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Old 4-25-12, 16:16   #16 (permalink)
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Naturally aspirated, VS Turbocharged.

Nitrous is like a hot chick with a STD..... you know you wanna hit it, but you are afraid of the consequences.....

1988 MX6 http://www.mx6.com/forums/showthread...ferrerid=35300
1989 Probe GT M/T -cut in half with saw-zaw
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Old 4-25-12, 20:29   #17 (permalink)
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Dual valve springs would be a bit much on a n/a automantic, you can stiffen the stock valve springs by adding spacers, any engine shop should have them, 0.35 or 0.40mm would do the job and changing the valve stem seals never hurts.

You have very limited options without engine work or stand alone.
As far as aftermarket support goes you have none.

Play with the engine timing (I think 6degrees is stock for non turbo), the compression is low 8.6:1 and the cars run rich, if it leans out to much run a higher grade then regular.

Do Not remove the resonance chamber on the rubber intake tube, you will loose 10 hpr mid range.

Larger gt sway bars and GT coil springs improve handling, a set of polly sway bar bushings and link kits is very cheap.

On the 1990+ F2 engine they run hot coolant through the intake manifold next to the throttle body, look up how the 88/89 model is set up and bypass that.

You can remove the EGR pipe, plug it up and put it back on keeping hot exhaust out of the intake manifold.

is the A/C core out of the dash?
the power antenna mechanism weigh a few pounds also.
Getting rid of the heater core saves a bit of weight on coolant that isn't cooling the engine.

http://www.cardomain.com/id/mazdacarnage
BUILD IT, BEAT IT, BREAK IT, REBUILD IT, BEAT IT MORE, BREAK IT AGAIN, BUILD IT BETTER, BEAT IT THE MOST AND ?
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Old 4-25-12, 23:49   #18 (permalink)
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Pics added

Thanks for all the replies again. I talked with the race tech today and he said I can't move the PS. I am not supposed to install different sway bars but they really haven't looked under the car yet. I did take the rubber bumper that is in the strut shaft under the plastic/rubber boot from the left side and added it to the right so it can't squat that far. I think that it is probably just the way it is going to be. THe car runs excellent and I am not struggling in hte pits like some of the other cars. The kids are having fun and that is what counts I guess lol. One of my female students will be driving it this weekend should be fun to watch. thanks,
Tony

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Old 4-27-12, 17:40   #19 (permalink)
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One of my fellow racers told me about G Force chips. I called them and they said it would work great on my NA 2.2 l. Any thoughts?
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Old 4-27-12, 19:46   #20 (permalink)

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If you're talking about the ebay chips, where they say its a chip then they actually send you a resistor and tell you to unplug your iat sensor and put it in the connector...I'd say no, lol, don't get it. It's a waste of money and all it does is trick your ECU into thinking the engine is cold so it dumps more fuel.

Now if its an actual chip, then you'd have to solder in a socket into your ECU and plug the chip in and see what happens. But as far as I know, from being in this scene for almost 3 years now, the only chips available are for f2t and they are made by ordinary people who have too much time one their hands. Not by companies. It's a gamble but if you do get a chip, be sure to let us know the results.

As said before, I think your best bet is to get the engine breathing well, in and out, adjust the timing, solid motor mounts if your allowed, and drive like a total asshole.
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Old 5-6-12, 8:22   #21 (permalink)
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wow this looks like a bunch of fun. i wish my high school would have had something like that.
try removing the coolant line that flows through the throttle body. that will help keep your intake air temps down.

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Old 5-6-12, 8:26   #22 (permalink)
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can you upload some video to you tube?

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Old 5-10-12, 18:28   #23 (permalink)

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Quote:
Originally Posted by DarkMx-6 View Post
try removing the coolant line that flows through the throttle body. that will help keep your intake air temps down.
I wouldn't recommend doing that. The iac valve has a wax thing in it that melts with coolant in order to control idle after warmup. Disconnecting the coolant lines would negate this feature and probably screw up your idle.
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