Heater problem.. HELP ASAP!!!! - Mazda MX-6 Forum
 
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post #1 of 15 (permalink) Old 2-21-13, 1:44 Thread Starter
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Heater problem.. HELP ASAP!!!!

Hey Guys, Im new to this forum and today i bought what i thought was a good Mazda Mx6 turbo.
I drove it yesterday and it was faultless get in it and drive home today and water starts coming out of the heater all over my carpet.
Take it back to the guy who says hes never seen it.
The water come out of the heater which i guess is fed by the radiator which means losing water from the radiator. Which would explain the high running temp. 3 quaters up the gauge.
there was also a white kind of coloured mist coming from the heater vents near the windows and in the console. with the heater turned off. turning the heater on stopped it slightly.
So how can i stop the water getting to the heater or which fuse do i pull to kill the heater to try it without one?

Any help is greatly appreciated.

Cheers, Rhys.
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post #2 of 15 (permalink) Old 2-21-13, 2:03 Thread Starter
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the heater also sounds like its got boiling water in it. when running and when shut off.
It also makes a high picthed kind of squealing noise.
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post #3 of 15 (permalink) Old 2-21-13, 2:25

 
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Your heater core has split.
Welcome to the club. If your hadn't had its core replaced by now I would have been suprised.

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84 626 sedan RF diesel, a slug but you get 6.0L/100km (39MPG)
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post #4 of 15 (permalink) Old 2-21-13, 2:30 Thread Starter
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Thanks for the fast reply!!
where can i get a new heater core and how much?
How hard are they to replace?
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post #5 of 15 (permalink) Old 2-21-13, 3:39

 
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and they can be difficult to replace depending on your experience. You need to pull the entire dash.
But it is possible to do it in under 2 hours.....If you havent done one before, allow a whole weekend.

84 626 sedan FE SOHC turbo, FE3 on hold, Toyota E58 conversion under way - slowly!
84 626 sedan RF diesel, a slug but you get 6.0L/100km (39MPG)
07 Mazda 6 MZR-CD 6sp manual - new DD
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post #6 of 15 (permalink) Old 2-21-13, 3:46
 
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Well the car isn't roadworthy so don't drive it like that!

It's a might bit of work to get to the core and R&R, although i've not done it on an mx6 before. If you really need to drive the car, you can disconnect the 2 heater hoses at the firewall and bypass the leaking core by connecting them together with a 3/4" short pipe scrap piece in between. They're clamped just beneath the intake plenum body (on firewall) and aren't difficult to get to.

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post #7 of 15 (permalink) Old 2-21-13, 3:57 Thread Starter
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I was actually just talking to a mate and he said to bypass the core until I can be bothered replacing it.
It should be fine a car doesn't need a heater core to run.
Ill bypass the core and test it on Monday as I'm working all weekend!!
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post #8 of 15 (permalink) Old 2-21-13, 4:03
 
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Just don't stress-kink those hoses.

They both do a loop-da-loop and one heads to an inlet underneath the intake and the other over to a metal pipe that wraps around the front of the block. So basically you're looking at mfg your own U-turn in only inches of space to NOT kink those lines. If you have spare heaterhose type rubber line at your disposal, find some with a 90° already in it, shorten it, and run it to yet another 90° hose bit (with some tube fittings to join all that) but it's worth it if you have to buy some bits, to be able to operate the car.

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post #9 of 15 (permalink) Old 2-21-13, 6:35 Thread Starter
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Grin

I was thinking of disconnecting the hoses at the firewall and just joining them up across the back of the engine bay so it still does a loop but not through the heater..
And I won't link the hoses thanks for that..
What's mfg?
I'm new to all this turbo and Efi stuff.
Only previously owned carby injected cars.
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post #10 of 15 (permalink) Old 2-21-13, 13:29
 
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First, some gurgling sound is normal when you first shut down. It usually goes away in about 15 minutes or so. Second, do plan on a whole weekend if you are going to take the dash apart for the first time. Bad heater cores are a common problem with these cars. I have had to do mine before. Also, aftermarket ones are pices of [shizzle] in my opinion. Try and find a good used one if you can. I hope you get it fixed...I have been there.

