Hello, 1g probe owner with some issues. First off, car is stock except for cone filter and gutted cat, duralene trans/shifter bushings. 1g was running ok till last night. As I was leaving the parking lot, cant shift into gear 1st,2nd or any gear. Turned the engine off, got 1st but start up felt a "little rough". Still cant get any other gear so had to rev match to catch 3rd and limped the car home. Clutch was not slipping (got on 3rd and pulled fine with no slippage). Recently changed the clutch master cylinder and slave cylinder 6 months ago (car had the same problem on the way home when I got her so I changed it then). Clutch master seems fine so is the slave but i shall bleed the fluid just in case. No fluid losses on the MC, thinking my throw out bearing or clutch it self? Hopefully not the gear synchros... Any thoughts or opinion would be appreciated.
Hello, 1g probe owner with some issues. First off, car is stock except for cone filter and gutted cat, duralene trans/shifter bushings. 1g was running ok till last night. As I was leaving the parking lot, cant shift into gear 1st,2nd or any gear. Turned the engine off, got 1st but start up felt a "little rough". Still cant get any other gear so had to rev match to catch 3rd and limped the car home. Clutch was not slipping (got on 3rd and pulled fine with no slippage). Recently changed the clutch master cylinder and slave cylinder 6 months ago (car had the same problem on the way home when I got her so I changed it then). Clutch master seems fine so is the slave but i shall bleed the fluid just in case. No fluid losses on the MC, thinking my throw out bearing or clutch it self? Hopefully not the gear synchros... Any thoughts or opinion would be appreciated.
Quote:
Originally Posted by 90trbo
P.s. As long as the engine is off, I could select gears easily.
could it be that the clutch is not disengaging properly....
might be a leak in the clutch hydraulics
84 626 sedan FE SOHC turbo, FE3 on hold, Toyota E58 conversion under way.
89 626 5 door F2T now with VF34 and MFactory LSD parted - now being made into tomato soup cans
90 323 sedan B6 SOHC Slug-o-matic DD, sold...too slow
84 626 sedan RF diesel, a slug but you get 6.0L/100km (39MPG)
Does the clutch pedal feel okay? My mom's volvo had busted clutch mechanism, it occasionally didn't disengage at all. Both cylinders were replaced and the problem went away.
Also, my dad also had a problem with clutch not disengaging, though his problem was the pressure plate, clutch disk and flywheel were fused into one big solid lump.
Anyway the problem is your clutch not disengaging properly. It might not be big, even if you could keep the car in place in gear and clutch depressed there could be slight connection. The problem with synchro box is if your input shaft isn't completely disengaged from engine, the synchros won't work and you can't get it in gear.
edit: have you checked clutch fluid level?
1988 626 GT Wagon, 2.0 DOHC Turbo | 1988 626 GT DOHC Hatch | 1992 Toyota Carina e GLi | 1991 626 GLX Hatch AWD 2.2l
If you can smoothly shift with the engine off then it's a slave/master or pressure plate problem.
Put the car in neutral, start the engine and pump the clutch pedal a bunch of times and see if you can shift it into gear.
-If yes then put it in first and hold the clutch pedal to the floor. If the clutch starts to engage (car starts to pull) then there is a leak or air in the lines.
-If after pumping the clutch (with engine running) you can't get it in gear then the adjustment might be off:
Start by adjusting the clutch pedal rod that goes into the master (adjust it farther out).
Then bleed the clutch without pumping the pedal between bleeds (there is no booster on the clutch).
Slave cylinders in our cars are not an uncommon fail point. It's a very cheap and easy fix, I'd try that. It sounds exactly like a slave (or master, but this is less common) cylinder.
If it is one of the cylinders, you can't get it into gear because the clutch basically is not disengaged despite your pedal being pressed in. You can engage with the engine off because you don't need the clutch to run through the gears if the engine isn't running. It's running rough when in gear because essentially the clutch is dragging (like you're riding it) even though the pedal is pressed in.
You can drive it this way if you need to by putting it in gear and starting it. If it is the cylinder, As the problem gets worse, it will likely start to move as you turn the key. Once you're moving along, you can shift gears by releasing the throttle and shifting on timing - matching the revs and not using the clutch. This is pretty hard on the drive train - especially the transmission so I'd only be doing this to get the car home if you're stuck.
The boot does a good job of hiding the leak, you may need to pop it off the cylinder to get the fluid to leak out.
I replaced about 5 of these, about once a month until I changed the master cylinder too. The fluid looked very clean and I always bleed it out really well but I guess a bit of dirt was in the master and it was contaminating my slaves. I was also using a cheap brand of brake fluid (although from a brand new container.)
I changed both cylinders, blew a ton of compressed air through the line to really clean it out and used valvoline brake fluid. It's been working for 2 years now with no problems.
If it is your slave, make sure the fluid is clean and if it's only a few $ to change out the master at the same time, I would think about it. They're both a very easy job.
I replaced about 5 of these, about once a month until I changed the master cylinder too.
This is *exactly* what the mechanic who fixed the clutch in the Volvo said; replace both or there will be no end to problems with clutch cylinders. Didn't even cost a whole lot to do it.
1988 626 GT Wagon, 2.0 DOHC Turbo | 1988 626 GT DOHC Hatch | 1992 Toyota Carina e GLi | 1991 626 GLX Hatch AWD 2.2l
This is *exactly* what the mechanic who fixed the clutch in the Volvo said; replace both or there will be no end to problems with clutch cylinders. Didn't even cost a whole lot to do it.
I found out the clutch master is usually cheaper than the slave
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