Instructions for Changing shifter bushings?

**Mazda_Speedstar** · 5-14-03, 22:55

Could someone please provide simple instructions for changing the shifter bushings? I hear I simply need to remove the plate from the bottom of the car and unscrew the 2 bushings and replace them? is there anything else to it?

**Caffeine** · 5-14-03, 23:11

In a nut shell:

Get under the car and locate where the end of the shifter is bolted down. A double threaded bolt goes thru it, so un bolt the nut on the pass. side then take off the bolt itself from the driver side. Space is tight, but with some time you can do it.

Next put the bushings on each side of the end of the shifter, put the bolt thru it and bolt it back up. easy.

**SixSick6** · 5-15-03, 0:27

There is also another bushing towards the rear of the transmission, that one cost $11.99 from Ford, might as well change it while you are doing shifter bushings...I'm waiting for mine to come in from Ford.

**Mazda_Speedstar** · 5-15-03, 20:10

Thanks for the instructions caffeine... I got the car jacked up.. ripped off the shield since the screws rusted in :S and Now the two bolts i'm supposed to unscrew seem to be seized... I tried WD40 and my ratchet is too large to fir up there... what did you use if I may ask and do you have any suggestions?

**Cupavi** · 5-15-03, 21:16

I talked to the guy at the Mazda dealership when i bought mine (still have not installed them) and he said in 99% of cases they have to torch em/cut em off. So just buy the 2 bolts and cut the old ones off. My $0.02

**Mazda_Speedstar** · 5-16-03, 0:55

thnx for the info Cupavi... Now I dont feel like a complete retard for not getting it off.. however I do feel like a semi retard for being under my car for about 2 hours trying

**Cupavi** · 5-16-03, 1:39

no problem *wink*

**shannonlujan** · 5-16-03, 14:44

To make the most of your time you need to replace the bushings on both ends of the change control rod (commonly known as the "linkage")

There are two on each end. One end (under a heat shield that is in the way but fairly easy to remove attatches to the bottom ofthe shifter by a bolt with 2 rubber bushings on eachside of the bolt. Remove the bolt, replace the little $2 bushings.

Now do the other side as well. This side bolts to the internal change control rod, same kinda bushings, two more. Changethose too causechances are if the shifter ones are toast so are these.

I ended up replacing $50 in parts trying to get the saggyness out of my shifter and now its stiff as a boner. Too bad my tranny is screwed

**SixSick6** · 5-16-03, 16:13

the part numbers are E7GZ-7A133-A $6.53 each from Ford..you should get 4....and part number E92Z-7L254-A..that is for one...the rear section

SleepCounter · 6-5-03, 15:50

Quote:

Originally posted by SixSick6
the part numbers are E7GZ-7A133-A $6.53 each from Ford..you should get 4....and part number E92Z-7L254-A..that is for one...the rear section

Just bought 'em from Mazda dealer (Kramer Mazda in Calgary). The bushings (4) were $3.44 CDN each (about $2.25 US).

Mazda part number B001-46-062

The dealer had 'em in stock, by the way.

I also replaced the boot at the bottom of the shifter (change lever, Mazda calls it) that keeps all the road gunge out of the pivot. P/N was GJ25-46-090 cost $5.40 CDN.

I also replaced the bolts that go through the bushings (they're different, front one a little longer) but both cost $3.07 CDN P/Ns B001-46-134 and B001-46-133.

The "other" rod that runs parallel to the shifter (change control rod, Mazda calls it) has a rubber bushing at the front end where it fits over a stud in the transaxle. Bushing is GJ21-46-041 and costs $4.24 CDN.

This should be replaced as well as it keeps your shifter positioned the correct distance from engine/transaxle.

All those parts (4 plastic bushings, 1 rubber boot, 1 rubber bushing and 2 bolts) came 2 a total of $29.54 CDN -- around $20 US.

If you're doing any hard shifting, you might wanna invest that kind of time and money -- could save you a lot more time and money in replacing synchros later

Toughest part of the job is getting all the console stuff out of the way in the interior.

**bobgt** · 6-5-03, 16:14

thanx sleepcounter for the part #s the guys at my local dealer are idiots

**Panther37** · 6-5-03, 20:13

Quote:

Originally posted by SixSick6
there is also another bushing towards the rear of the car,that one cost $11.99 from Ford,might as well change it while you are doing shifter bushings...I'm waiting for mine to come in from Ford

Why from ford?

**SixSick6** · 6-5-03, 21:53

the $11.99 one that i found was more expensive at mazda

**Caffeine** · 6-6-03, 0:50

Wow, im surprised you guys had that much trouble getting the bolt off. I used no penetrating grease whatsoever and it came off pretty easy. The only problem I had is working around the 3'' exhuast! That was tough to maneuver.

Anyway, on the tranny side, how are replacing those bushings compared to the shifter? easier? any feedback?

**Orcala** · 6-6-03, 1:50

Hey Sleepcounter, did you change all these yourself??

If so, one Saturday I think we should get together, I will buy you a couple beers and you can help me out in changing all of my shifting-related items.....