It sounds like yours went in the worst way compared to others I have heard about. Mine was clogged almost totally up, plus it had a small leak in it. I tried an aluminum aftermarket one and the fitment wasn't perfect. Then, for a reason I never figured out, it started leak a decent amount of fluid into the passenger side rear floor board. I had enough of it at that point and went junking to get an used one out. It has been in my car for two years now with no problems.

Yes my car is ugly

Last edited by ugly mx6 guy; 2-22-13 at 8:17. Reason: Added somemore content
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post #11 of 15 (permalink) Old 2-24-13, 22:10
 
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For what it's worth, my temp gauge normally sits 3/4 the way up - right in the middle of the letter "M". So when you get it fixed, don't be alarmed if you see that high a temp.

Knock on wood, but I have never replaced my heater core over 380,000 kms. I flush out my coolant regularly and use a quality 50/50 mix with distilled water. Hopefully the rest of your system is in decent shape.

While you have the cooling system drained, it might be a good time to change the thermostat and rad cap. Opinions differ, but I highly recommend ONLY using a Mazda OEM dealer sourced 2-stage thermostat. They're really not much more expensive than the cheap universal ones.

All the small coolant hoses have a tendency to get soft and blow up like balloons. There's a few of them on the back of the engine under the intake manifold etc. It's also a good time to inspect them and replace if necessary. They're cheap, just a little tricky to reach.

Definitely flush and fill it with some good quality coolant and distilled water (or, at least soft water, don't fill the car up from a well etc. as it will cause mineral deposits to form).

I have never heard any gurgling sound from my car - or any other car for that matter. I would not say it's normal and if you hear it for 15 minutes then something is surely wrong. If the gurgling you're hearing is coolant boiling, that's definitely not normal or good. And if it persists for 15 minutes, I would say it's so overheated that I'd plan for a new engine.
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post #12 of 15 (permalink) Old 2-25-13, 20:54 Thread Starter
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Well I disconnected the heater hoses from the firewall and joined them together..
Checked all hoses and they are good.
Put a new rad cap on, flushed the system out and refilled with good coolant and water.
Took it for a good drive and the temp didn't get near half.. So I'm pretty happy with it!
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post #13 of 15 (permalink) Old 2-25-13, 21:05
 
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Sounds like you're back in business. I would strongly suggest a new T-stat though. If you've over heated the car there's a chance it wont work properly any more. If the cooling system was neglected (sounds like it might have been) it could be due for a new T-stat anyway. You wont get full power or fuel economy unless the engine is at the right temperature. Every temp gauge is calibrated differently, but in my car if the temp doesn't reach half, the engine isn't warmed up, and it's not a good thing that it runs cool.
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post #14 of 15 (permalink) Old 2-25-13, 23:42 Thread Starter
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It didn't overheat it just got hot 3/4 gauge hot then I just shut it off!!
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post #15 of 15 (permalink) Old 2-26-13, 15:00
 
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I replaced my heater core a couple months ago. I had to do this twice because the new replacement from autozone leaked on the first drive. The dealer could not get me a new one, although I found some online original part discounters, but they were still over $300. So I went to a U Pull it and pulled one out of an MX6. I could see that it was a good one and was not leaking. So I should be good for a while. I do not know what aftermarket company makes a more quality part than the Spectra Premium I purchased. I used the instruction already posted on this forum. I put a link in at the bottom. There were a couple of differences for my car since I do not have a GT. I do not have the electronic controls for the climate control so that is different. Also I did not have to remove the speedometer cable from the transmission. I just used my hands to unscrew the coupling on the cable. Which is halfway between the firewall and the transmission. Maybe yours is the same.
I also started the job days before I really tore into the dash. I removed the center console and glove compartment and various other parts. I taped all bolts and screws to the part I took off, so it was easy to put back exactly with the right bolt.


http://www.mx6.com/forums/1g-faq-app...h-removal.html (Dash Removal)
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