Hand carved shift knob with on/off push switch. - Mazda MX-6 Forum
 
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post #1 of 9 (permalink) Old 12-15-16, 13:40 Thread Starter
 
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Hand carved shift knob with on/off push switch.

I want the water/meth setup on my 88 626GT to be activated with a steering wheel switch or a shift knob switch, it adds 10psi boost using a factory turbo solenoid and it's useless in 1st and 2nd. Because the steering wheel button would need to be set up like the horn I decided the shift knob was much easier.

Is it me or does google and other search engines suck lately, less and less results despite the fact more and more people are connected.
Been searching and searching for a shift knob with a 12V single button latching switch, push once=on push again=off. Found a couple pictures that led nowhere and a pilot brand shift knob that is no longer available, everything else is a momentary switch, I could swap the button but the design is either round or for automatics (back and forth) but impracticable side to side.

Looked for shift knobs I could add a switch to (this would be easy) if I could find a shift knob with the right shape, I don't want one that you reach down and hit the button.

I looked for 12v single push button latching on off switch with LED and without, 99.9% are 16mm and up in stem diameter, I found two 12mm, one is from the UK but they have north American distributors but the switch is new and not available here, the other is on ebay, from china and ends in 24hours.

To see if it was even worth buying a switch I decided to see if it would fit one in a shift knob, so I cut a cube out of a piece of oak firewood and carved it out free hand to what I wanted, I was thinking a similar shape to the auto shifter, at a slight angle and molded to the hand but not to bulky. This would leave only one way to grab it and reduce chances of hitting the button accidentally.

So it looks stupid but is exactly what I wanted (a bit more sanding is required):





The dark flat area will be where the hole fore the switch will get drilled and threaded.





(Holding it a bit off angle trying to take the picture, Tore my fingers up when sawing through the split log in a vice, when I got all the way through my fingers hit the wood, the hard wood).

The next steps:
-Pilot the hole for the switch and wires, will thread the hole when I receive the switch and know the thread pitch (assuming M12 x 1mm or finer thread) .
-Take a factory shift rod (one swapped for a pace setter short shift) add some length to the bottom to increase the throw below the ball (shorten the travel of the rod above the ball) and add some length to the upper part also (if needed) to get the shift knob in the right position.
-Thread a metal sleeve to M10X 1.25mm, drill out the shift knob to that sleeves outer diameter (use the hole to pass a piece of string through the wiring holes) and Epoxy or PL premium polyurethane construction adhesive the sleeve into the shift knob so it sits in the right position when tight on the shit rod.
-Bevel the bottom of the shift knob and cut a groove around it to hold the boot in place.
-Paint the shift knob in a durable wood protecting paint, probably black.
-Pass the wires and install the switch.
-Install the shift rod and shift knob on the car and wire the switch to the Water Meth relay.

More pics to come.

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post #2 of 9 (permalink) Old 12-16-16, 4:00
 
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That is pretty good, I like that. I had a 1970 Vauxhall that was a 4 speed manual with an electric overdrive unit that had a slide switch in the top of the shift knob.
I have been considering using the same idea to do a dual boost switch. When I used the overdrive on the Vauxhall, I would usually hold the shift knob with my hand around it and flick the switch with my thumb, or sometimes have my palm over the top of the shift knob and slide the switch that way.

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post #3 of 9 (permalink) Old 12-16-16, 18:17

 
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That looks pretty swell. You should post on the FB page, might wet a couple panties

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post #4 of 9 (permalink) Old 12-17-16, 15:06 Thread Starter
 
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Gbilski I have a couple 88-92 626/mx6 automatic shift knobs, they also have a click and release hold button just bellow the shift button. I grabbed them off some cars we parted because I figured the hold button could be used for something like fuel, boost or NOS, we usually threw away everything automatic, transmissions, clusters, mounts, brackets... I don't remember if the hold button is electric, but the knob doesn't screw on like the manual If I recall and if it was used the shift button would float around. It isn't bad to hold but is a bit bulky.

The hold button used as a 2nd stage boost controller would be awesome on a high power auto GT with a built transmission for track use.

Now you've got me thinking Gbilsky, I already ordered the 12mm button but it's from China, even if it wasn't it probably is and I don't trust it to last like the purple LED's I bought locally at an electronics store, 7$ for 5, 3 out of 5 have burned out. So I ordered 2 12mm buttons just in case. BUT if the auto hold button is electric and not too gigantic I can pull it from one of the auto shift knobs I have and modify/try to install the button in the shift knob I made.

