3 years total, on my 2nd cluster, 2nd fuel pump assy.
When i first purchased the car, the gauge was iffy, but worked 95% of the time..
Fast forward a few years to current, gas gauge and temp gauge both are dead 99% of the time.
Depending on ambient temperature (really hot outside, or really cold) they might work for about 3 mins or less after start up, then die.
Like i mentioned, im on my second cluster, and fuel pump assembly is from an 89 PGT, as is the walbro pump. But before the change, it still was off and on, so that can be ruled out in the case of suspicion.
Grounds that ive unbolted, cleaned, sanded, and re-torqued:
-2 trans grounds, airbox side
-fuel rail ground, t.b. side
-timing cover ground, and egr valve area ground
-fuse box ground
-a mics. ground to the left of the cluster
I did search of course, found a couple related threads, but no definitive solution or conclusion.
If you'd like pictures of anything, more info, or more specific info, please just ask.
3 years without knowing your fuel level..can you imagine?
Active: 89' 626 GT ATX to MTX
Fast stuff: P-ECU - Dual valve springs - 190 fuel pump - NGK plugs/wires - MSD B2 coil - ATX TB - virgin wastegate (never over 9psi...I need a MBC) (waiting on O2 housing)
Stiff stuff: GroundControl coilovers - 18mm PGT rear sway- AWR trailing links - Energy endlinks/swaybar bushings- FSTB/RSTB - 'Hondakiller' Tie bar
It looks like you've tried used parts so far, if I'm wrong tell me. If not though have you tried a new fuel sending unit? I understand you're stuck with the used cluster thing. The temp gauges are famous for not working or barley working. When I first bought my car it had the exact problems. The ultimate fix was a new fuel sending unit and then an used gauge cluster next. Good luck, I kind of know your pain.
To be exact, not NEW, but ive switched between the mx6 assembly, and the PGT assembly, and on top of that, ive taken both sending units apart and cleaned the internals.
still nada.
and its BOTH gauges, the coolant and gas, they die together, and flick on together (if and when it does)
Active: 89' 626 GT ATX to MTX
Fast stuff: P-ECU - Dual valve springs - 190 fuel pump - NGK plugs/wires - MSD B2 coil - ATX TB - virgin wastegate (never over 9psi...I need a MBC) (waiting on O2 housing)
Stiff stuff: GroundControl coilovers - 18mm PGT rear sway- AWR trailing links - Energy endlinks/swaybar bushings- FSTB/RSTB - 'Hondakiller' Tie bar
It sounds like more of a wiring problem. Does the low fuel light come on when you're low? At least that would give you a warning before you run out. There's a ton of differences between sending units on these cars. Stuff like trim level,trans type, turbo or n/a and even digi dash or analog. Good luck with your problem.
Does the low fuel light come on when you're low? At least that would give you a warning before you run out. T
Wouldn't that be nice..
but no, the low fuel light is perma-on, since the swapped PGT pump assy, there's a one prong connector that doesn't have a home.. i would assume it has something to do with the light, but not the gauge as it still works that 1% of the time.
Active: 89' 626 GT ATX to MTX
Fast stuff: P-ECU - Dual valve springs - 190 fuel pump - NGK plugs/wires - MSD B2 coil - ATX TB - virgin wastegate (never over 9psi...I need a MBC) (waiting on O2 housing)
Stiff stuff: GroundControl coilovers - 18mm PGT rear sway- AWR trailing links - Energy endlinks/swaybar bushings- FSTB/RSTB - 'Hondakiller' Tie bar
Its like a group of people staring at you from behind the glass, "hey i can see you" i say, to which the crowd responds "...."
Unless your a long time member and tight with the already shrinking original community, no one gives a [shizzle] about your problems, you only make enemys, and you prove your reasons to say F-it and go anywhere else with every post.
Prove me wrong mx6.com, cause so far, Ive only been proved right.
Dammit i just want a working gas and temp gauge..
last time i saw them working, it was on a different mx6, in an ONLINE VIDEO.
