89 MX6 GT Turbo replacement help Please

[snowbilly]

I will be replacing my turbo or doing a factory swap thanks to ademan. What gaskets should I replace while doing this?, also with disconnecting the oil and water lines does anyone have any tricks?, plus what about the install do you need to bleed these lines or just idle the car and fill the fluids? Going to do this in the next couple weeks any help would be useful.

[mx_masta]

1. You want to take out the entire exhaust manifold, turbo and turbine outlet at once.

2. To do thid you need to remove the exhaust manifold nuts, downpipe flange nuts, EGR tube nut, turbo support bracket bolt, the O2 sensor wire plug and the turbo oil feed pipe.
Soak all of these in a penetrating lubricant like "loctite freeze release" the day before and just before you start crankin' on them, a broken stud or bolt is the last thing you want.

3. Once you have this done you need to lever the EGR tube out of the manifold and pull the manifold, turbo and outlet away from the head.

4. Once you have enough room you can remove the coolant feed and return lines as well as the oil drain line from the turbo.

5. The whole lot should now be able to be lifted out.

6. Assembly is a reverse of the above, with the following points;
-Ensure that the replacement turbo is primed with oil beforehand, I use a syringe to feed oil into it untill it starts seeping out of the drain.
-Ensure that you replace the exhaust manifold nuts, if you reuse them they will come loose, ordinary locking washers will not work.
-New gasket are worth the money but as long as you replace the exhaust manifold gasket, downpipe gasket and any damaged turbo gaskets you should be fine.
If you want to dress the gaskets with silicone, you must use copper RTV or spray.

7. Fill your oil and coolant as per usual, remove the coil lead and crank the engine for ten seconds or so to prime the turbo oil feed line.
Then run the car with the radiator cap off untill the fan has turned on a few times.
The coolant will expand and force any air out of the engine.
I usually jam a filler funnel in the raditor neck to allow for the expansion while a watch for the level to drop, it usually takes another 3 liters or so at that point.

[Mazda Carnage]

Good write up mx_masta. side notes:
If the down pipe nuts are crush nuts/lock in place/one time use/take the threads off the stud style, remove the 5 17mm O2 housing nuts (I have never had one strip or seen the studs snap), 99% of the time you can reuse the gasket.

I find the F2 has one of the easiest coolant systems to fill, just fill the rad and overflow, put the cap on and start the car, keep an eye on the overflow and the cooling system gets rid of the air itself.

I use 12 N/A manifold nuts instead of the crush style gt manifold nuts, torque the manifold using 6 and counter lock them with 6 more (never strip the studs or have to replace the manifolds nuts again).