I grabbed a factory shift knob and (possibly a second gen) black vinyl shift knob from the drawer of universal aftermarket craptascic shift knobs that accumulated over the years, I will use them to fashion the bottom, possibly cut the factory 1st gen knob apart (it is faded, stained and covered in sticky goo, I would rather tie a dirty sock around the shift rod then use it) and make a glue in insert out of the threaded part and tapered boot lip, then just carve the wood down to meet it. The factory shifer base that the boot goes over is tiny, it's outer diameter is about the same size as the inner diameter of the universal knob Allen key nut rod/insert hole. The base on the black knob is much larger and would probably rip the factory boot.

Figure if I mark the exact front of the factory knob on it's base and install that mark to the exact front of the wood knob it should screw on straight.
(Those last 10 words sound wrong). The other good part about using a factory knob to make the insert instead of round metal tubing is that I don't have to make it or the hole round so there is more then just adhesive holding it aligned.

Will definitely have to change the shifter bushings to even test run this shift knob, the shifter is so loose I can touch my leg with it in 1st/2nd. Might still have some bushings at the shop but I am thinking I might just find something to cut some out of (maybe poly, or aluminum or hard plastic) insert them in the shifter rod and drill a hole to match the smooth necked bolt I decide to use. (Often here with winter salt the bolt rust and the bushings wear the rust away year after year until the bolt is thin and floats in new bushings if it can be removed without it snapping).
If I am doing the bushings I will modify a shifter rod, thinking of cutting a groove along the front or where ever across the spot I will cut the bottom part of the rod off the size of a washer (to use as an alignment tool) then I will take some washer with the same OD as the shift rod 2 or 3 or 4 depending on thickness of the washers and desired travel and stack them between the two parts of the rod, cut a groove in the alignment washer to go over the inserts, clamp everything once aligned and weld it, pull the alignment washer and weld the groove up, clean the welds and paint.

Two pedal warrior thanks it should look less like a hand with the fingers severed off when I'm done. The FB page? You mean Facebook or facebook business or something else?

-------

By the way if anyone running a short throw shifter (extra travel under the car) wants a higher shift knob the sell 6 inch threaded male female extensions that threads in between the rod and shift knob, also there is a samurai sword handle shift knob for sale, it's pretty long and kinda cool looking and a button could easily be installed in the top but with normal shift travel it would probably touch the dash and close the ashtray and turn shifting gears into a cross country ski simulator.

-------

All this has given me an idea for my buddy's car, I shall require a factory 2004 accord 5pseed shift knob, adhesive and a large dildo.

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post #5 of 9 (permalink) Old 12-19-16, 14:16 Thread Starter
 
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A bit of progress.
I cut apart the factory shift knob, removed the excess from the plastic center... It is fairly large/long and the threading is in the tip so the whole thing would have to be used or I cut a 1/2" piece out and try gluing/plastic welding it back together.
I decided to start by simply drilling and threading the wood to M10x1.25, I used an alternator bolt and marked the front using the factory shift knob center to locate the front spot when fully tight. Then kept tapping and testing the wood knob, seems pretty tight (will see how it holds up).
Used a 20mm washer to get an idea of the button position and hole angle , I drilled the hole to 11/32" .
The hard part: Drilling the hole for the wires from the bottom of the knob to the buttons hole, I have no drill press and could only guess the angles, I put a drill bit in the button hole and started drilling at the base to meet it, unfortunately my good drill bit set is at the shop, I have a full set of drill press bits at home but they are short, so I did not have drill bit of the right diameter that was long enough to reach the buttons hole, I used a piece of coat hanger and ground the tip sharp to finish the hole, after 4 minutes of spinning the hanger it met the button hole, I enlarged the button hole to 24/64" and used a small round file to enlarge the last bit dug by the coat hanger. Some might think I am good with a drill but I think I was really lucky, the shift rod hole was originally blind drilled and threaded to m6 x1 to use a battery tie down to hold the knob it the vice with, I got lucky and the knob sat perfectly on the battery tie down so I only had to follow it...

Some cracks appeared on the top after sitting overnight, I finished the fine sanding.


after searching the house for wood adhesives I decided Gorilla glue original was the best choice and after a quick google search, turn out it's a water activated Polyurethane glue that's 100% waterproof, weather proof and expands 3X to fill cracks, I coated the entire knob with gorilla glue using my finger, it expanded everywhere it soaked into the wood, I sanded everything flush and applied a second coat of the glue.

Button hole:

(Hopefully the hole is deep enough for the entire switch and prongs, the wire hole is at the end of the button hole but it has to be farther then the prongs so I can spin the wires as I screw in the button and I want to thread in the button so it's flush or even recessed.)