Active: 89' 626 GT ATX to MTX
Fast stuff: P-ECU - Dual valve springs - 190 fuel pump - NGK plugs/wires - MSD B2 coil - ATX TB - virgin wastegate (never over 9psi...I need a MBC) (waiting on O2 housing)
Stiff stuff: GroundControl coilovers - 18mm PGT rear sway- AWR trailing links - Energy endlinks/swaybar bushings- FSTB/RSTB - 'Hondakiller' Tie bar
i have a spare cluster mtx analog, but when's the last time you changed your fuel filter
also, just cause you change the actual pump from the pump assembly might not be your problem, it might be the assembly itself has a faulty sensor that doesn't detect the fuel level correctly.
the temp, mine creeps up and down all the time, but i blame it on the thermo sensor, prob on it's last leg.
thought it was the harness itself as it was dried out/rotted, but replaced that and still have the same problem. might want to look at those things first then blame the fuel reg, rail, pump or filter.
Its like a group of people staring at you from behind the glass, "hey i can see you" i say, to which the crowd responds "...."
Unless your a long time member and tight with the already shrinking original community, no one gives a [shizzle] about your problems, you only make enemys, and you prove your reasons to say F-it and go anywhere else with every post.
Prove me wrong mx6.com, cause so far, Ive only been proved right.
Dammit i just want a working gas and temp gauge..
last time i saw them working, it was on a different mx6, in an ONLINE VIDEO.
Or maybe... it's just because we don't know? I've been watching this thread in the hopes that i can learn something for future reference, but i've never had this problem, never really heard of this problem. So there's probably 20 views with no replies accounted for.
But hey! Here's a reply! Good luck!
PS: i'm going with wiring. As to where and what the problem is? I can't diagnose that over the internet. Time to break out a multimeter and the FSM.
“One thing I’ve noticed over the years is that if you drive into London at 6am, half of the cars on the roads are Porsches and Astons. Whereas if you go in at ten to nine, they’re all Renaults. Simple solution, then. You want a nice car? Get up earlier and do more work.”
I really think this comes down to the cluster somewhere. If it was one thing (fuel) I would say sending unit more than likely. But both fuel and temp working that way together would indicate to me some sort of cluster wiring or a solder issue in the board. I hate to suggest it, but try a different cluster if you can find one. Remember one thing too, the temp gauges aren't very reliable on these cars from personal experience. I've read plenty of stories about other having problems with them too. I do know your problem dealing with a non working fuel gauge. It took me several months before I got my problem sorted out when I first bought my car.
Traced all the wiring I could, down to every relay and fuse and ground, all good at a visible level.
Havnt gone so far as to break out the multi-meter, so that can be next.
Now to those saying its the cluster, when I took the original out, and replaced it with the current one, both gauges instantly flicked on and moved, but within a few mins, went back to dead...
This really makes me think its not the cluster, but some weird problem elsewhere....
But where?
I guess ill take concealer advice and break out the multi meter..make sure the sending unit is in fact spitting out a value.
Ps: 'mazda 626' I love your sig..makes me want to share a laugh face to face with you. .....
Active: 89' 626 GT ATX to MTX
Fast stuff: P-ECU - Dual valve springs - 190 fuel pump - NGK plugs/wires - MSD B2 coil - ATX TB - virgin wastegate (never over 9psi...I need a MBC) (waiting on O2 housing)
Stiff stuff: GroundControl coilovers - 18mm PGT rear sway- AWR trailing links - Energy endlinks/swaybar bushings- FSTB/RSTB - 'Hondakiller' Tie bar
Visual check won't do anything but showing you if there's an actual break in the wiring, which what you described... already tells you that's not what's going on.
Unless you literally see a cut apart wire, it's ALWAYS multimeter time.
Or at least a test light, but that's not likely to help you much in this case.
Do you know how to do a voltage drop test?
“One thing I’ve noticed over the years is that if you drive into London at 6am, half of the cars on the roads are Porsches and Astons. Whereas if you go in at ten to nine, they’re all Renaults. Simple solution, then. You want a nice car? Get up earlier and do more work.”
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