My AWD platform - Page 4

**NSXR** · 11-13-10, 3:05

Quote:

Originally Posted by STW

I had hoped the rear subframe would bolt right onto existing holes. No such luck, the hole spacing is about 250mm, fwd is 140. EDIT: Also, FWD has bolts, this thing has studs...

Hi STW,

Could u please measures the distance on the pic?

Uploaded with ImageShack.us

Do you think this hole could be used instead of the original hole.
This looks close to 140mm to me.

i believe you also mentionned a difference of 10 mm in rear frame width between 4wd and 2wd.
Could this be an uncertainty in the measurement?
I was also thinking that the 4wd rear frame could be bent for some reason leading to that difference.

Btw, I checked the 4ws rear frame bolt spacing and it is same as 2WD without 4WS. Some guy actually installed a 4ws rear frame on his 2WD.

Please let me know

Peace
NSXR

**STW** · 11-16-10, 11:09

Sorry I couldn't reply earluer, I had quite a load of problems with my computer, first the new GFX card on my primary computer got fried (after just few days I purchased it) and I had traded in my old one, and all of my spare adapters were AGP. So I had to put my backup computer into use, but that thing was dying on me too, capacitor plague. So I had to build a backup computer for my backup computer! ...whew.

I don't think the subframe is bent, even though it is quite a bit rusted. I'll have to measure it for squareness, but I believe the rear frames are wider on AWD. The trailing arm mount was considerably heavier than in FWD too. I'll measure the D dimension but I seriously do not recommend trying to use original subframe mounts! The FWD mounts are supported only by the underside of the frame box, while the AWD studs (seem to) go all the way through.

**STW** · 4-9-11, 16:19

Since the company DID let me go and I've been short on income since, not much anything has been going on, except planning.

I think my poor chassis is going to need a bit of new steel, in this shape:

Yeah, it's full frame rail replacement... at least doing so should make it much stiffer than the original ever was. The design is not finished obviously, it'll need adjustments still. When I'm finished designing it, the CAD software will give me cutlists and templates for all the tubing and gussets. Can't but love it. Material will be 60x100x2 and 60x40x2 rectangular steel tubing.

**STW** · 4-9-11, 19:01

Assembly with the tubular rear subframe while at it.

**ls six** · 4-9-11, 23:41

Glad to see your still at it, my GTR trans hasnt been touched since being put n the basement and I have had no luck finding a 4wd protege or gtx/gtr parts car either.

Spent plenty of time looking at other cars and their components and fonud many promising donors (toyota/lexus subaru cx7 etc) but putting together a complete rear end is tough and connecting the old G series to a new style awd rear has its own issues.

Considering I will have to cut up the GTR trans anyway I have thought about substituting an MTX-75 to match the modern rearends better.

**STW** · 4-10-11, 11:50

I did put out some requests for quotes on mitsu EvoIII+ gearbox, turns out just having the transmission and rear diff will cost me more than a full makeover on the Mazda gearbox, and then you'll need to reinforce that too. I'll try to see how far the original box can be taken to, though I'm sure a stronger box is a must somewhere down the line.

**STW** · 4-12-11, 15:00

If anyone's curious about how the car was mover after I removed the rear suspension from the donor AWD, here's how I kept the thing mobile:

I made a transport suspension out of 1x2" and 2x2" tubing with trailer wheel hubs

Here's how it looks like installed:

That thing is *very* tall indeed. I actually had to lift it quite a bit to fit 13" wheels! It's intentional obviously, I only need wheel chocks to get under the car now.

**STW** · 5-11-11, 9:22

GRRRRRRRAAAAAAAAAHHHHHHH

I sent the inquiry whether the AWD and FWD are counted as the same model series/platform to the Mazda factory representative, a requisite for the swap. I got the response and it turns out the Finnish Traffic Safety Agency at the time had decided that all FWD models belong to one series, and AWD's to the other. So thanks a bunch.

The project isn't quite dead and buried yet, there is a chance for exemption permission. It's only approved for special reasons (I need to make up some), and the handling costs are about $500, regardless of the outcome. I really wish I didn't have to take that route but so it seems I have to.

**chief tool** · 5-11-11, 14:44

dont you love bureaucrats....

**STW** · 5-5-12, 5:04

Here we go again! After a full year of near-inactivity (not quite, but almost) I've begun serious work on the car again. The year 2011 was a really bad year for car building. My plan is to file in the exempt application after repairing the front end to top-notch condition, creating better grounds for approval (the original AWD was almost as badly rusted).

Previously I had used only small sheet metal patches with very little shaping, but that's not going to be enough when repairing this car. I started slowly, beginning to repair the front end of the frame box rail and bumper mount box.

Working on the new flange for the frame rail. Starting with an L-strip, the S-curve was worked in with a few dollies and hammers.

Working up on the difficulty, I recreated the shape of the rail from blank stock. It follows the original shape reasonably well. There's a bulge in the sheet metal, but it's smooth and not too large so it shouldn't matter.

Further going up the difficulty scale, I made replacement panels for the bumper mount box. I originally attempted to make it a single panel, but that proved way too difficult, so I had to split it. I need to clean up welds, it was a windy day (I have a tarp tent to work in) so there are some porous beads here and there. After cleaning up the area I'll repair the front tie beam and then the front end is pretty much done.

**STW** · 5-6-12, 17:05

I had the subframe sandblasted, what a sorry piece of mangled steel it is... It's almost as if it's designed to rust away.

Here's a few detail shots of the car cancer. Doesn't look good.

To create a proper edge on which to weld I cleaned up the ragged holes.

I found some softer sheet that is easier to form into the complex shapes. The last one was a bit too difficult to hammer into final shape so the shape was finalized in situ

Perhaps not the prettiest metal work but I'm sure it's up to the job. I'm going to weld the outer edhes of the patch and the inner edges of the hole for strength. I't not the prettiest job but up to the task, I believe...

**STW** · 5-8-12, 11:28

Dear lord, the AWD's subframe has to be the crappiest design and manufacture Mazda has ever made... huge gaps everywhere and lots of places for the crud to trap to, like this:

This is not the proper way to make things!

Anyway... back to hammering sheet metal. I must be #1 on my neighbours' (s)hitlist

It actually took quite a while to bang this piece into shape...

Of course, some dressing was needed while welding the piece on. How much of the original steel will be left after I'm done with the subframe, I wonder...

**STW** · 5-9-12, 15:44

Didn't get to beat metal into submission today, instead I fetched this thing:

11th century armorsmithing is fun, but nothing beats a good bench brake/cutter/roller

**DarkMx-6** · 5-10-12, 11:00

Nice! Your pretty hard core with all that. Do I see custom made intake and exhaust manifolds in your future?

**STW** · 5-10-12, 15:50

Quote:

Originally Posted by DarkMx-6

Nice! Your pretty hard core with all that. Do I see custom made intake and exhaust manifolds in your future?

You will see more of this:

http://www.mx6.com/forums/fe-dohc/20...-dohc-stw.html (2.2 Stroker DOHC by STW)

once I get a new job. There are some legal hurdles still too, but right now the car build is progressing quite steadily.

The rear subframe should be, I hope, done in the next week. It's very important both front end AND the rear subframe is in top condition when I submit the exempt request. I started on the front section of the car, but because of spring cleanup, the repair tent is full of dry leaves right now, not the ideal situation for welding business.