Wire hole:





The Gorilla glue is tough to sand, it leaves a thick, hard glossy coating, so a light scuffing with very fine sand paper will make it perfect to paint and keep a plastic like finish.

Next I will test it on the car for comfort, hand position, usability.

To hold the shift boot I will either add a tapered loop to the rod itself in the right position or make one out of metal and screw it to the bottom of the shift knob with tiny screws.

When I get the button/switch I will finish drilling and threading its hole, then I will coat all three holes in wood penetrating protective stain, paint the knob, install a small plastic wire sleeve in the wire hole (to be filled with dish soap when I screw in the switch so the wires spin easily), install a small plug a few inches down the wires, the other end of the plug and wires will be strapped and taped to the shifter rod .

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post #6 of 9 (permalink) Old 12-19-16, 14:59
 
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I would thread only the last part of the hole for the switch, thread it only for about 2 turns. You really don't want to be twisting the wires too much. If you are worried about the ability of the switch to handle the current, just add a relay and have it carry the load.

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post #7 of 9 (permalink) Old 12-19-16, 21:27 Thread Starter
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gbilski View Post
I would thread only the last part of the hole for the switch, thread it only for about 2 turns. You really don't want to be twisting the wires too much. If you are worried about the ability of the switch to handle the current, just add a relay and have it carry the load.
My plan was to tape the wires up and spin them as I turn the switch so they don't twist at all but I like your idea of threading the last part of the hole (or the whole thing and removing the outer threads with a drill bit..) I will combine the two and use say half the threads, this should make screwing it in easier because there is nothing to grab on the switch, I plan on wearing a tacky rubber chemical proof glove and hope it will hold the button to turn.

Here is a picture of the switch I ordered:



The injection system currently runs 2 40 amp relays, 1 for the compressor pump and 1 for the meth solenoids and boost solenoid. Both are triggered by 1 ground signal through 1 rocker switch, that signal comes from the tank level float and pressure switch, through the rocker switch and back to the relays as a no load on the rocker/ boost fail safe. I am not sure how many prongs are on the 12v switch, there are probably only 3, Positive in, Positive out and negative in, because it's an LED I can't just reverse to + - in, so I might have to use a relay activated by 12v + from the new button that interrupts the negative current to the 2 main relays.

So my reliability concerns are not with the switches ability to handle current, they are with the LED dying and no longer being able to tell is the system is on or off, the spring binding or breaking, micro switch in the button failing....

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post #8 of 9 (permalink) Old 12-25-16, 13:49 Thread Starter
 
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Made a 2.5" thread on extension, It's threading and stem are the exact length it takes to screw on the shift knob and it starts at the end of the factory shifter threads so 2.5" is the shortest the extension can be without modifying the factory shifter.

I used a rough looking m10x1.25 transmission stud, the one the shift rod assembly support is held to the transmission with.
I locked one end in the vice and added about a half inch of threads until they matched the shifters thread length.
I took a standard threaded A-konnector rod coupler and threaded it to M10x1.25.
I cut the stud to the length need, screwed the coupler on the shift rod and screwed the stud about a thread and a haft into the coupler and welded the couple and stud.



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post #9 of 9 (permalink) Old 4-17-17, 13:13 Thread Starter
 
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Updates:

The shift knob was threaded wood where it sits on the shift rod, it screwed on and stayed tight but I wanted to eliminate any potential future problems, I threaded a rod coupling, installed it on an M10 bolt in a drill and milled it down to 29/64".


Test fitting on a shift rod, with the washer I curved and drilled through, it sits on the top of the shift rod, the wires pass through it and it holds the shift boot in the factory position.


Then I installed the threaded coupling on the shift rod in the car, coated it in glue and put the shift knob on in the correct position and let it cure overnight.



The buttons finally arrived 4 months after ordering them, one has a loose switch and the other had the wrong colored LED, they are the most basic switches I have seen, the LED is set in the back with the anode and cathode sticking out (no resistor) so it was easy to swap the two bulbs.
The thread pitch is metric but it's extremely fine thread M12 x .75, so instead of threading the button into the shift knob I drilled the hole slightly smaller then the button, soldered up the 4 wires and resistor to the button and pushed it into the shift knob.


The basic button design has 4 prongs, 2 are for the toggle switch and 2 are for the LED, it is easiest for me to toggle a ground signal and because I only want the LED on when the button is pushed on, the way I wired it is: 12V to resistor/LED, Ground to signal in, signal out connects to LED ground and powers a relay.
The button has a rubber Oring at the collar, I left it on creating a small gap at the bottom so it can be removed if it fails.
Then I gave the shift knob a final sanding and another coat of gorilla glue.



Still debating whether to paint it black or not.

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