Well I sent you an email, you can post it here to get opinions on my thoughts.
When you say " i really dont plan on beefing it up" what exactly do you mean? the only thing you can do is buy rods with studs which aren't a weak point or needed until making insane engine pressure and record F2T power. Knife edging the crank, boring the block, running wiseco 8.5:1 pistons all weaken the engine.
To me the "beefiest" F2T possible is bone stock with lightly warn cylinder walls, honed and running the cleaned factory pistons and old rings, one step further would be pistons as strong or stronger than factory with 7.4:1 compression ratio. That's as durable as the engine can get but tuning is everything, there are engines that even with the best tune the engines weak point will fail, this isn't one of them. The biggest engine bore you could manage would be 0.050" = 1.27mm, 1.27mm to an 86mm piston is a 0.0147% increase in size, that's almost a 3% increase in displacement but what % of the cylinder sleeve is getting removed, it's probably less then 1/4" but 1/4" is 6.35mm and a 1.27mm bore is 20% or 1/5th of the strength removed, just for perspective 0.0147% in fraction is 147/1000000th.
These engines aren't much at atmosphere, they aren't bad for what they are but they are far from N/A tuned marvels, you can run all the N/A tuned bells and whistles in the world a 3 angle vale job, profiled cam, 12:1 compression ratio, 0decked block, knife edged crank... and any 2.0l 16 valve engine holds more potential. But what the F2T is, an under engineered over build engine with enough air flow to spool large turbos with low enough compression and strong enough to pump massive volumes of forced air. An engine is just an air pump and the f2 isn't much of a pump but under boost the turbo becomes the pump and the engine is just a restriction between the air and exhaust, the F2T is a low restriction engine for boost.