A/C revival.

**RbluEMx6** · 5-5-12, 18:57

It has been awhile since I have had an a/c system in my GT. When I first got the car, the a/c wasnt working right and I never really bothered to fix it. So I yanked everything out. Fastforward to now, I have grown weary of driving with no a/c in these South Texas summers. And since I am getting older I am needing my creature comforts back.

This will be interesting seeing that I am running a standalone on my turbo FE dohc. I have the clearance for both p/s and a/c, but will be using the p/s pump as an idler pulley. Plus since I have no stock ecu to provide grounding and idle control for the compressor, I will have to find a simple way to mock up a grounding circuit for the a/c relay. I have be using the wsm links in the faqs to my advantage. Sure glad they are there.

I will be posting pictures of my progress as I go. I have already bought a complete r12 a/c system from a junkyard '90 626. I will start the install tomorrow and go from there.

If anyone has already done this, please feel free to share your ideas and experience.

**chief tool** · 5-6-12, 3:52

I have some experience in fiddling with A/C systems.

you maybe able to use an older style air bleed solenoid as your idle up (so long as your standalone runs in closed loop at idle) you would find these on some 80s cars with EFI.
My GC handles idle up in this way.

You can use a simple capillary thermostat to control you compressor on and off, feed the bulb into the evaporator core and then run the control wire to the compressor in series with the high pressure cutout (and low pressure if you have it).

I would not try and use the PS pump as an idler, the 90 system should have a moveable compressor to adjust the tension.
You will find belt slippage a serious issue without something to control the belt tension as the compressor draws a decent amount of torque when running.

Other things to note. I found that an R134a condenser makes a fair bit of difference to the performance. I got one from a GV 1023 wagon post 1994. I am not sure if these were sold in the US, and whether you plan to use R134a.

In both my GCs the evaporator cores had corroded and sprung leaks. For the price, replace yours while you have the system apart with a rock auto one, do the TX valve while you are at it, I made the mistake of not replacing the TX valve on one of the cars and after the core swap I found that the TX valve sensing had failed (probably after I man handled the sensing tube into position)

Drain the compressor oil and re fill it with 150cc of PAO 46 oil, and make sure you fit a new receiver dryer just before you're ready to vac it down.

Oh one other thing, buy an ebay green o ring kit and replace all the o rings as you go.

**RbluEMx6** · 5-6-12, 12:46

Good info.

I noticed that right away about the '90 system. It seems I can also separate the p/s pump from its bracket. I assume I would have to use a belt that is intended for non a/c since that is all that is available at the part stores.

I would like to convert to r134a but my big issue at the moment is fiting the drier/reciever since that area is now occupied by intercooler piping. I wonder how flexable these a/c lines can be before they break or crack.

**chief tool** · 5-6-12, 17:36

The aluminum lines, so you can bend them once. Use a pipe bender if you have one.

I have thought about moving the drier into a different spot on the liquid line before. The people that do custom lines could cut and swage the line where you want it, then all you have to do is make up the bracket (and a joiner)

As for the belt you could use a belt intended for the no P/S model, its just a matter of selecting the correct length or close to, either in a 5pk or 4pk.
I know such a model existed here, I cant find the belt part number at the moment, just wrap a piece of string around the pulleys and measure it, then you can google to see whats the nearest belt number.
Rockauto may also list a non p/s belt, I havent looked on there however.

**RbluEMx6** · 5-7-12, 13:44

Ran into another snag.

I need to have my fabricator move the wastegate tube closer to the radiator so I can have room for the guide plates. Then Ill see if he willing to cut and extend the rec/drier line to move it inside the engine bay rather than its original locations.

On the plus side. I already had an assortment of new orings laying around. So that saved some time and money.

**chief tool** · 5-7-12, 17:35

is the compressor going to fit in that space even if you move the wastegate tube ?

I've damaged alot of compressors thanks to the heat from my downpipe ruining the compressor rear seal, you might want to heat wrap your down pipe to slow that problem down.
There are shorter compressors available (like the delphi), but there is more custom work with brackets and pipes

**RbluEMx6** · 5-8-12, 21:54

The compressor clears and is not any closer than the factory turbo setup. But I have thought about making a heat shield regardless. I have also contemplated redoing the manifold to flip the coldside, but that wont be until much later.

As for the progress of the install, I have everything in but the compressor and reciever/drier. All lines are capped off to not any moisture in. I will have to wait till this sat until my fabricator can redo the wastegate tube and extend the lines for the drier to a new location.