Hello. I've been puttering with cars for a few years now, and have recently purchaced a 1991 Mazda B-2200 pickup w/ Automatic. After some gruelling searces, I've found some scant bit of information on performance combinations which seem to be fairly simple and common. Unfortunately, this is very widely scattered. I would like to verify what I've found, and what you all have tried (sucessfully, and not-so-sucessfully), so that I (and others) might have a solid, detailed Technical Reference on these engines.
Now, for the Basics:
FE: 2.0 L, 86mm Bore, 86 mm Stroke, Non-Interference, Timing Belt, 8 Valve head, 35.5 mm Piston Compression Height, 152 mm Connecting Rod Length, Dished Piston Crown (unknown cc's), shorter Deck Height, unknown Cylinder Head Chamber cc's, unknown Valve Diameters and/or materials, Oil restriction made into Head Gasket.
advertised compression ratio ~ 8.6:1
FET: Same as above, except for different pistons and/or head chamber to give advertised compression ratio of ~7.6:1. Non-Intercooled Turbocharger with ~ 7psi boost, Fuel Injection.
F2: Stroked FE; 2.2 L, 86mm Bore, 94 mm Stroke, Interference, Timing Belt, 8 Valve head or 12 Valve Head, Heads Different between FWD & RWD Applications, ~37 mm Piston Compression Height, 158 mm Connecting Rod Length, Dished Piston Crown (unknown cc's), taller Deck Height, unknown Cylinder Head Chamber cc's, unknown Valve Diameters and/or materials, Oil restriction made into Block.
F2T: Same as above, except for different pistons and/or head chamber to give advertised compression ratio of ~7.8:1. Possible HD Valves; Intercooled Turbocharger; 12 Valve heads.
Now that you've managed to get through the infamous wall of text, let me explain why I've been looking for this type of obscure data, and what my goal is.
First, I want to be able to make reasonably accurate calculations of static compression ratio, dynamic compression ratios, rod length to stroke ratio, and piston dwell, etc.
Secondly, I want the information to be available for other would-be experimental tuners.
My specific goal (aka, what I am building for), is a radically fuel eficient, carbureted engine build combination (ie, 35-65 mpg city, higher highway), which can be assembled with mostly stock components, and can achieve high daily-driver reliabilty.
I have read of one approach involving HOT fuel induction and a very mild compressed/homogenized induction system (search for Henry 'Smokey' Yunik's 'Adiabatic Engine')
What type of build I am considering is as follows:
F2T Short block, with NA (High Compression) pistons, the higher the better (stock pistons, not aftermarket). This will seem to go against the grain, for typical detonation/turbo compression 'rules of thumb'.
F2 8 Valve Head (B-2200) for stock distributor location, etc. Possibly FET Head, if same distributor location/layout (I haven't found any information as to those details), and possible use of FET Cam/Valves for Turbo-Optimized Valve Timing/Valves/Camshaft.
At this point, I have a NA engine with provisions for oiling a turbocharger, which doesn't have to be used, I could bypass/plug the oil passages, and just run NA with no ill effects.
Should I decide that a Turbo is worthwile, I would swap the NA F2 exhaust for the FET Exhaust manifold/turbo assembly, and fabricate the necessary exhaust plumbing to the tail-pipe as necessary. This would also involve re-working the intake side, likely by removeing the Carburetor and placing it upstream of the Turbo (ie, Draw-Through setup).
To avoid detonation, I would switch to a homogenous Hot Fuel induction, and possibly alternative fuels exclusively (ie, propane, cng, or E-85), to better optimzed for efficiency.
My eventual goals is for a low-end torque build, with early rpm, low-boost (ie, less than 15 psi), on a static CR of ~ 9.5:1 (or what can be achieved by the best HC Piston Combination), resulting in a Dynamic CR of ~ 14:1-16:1, ideal for ethanol's ~ 106 octane properties, and well suited to the anti-knock of internal evaporative cooling (ie, water injection into the intake charge)
Ethanol is also ideally suited for vapor-phase mixing, due to the fact that it boils before 175 degrees F, which is very cool for a thermostat around here.
I would like to see something along the order of ~135 hp, and ~ 35 mpg city, 55 mpg highway, on E-85 (Ethanol, or Moon-Shine LOL). If 85 octane regular with also work, with the same mpg, so much the better.
Please feel free to share any Information & Experience that you might have.