PEACE

5-14-03, 22:55	#1 (permalink)
Mazda_Speedstar Join Date: Oct 2000 Location: Toronto Age: 25 iTrader: (0)	Instructions for Changing shifter bushings? Could someone please provide simple instructions for changing the shifter bushings? I hear I simply need to remove the plate from the bottom of the car and unscrew the 2 bushings and replace them? is there anything else to it?
	RIP 1994 MX6 RIP 1988 MX6 GT 1991 626 GT With more lbs of Boost than a Hefty Newborn

5-14-03, 23:11	#2 (permalink)
Caffeine Join Date: Oct 2000 Location: Adult Video Store, Lesbian Section, NH, USA Age: 27 iTrader: (0)	In a nut shell: Get under the car and locate where the end of the shifter is bolted down. A double threaded bolt goes thru it, so un bolt the nut on the pass. side then take off the bolt itself from the driver side. Space is tight, but with some time you can do it. Next put the bushings on each side of the end of the shifter, put the bolt thru it and bolt it back up. easy.
	Former owner : 1988 Metallic Grey MX6 GT 1991 Red MX6 LX auto

5-15-03, 0:27	#3 (permalink)
SixSick6 Join Date: Sep 2001 Location: San Diego, CA, USA Age: 32 iTrader: (2)	There is also another bushing towards the rear of the transmission, that one cost $11.99 from Ford, might as well change it while you are doing shifter bushings...I'm waiting for mine to come in from Ford. Last edited by SixSick6 : 3-23-05 at 0:05.

5-15-03, 20:10	#4 (permalink)
Mazda_Speedstar Join Date: Oct 2000 Location: Toronto Age: 25 iTrader: (0)	Thanks for the instructions caffeine... I got the car jacked up.. ripped off the shield since the screws rusted in :S and Now the two bolts i'm supposed to unscrew seem to be seized... I tried WD40 and my ratchet is too large to fir up there... what did you use if I may ask and do you have any suggestions?
	RIP 1994 MX6 RIP 1988 MX6 GT 1991 626 GT With more lbs of Boost than a Hefty Newborn

5-16-03, 0:55	#6 (permalink)
Mazda_Speedstar Join Date: Oct 2000 Location: Toronto Age: 25 iTrader: (0)	thnx for the info Cupavi... Now I dont feel like a complete retard for not getting it off.. however I do feel like a semi retard for being under my car for about 2 hours trying
	RIP 1994 MX6 RIP 1988 MX6 GT 1991 626 GT With more lbs of Boost than a Hefty Newborn

5-15-03, 21:16	#5 (permalink)
Cupavi Join Date: Feb 2001 Location: Toronto, Ontario, Canada iTrader: (0)	I talked to the guy at the Mazda dealership when i bought mine (still have not installed them) and he said in 99% of cases they have to torch em/cut em off. So just buy the 2 bolts and cut the old ones off. My $0.02

5-16-03, 1:39	#7 (permalink)
Cupavi Join Date: Feb 2001 Location: Toronto, Ontario, Canada iTrader: (0)	no problem wink

5-16-03, 14:44	#8 (permalink)
shannonlujan Join Date: Sep 2001 Location: Abilene, TX, USA Age: 23 iTrader: (0)	To make the most of your time you need to replace the bushings on both ends of the change control rod (commonly known as the "linkage") There are two on each end. One end (under a heat shield that is in the way but fairly easy to remove attatches to the bottom ofthe shifter by a bolt with 2 rubber bushings on eachside of the bolt. Remove the bolt, replace the little $2 bushings. Now do the other side as well. This side bolts to the internal change control rod, same kinda bushings, two more. Changethose too causechances are if the shifter ones are toast so are these. I ended up replacing $50 in parts trying to get the saggyness out of my shifter and now its stiff as a boner. Too bad my tranny is screwed
	So Very Obsessed

5-16-03, 16:13	#9 (permalink)
SixSick6 Join Date: Sep 2001 Location: San Diego, CA, USA Age: 32 iTrader: (2)	the part numbers are E7GZ-7A133-A $6.53 each from Ford..you should get 4....and part number E92Z-7L254-A..that is for one...the rear section

6-5-03, 21:53	#13 (permalink)
SixSick6 Join Date: Sep 2001 Location: San Diego, CA, USA Age: 32 iTrader: (2)	the $11.99 one that i found was more expensive at mazda

6-6-03, 0:50	#14 (permalink)
Caffeine Join Date: Oct 2000 Location: Adult Video Store, Lesbian Section, NH, USA Age: 27 iTrader: (0)	Wow, im surprised you guys had that much trouble getting the bolt off. I used no penetrating grease whatsoever and it came off pretty easy. The only problem I had is working around the 3'' exhuast! That was tough to maneuver. Anyway, on the tranny side, how are replacing those bushings compared to the shifter? easier? any feedback?
	Former owner : 1988 Metallic Grey MX6 GT 1991 Red MX6 LX auto

6-6-03, 1:50	#15 (permalink)
Orcala Join Date: May 2002 Location: Calgary, Alberta Canada Age: 23 iTrader: (0)	Hey Sleepcounter, did you change all these yourself?? If so, one Saturday I think we should get together, I will buy you a couple beers and you can help me out in changing all of my shifting-related items..... PEACE
	Speed Limits Are Only Suggestions. Just Like Pants. Ridding The World Of Ricers. One Vinyl Sticker At A Time ------------------------------------------------------------------------- Custom bent Cat-Back Exaust:::Stainless Steel Oval Muffler:::4" SS TIP HANKOOK VENTUS RUBBER /////\lpine CDA-9813 H/U:::AXIS DDA-449 1200W Sub Amp:::Clarion 10"SVC Sub:::SONY XPlode 12" SVC Sub:::Infinity Reference 5 1/4" Rear/6.5" Front Speakers:::Kenwood KAC-629S Speaker AMP My Ride (UPDATED 06/21/03)