system (EEC-IV). The Check Engine Light (CEL) is an amber light that illuminates in the dash panel (gauge pod) when the Electronic Engine Control system senses a malfunction in one of the sensors. This information is stored in the ECA as a two or three digit code. These codes can be read easily by anyone.
What you will need: Piece of wire that is stripped on both ends.
Instructions for the 2.2L engine:
-Make sure the engine is off and the key is out of the ignition.
-Locate the loose single wire harness near the driver's side strut tower. The wire should be red. This connector is called the self-test input connector (STI).
-Use the piece of wire to connect this STI connector to ground (negative battery terminal works well).
-Turn the key to the "ON" position, but do not start the engine.
-Codes are displayed as flashes of the CEL with pauses between digits. If the code has two digits the flashes for the first digit are slightly longer than for the second digit. If there are multiple codes in the ECA, they are separated by a slightly longer pause. Codes are displayed from lowest number to highest, then repeated.
-After repairing a malfunctioning sensor, you need to clear the ECA's memory. Do this by disconnecting the negative battery cable and holding down the brake pedal for at least five seconds.
There is no code 18, so you're probably reading the codes wrong. Remember short flash = ones digit, long flash equals tens digit. Are you sure you don't have codes "1" and "8" ? Describe what you're seeing from the Check Engine Light with the one-pin green check connector grounded and ignition switch turned to ON.
the code scanners just give you the code numbers.. and they're lead... i.e. "ems" - emissions shit like that.. oh ya.. they will also read the o2 for you.. lean/ rich with 1 little LED... very very very pointless...
ive used a snap on "scanner" on every engine 1st gen
expensive device, that more or less tells you of any trouble codes, can run some tests, and iirc, it showed me several inputs such as tps, o2, knock, etc, basically whatever the ECU can pick up
otherwise, grounding out the STI and going from there is easy enough.
at first time i pulled the codes, i think i got a 1 and a 8. then i cleared the codes, and now only get code 1. Currently no spark. The coil tests out okay i believe, i just replaced the cap&rotor,plugs, and wires cuz they were needing it. I think code 1 is the initor module. guessl i'll take the distributor off and check things out.