What will usually go first? The timing belt, water pump, or tensioner or idler?
When I got my car it had no record of whether or not the timing service was done, but it was very well maintained otherwise, and I had some of the other records with it.
I already have almost all of the parts, and as much as I'd like to think it's been changed, I'm doing it anyway... Is there a way to tell if it's been done already? (I will check out the exterior of the waterpump and see how "clean looking" it appears, but that's about my only idea).... Any help would be appreciated. Thanks.
our 2.2 engines are identified as INTERFERENCE engine , and that means if the timing belt fails, you are screwed ...
It's recommended every 60 K miles ... Stuff you need do when change t-belt ;
t-belt (of course 0 , new water pump , 2 new seals are good idea too if its leaking (crankshaft and camshaft seals you need special tool )
this isn't a easy job ... it takes 2-3 hrs professional mechanic to do and lots of places WILL charge you between 200-300 dollars for this job... i'm lucky my friend is mechanic , and he hooks me up ..
if you know somebody that does this at home or whatever, it would be the best ...
it looks like you know what you doing ....ok ... i think water pump goes out first , and then its like domino effect..
i made 140K miles on the original t-belt .... how many miles yours has ?
Yeah I think they are interference..... and yeah this wouldn't be the first time I've done this...
I have the following parts:
***Valve cover gasket and PCV valve for when I replace the camshaft seal
***Waterpump w/metal gasket
***T-stat w/all gaskets
***P/S-A/C and Alt belt
***Exhaust manifold gaskets for both sides of the manifold. (the huge one, and the funky lookin one)
I think that's it... I should be good to go when I do this.... any parts I left out?
Originally posted by Dyoel182 Our engines are actually Non-interference, so if the TBelt does go you wont likely break anything. When you change the timing belt I would go ahead and swap out the water pump since its right there.
Check your cylinder compression and if its bad have a leak down test done. Also check your exhuast manifold studs as they are known to work their way loose and cause a leak.
Every time I think I have this topic figured out, another thread starts.
Someone, PLEASE, which is it?
I've heard people screwing up their valves when the T-belt goes, and I have also heard the opposite.
The Haynes and Chilton manual are INCORRECT, Remember that the majority of both of those manuals are covering the FE engine, and not the F2 and F2T engines.
I and others who have pulled heads off F2t's will testify that there is no way the valves could hit the head with the stock pistons.
I've spun the crank around with the timing belt off with no valve contact.
Anyone who got "valve damage" from the timing belt breaking most likely got ripped off by a shop that didn't know if the engine was interference or not, and pulled the head to check, and then billed for "valve damage repairs".
dude flyswat WTF? ...when I bought my timing belt and water pump at Kragen and Autozone and they both said that the engine was interferance, I posted on here and most of you said it was NOT, and THEY were wrong, so I asked AT MAZDA .....MAZDA SAYS THE ENGINE IS INTERFERANCE....are you going to say MAZDA IS WRONG TOO?
So what you are saying is that no damage will happen when the T-belt goes, the car will just shut off and that it?
Ive heard som e bad stories about T-belts breaking, like a friend of mine said that a T-belt broke in his 1st gen Caliver, and it through a rod right through the block or somthing, I can remember excatly whe he said, but I do remember he said the engine was screwed.
So this is somthing I would really like to know, will damage happen if the T-belt breaks on the 1st gen Mx-6 GT or otherwise. Because I have no idea how many miles are on my current T-belt, I don't even know if its origonal...I don't think it would be since the engine was rebuilt before I bought the car.
.040" cylinder overbore, K&N filter, CAI, boost/vac & A/F gauges, 2.5" CAT back exaust (side exit), NGK V-power plugs, Federal Mugal 7mm plug wires, Bosch Disttrubitor cap & button, upper front strut bar, 10psi's, Nissan 280zx hood scoop and air vent.
Originally posted by SixSick6 .....MAZDA SAYS THE ENGINE IS INTERFERANCE....are you going to say MAZDA IS WRONG TOO?
Show me a document published by Mazda that says this and I'll believe it. I wouldn't trust some shmoe behind the parts counter unless he had some reference.
...and Amen to Flyswat's comment about trusting Haynes/Chilton too much. Similarly, I don't trust any "parts counter guys" unless they are looking at and can show me a viable reference (i.e. Mazda dealers' CD-ROM parts database). Unfortunately, some of these counter guys tend to think they know everything without the need to look it up.
i have a f2t apart in my garage. before i pulled the pistons&head i did a check for myself to see if our engines were non-interferance or not. i can say that my spare block is NON-INTERFERANCE. you can believe me or not, but that's what i found.
methman: you were refering to a cavalier. their engines are totally different and could very well be interference engines. thankfully i have no knowledge of those cars and plan to keep it that way!
my timing belt on my 1.6 Le Mans broke once. i had the pedal to the floor when it broke and i was approaching 60 mph. there was no valve contact when it broke and i even cranked the motor with the starter when it died before i realized it was the belt that broke. so i went to carquest to get a new belt and the counter guy said that according to his data base the 1.6 is an interference motor. well guess what. apperantly it isnt. becuase i put the belt on and the motor operates fine. so that goes to show that there are mistakes, typo's, and errors in books, manuals, and databases. or maybe its there just to cover our asses.
1988 MX6 GT
1989 MX6 LX
1994 Ford Ranger XLT 3.0 2wd 5 spd Supercab
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