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Old 11-8-12, 22:13   #1 (permalink)
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Join Date: Dec 2009
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Dying here... Need suggestions ASAP...

Ok, so, driving an 89 GT, coolant hose busted on my intake and spewed coolant all over my firewall. Fixed the hose and proceeded to drive home. Drove to the store to pick up some food (about 15-20 minutes after the hose was fixed), started the car, dash lights were a bit dim.. Started driving the car home, about 15 minutes later, the car started sputtering, stereo wasn't working right, nothing was getting enough power... Finally the car stopped working entirely, got a jump, car started fine. As soon as I turned the lights on, it bogged down and died again. At this point, I'm assuming the alternator is dead. Next day I replaced the alternator, charged the batter, attempted to drive. Car worked great for about 20 minutes, and then died again... Same symptoms. Took the battery to autozone... They tested battery, it's fine, but, the battery is not getting charged by the NEW alternator I have, which was also tested and is fine. Leads me to believe, coolant got on the old alternator, blew it and ruined somthing. I can't figure it out, I don't have time to explore it.. One thing is for certain, there is something preventing power from getting to my batter. Could there be a problem with the wireing from the alternator to the batter? Are there any fuses I can check, looked at the ones inside the car, and under the hood, they are all fine. Also, relays are good.. Don't know how to proceed, on limited time as I have to be able to get to work in the morn. Please, any suggestion is a good one!

Again, Alternator is good, battery is good. Power from the alternator is not getting to the battery, voltage reads 12.8 on battery when car is off, and when it is on, it reads 12.8v when it should be reading 13-15...
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Old 11-9-12, 10:30   #2 (permalink)

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Quote:
Originally Posted by MDR_mx6 View Post
Ok, so, driving an 89 GT, coolant hose busted on my intake and spewed coolant all over my firewall. Fixed the hose and proceeded to drive home. Drove to the store to pick up some food (about 15-20 minutes after the hose was fixed), started the car, dash lights were a bit dim.. Started driving the car home, about 15 minutes later, the car started sputtering, stereo wasn't working right, nothing was getting enough power... Finally the car stopped working entirely, got a jump, car started fine. As soon as I turned the lights on, it bogged down and died again. At this point, I'm assuming the alternator is dead. Next day I replaced the alternator, charged the batter, attempted to drive. Car worked great for about 20 minutes, and then died again... Same symptoms. Took the battery to autozone... They tested battery, it's fine, but, the battery is not getting charged by the NEW alternator I have, which was also tested and is fine. Leads me to believe, coolant got on the old alternator, blew it and ruined somthing. I can't figure it out, I don't have time to explore it.. One thing is for certain, there is something preventing power from getting to my batter. Could there be a problem with the wireing from the alternator to the batter? Are there any fuses I can check, looked at the ones inside the car, and under the hood, they are all fine. Also, relays are good.. Don't know how to proceed, on limited time as I have to be able to get to work in the morn. Please, any suggestion is a good one!

Again, Alternator is good, battery is good. Power from the alternator is not getting to the battery, voltage reads 12.8 on battery when car is off, and when it is on, it reads 12.8v when it should be reading 13-15...
Check your fuses in the engine bay and check to make sure you have continuity between the alternator wire and the fuse block

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Old 11-9-12, 10:38   #3 (permalink)
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Well, I'm looking at a wiring diagram.. The diagram says there are suppose to be 3 connections to the alternator.. But, I only disconnected two from the old one when I put the new one in.. The fuses in the main fuse box in the engine bay are all good. How do I check continuity? Use a multimeter from the pos. bat. post to the plug on the alternator, or the wire that screws into the back?
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Old 11-9-12, 16:20   #4 (permalink)

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the one that screws onto the post, that's your charging wire.

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Old 11-10-12, 19:51   #5 (permalink)
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You might have to get a new wire harness, but before you do VERY carefully check the existing wires for breaks/worn away jacket. Also, are you SURE the alternator is good? I've experience DOA alternators that were bought from the local auto parts store.

