I changed my timing belt, camshaft and crankshaft seals and now my car will not start. Whenever I do a timing belt change I always set the timing belt on the crank at TDC and the camshaft at 1 before I even take things apart. Then I try not to move things much so its all pretty close when I put things back together. I have fuel and strong spark. The car cranks really fast and strong like a car with a broken timing belt, but I checked it and all is turning. So tomorrow I will put the crank on TDC and check to see if the number one piston is in the full up position. The number one piston being the one closest to the timing belt.
So are these the symptoms when I get the crank and cam out of sync? I have the pin for the cam on the number one, but for some reason it does not look like its all the way on. The pin does not go through the washer like it did before.
Does anyone have any suggestions?
The F2 is a non interference engine it sounds to me like the camshaft sprocket is not clocked on the camshaft correctly. It is probably 180 degrees out if I had to guess at it. All though #1 on the sprocket is pointing up the cam can be in the wrong position. But I would think that if the sprocket was not on all the way and if it was in time, it could still possibly run but the sprocket would have an obvious wobble when running or cranking. Just a guess but I could be wrong. Hope you get it figured out.
There is no wobble on the camshaft. I will take it all apart tomorrow and realign everything, and see why the camshaft pulley is not all the way on. It just cranks so fast like there is no compression. I have just heard of people getting them out of sync, but not sure how that happen. I have owned the car for 20 years, and have 325,000 miles.I have done the timing belt about 4 or 5 times. This is the first time anything wrong has happened.
I am not sure if I should rotate the camshaft or the crankshaft one full turn to get things back where they should be for compression. Sorry if I do not make sense, because I do not understand it. I can just take things apart and put them back together the way they were (except this time).
If I'm not mistaken, when the notch on the crankshaft sprocket is line up with the mark on the oil pump (upwards) and the camshaft sprocket #1 is pointed up, the alignment pin on the camshaft should be pointing to....Well hell I forgot, just find top dead center and turn the cam until both valves are closed on #1 if all else fails. But mt gut tells me the pin points up. But I don't think I have ever had one where the alignment pin had come flush through the hole on the washer end. I made the same mistake years back with the cam not thinking I had moved it.
interesting. Seems like I always put the camshaft at one and the put the harmonic balancer at the TDC according to the cover. Which would really rotate the crankshaft key to about the one o'clock position. Looking at my Haynes repair manual 1983 - 1990 it says the way you say. The key would be in a straight up position. I never really use this manual because it is really a 1983 - 1987 manual with a 88-90 supplemental. So it is missing a lot. I will try this tomorrow if all my timing marks looks good for what I originally tried to do. But again. I have never done it this way before.
Another thing just really quick, the slack in the timing belt always goes to the tensioner side. If not, when you tighten your belt up it, you will "normally" end up out of time as it has a habit of moving the crank and or camshaft out of position taking up the slack.
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