the valve cover is off however it is very messy in there since coolant and oil are all mixed. I was reffering to: the intake valves are fully closed when the #4 on the cam gear is aligned with the arrow on the head.... is that true??
If coolant and oil are mixing then it's probably the head gasket, most of the coolant would steam off and blow out the exhaust if it was coming from an intake valve because it would only get dumped in when the valves opened.
Not sure which valves sit where in relation to the numbering on the cam gear, I just look to see if the rockers for that valve are up or down, look at the cam lobes to see where the rocker arm is.
Or just back off the rocker assemblies, all the valve will be shut when you do the leak down test, just put the engine in neutral turn the crank with a ratchet until 1 and 4 (pistons) are up, put the car in gear and check 1 and 4, neutral 2+3 up, in gear test 2+3.
All my searches turned up having to O ring the block for copper head gasket installations, there was a thread (here I think) about someone using metal wire cable they slashed grooves into one of the surfaces (Gasket/head/block cant remember which) around the cylinder in an X pattern and put in the metal cable ....
Many copper head gasket instals I read about where claimed to be successful by the owner despite the fact they leaked- So do Copper head gaskets often leak even when properly/correctly installed ?.
The final deciding factor for me was "electrolysis corrosion" From my understanding (lazy) Having two different metals, iron and aluminum, a copper head gasket will act as a conductor and cause particles from each surface to deposit onto the other... How long it takes? After it starts can both surfaces be used again without machining (shave/deck), shaving to much off will increase chances of head lift.
Looked into cometic gaskets...
Finally realized I have seen no documented info on the failing point of a felpro head gasket under boost on the F2T (After xLBS the head gasket fails and a stonger aftermarket version is required).
Same goes for head studs...
I had head lift occur two years ago for about 8months, rad cap would pop off once and a while above 18lbs boost, I suspected the head as the problem, it had been shaved about .003" - .005" when i ported it, I blew the Tbird turbo, swapped a stock in and severed one of the turbo coolant lines without knowing, overheated and warped the head they took another .015" of to get it true again, sat in the shop for years... after 8month I finally looked into it, pulled the front central head bolt and found head gasket melted to the bolt, so I put on a different P&P head, new felpro gasket and some other used head bolts and never had another problem.
The head gasket that suffered head lift looked pretty good still, despite exhaust gases passing over it, never had any symptoms of leaks aside from under high boost, car ran great despite 8month of head lifting.
I would just say put in a felpro and save the copper head gasket for when you need to use it due to really high boost.
Or have all the surfaces trued (machined) and try again.