89 MX6GT (Eibach, KYB, Magnaflow 2.25", Konig, Glowshift triple, chipped), see
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Old 11-11-12, 12:45   #6 (permalink)
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Ok, so, yes, the alternator has been tested more than once, the battery is good, just tested again yesterday. Here's a new clue, the computer thinks the alternator is charging and working fine, otherwise, while the car was running it would have the charge light illuminated on the dash. But, while the car is on, and the engine is running, the charge light is off which means the car recognizes the alt, sees that it is working right. Which means that there has to be a prob with the charge wire.. That's the only other explanation.. I was going to test it by taking a jumper cable and hooking one end to the charge terminal on the alt and the other end to the pos post on the battery to see if it's a bad connection on the charge wire.. I just didn't have time, but I'm taking it into a shop tomorrow morning. Hopefully I can have the work done by tomorrow afternoon.. This is really starting to cut into my work schedule...
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Old 11-11-12, 23:03   #7 (permalink)
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Welcome to the "old car club". Last week, I floored the accelerator on the way to work and blew off the boost hose connection. That's what I get for installing a boost controller and cranking up the boost. It does come in handy, though when a pesky RSX-S is around.....

89 MX6GT (Eibach, KYB, Magnaflow 2.25", Konig, Glowshift triple, chipped), see
http://www.conceptualpolymer.com/MX6...teLite16s.html
01 Corvette Z51 Coupe (some mods)
08 MX-5 PRHT (MS intake, Progress, Koni, RB)
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Old 11-15-12, 23:57   #8 (permalink)
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Ok, so, turns out the 89 gt's had two different alternator designs.. The first half of 89 models had a three plug alternator design, the second half of the year, or at some point toward the end of the year, the later 89 models moved to a two plug alternator which is the same as the one they used on the 90-92. So, Advance Auto Parts gave me the wrong alternator.. Got the right one, put it on the car, battery charging fine (all connections are good). That was last night, but I did notice, however that the idle has been constantly between 1400 and 2000 RPMs, never dropping below 1300 even when the car is warm. When I engage the clutch in neutral, my engine idles at about 1600 rpms, but bounces down to 1000 then immediately back up to 1500 or so. This morning I got in the car, drove it to work, everything is fine. I get off work, go to start my car, the [fizzle]ing charge light is on... but very dim as well as the light with the lamp symbol on it that says "rear" (Which is never on when the car is running, even though my reverse lights are out). So, I sit and let it idle for a bit, turn the headlights on and the charge light on the dash lights up like a christmas tree... Which means the alternator wasn't producing enough power to charge the battery. Went to AutoZone, tested battery, batttery good. But now the new alternator that replaced the wrong alternator they gave me is burned out.. I am at a losss.... There is a problem somewhere that is causing me to blow alternators and this all started when I blew that coolant hose on the intake manifold.. I'm driving an 89 GT by the way..
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Old 11-17-12, 19:24   #9 (permalink)

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Check the engine codes first, might give you a hint to what's wrong. Also don't forget to reset the ECU when you fix/replace something. Your problem is def electrical, perhaps a bad ECU?

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Old 11-18-12, 3:07   #10 (permalink)
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which hose did you blow? May be able to jar some memories of what's in the area...sounds like a loose ground or charge wire...as far as different alternators, I've never ran into one too different to use in another car, all my cars were 89s until I got a 90 about 5 years ago, and I literally took 3 alternators to az and tested them and put the best/cleanest one in the car, and it drove on it until about a month ago when I decided to part it...I've also never looked for a different kind of alt, though...
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Old 11-20-12, 18:22   #11 (permalink)
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Well, it turns out that the Ignition cylinder or something like that shorted out. It's that little plastic module on the back of the ignition switch.. Anyway, seems like that killed the original alternator and after I put the new one in, it worked fine for a while, but finally went out totally two days later. Had that replaced and it's charging again. But I'm still dealing with a strange idle issue now.
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Old 11-25-12, 22:15   #12 (permalink)
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Ok, so I was driving down the road about a 120. Pushed the clutch in and let it idle, car started trying to die. I wasn't far from home so I just hobbled to my garage. Popped the hood and found that the hose running from the valve cover directly into the intake (Not to be confused with the hose running from the valve cover to the VAF housing) has popped out of the valve cover and was creating a terrible hissing noise. So I put it back into the valve cover, terrible crappy "I want to die" idle became 1500 rpm "I'm really excited" idle. I got curious and I pulled it back out again and plugged it with my hand... Voiala, the idle went down to normal and no more jumping when in neutral and clutch engaged. I'm not sure what this means... Any Ideas?
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Old 11-26-12, 13:53   #13 (permalink)

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menas you have a bad PCV valve

88 626 4WS Turbo Noble White
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Old 12-4-12, 22:53   #14 (permalink)
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Zach, you're the shizznit! I didn't realize that was a valve. Turns out that the PCV valve has been busted for a long time. Just replaced it and noticing a huge difference!!!! Thanks man, learn something new every day!
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Old 12-5-12, 7:16   #15 (permalink)

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werd...glad you got it fixed

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