Few rust questions

**WAGON** · 2-4-04, 23:44

I jus got done striping my interior, and there is a a couple small rust holes on the floors, how would i go about fixing those? welding aluminum to the bottom and then bondo the top?

**drsjr1980** · 2-5-04, 0:51

Umm..you can't weld aluminum to steel. I would rivet tin or sheet metal to the floor from the inside and put some sealant in between the metal and the hole. Maybe even clean up the rust and cut the rusted edge back a little ways (1/2" or so) so the rust doesn't proceed.

**johniebgoode** · 2-5-04, 8:17

Hey Wagon;
Drsjr has the right idea going on top. Try cleaning up existing rust and treat with an anti-rust treatment such as Reform Endrust. Then apply some sealant or rustproofing over the existing floor, top and bottom.

Aluminum may be a better bet if riviting, but if brazing use sheet metal. Apply some fiberglass Tigerhair over the edges and smooth out. You can further insulate by using some rubber felt paper over the repairs before putting the carpet in.
After cleaning use a little Tigerhair on the underbody, followed by some heavy undercoating.

**Caffeine** · 2-5-04, 8:36

Or cover it with duct tape and spray paint it to match. Thats my plan to pass inspection.

..or just do what they said.

**johniebgoode** · 2-6-04, 10:51

Quote:

Originally posted by Caffeine
Or cover it with duct tape and spray paint it to match. Thats my plan to pass inspection.

Ha, hah......yeah they even make colored duct tape, maybe you can find something close, so you won't even need to paint !

**wezel** · 2-6-04, 12:01

well holes in the bottom don't mean a negative on inspection here. is that the case in the us ? or are you going to use alot of duct tape ?

SleepCounter · 2-6-04, 16:42

Quote:

Originally posted by drsjr1980
Umm..you can't weld aluminum to steel.

I've never done it, but it can be done. I've seen aftermarket wheels (Kragar, I think) with steel rims and aluminum centres welded in.

For this application, not a great idea (not even a good one).

**drsjr1980** · 2-6-04, 16:53

I think you are mistaken SleepCounter, the two can't be "welded" together, you may be able to melt them and have one "in-case" the other one or aluminum may be an insert to the steel housing, but as for them being welded together in a bonded form, it's something I would have to see to believe.

SleepCounter · 2-6-04, 18:11

Quote:

Originally posted by drsjr1980
I think you are mistaken SleepCounter, the two can't be "welded" together, you may be able to melt them and have one "in-case" the other one or aluminum may be an insert to the steel housing, but as for them being welded together in a bonded form, it's something I would have to see to believe.

Well there was something that looked very much like a weld bead joining the outer steel to the inner aluminum. How it worked on a molecular level, I am uncertain (but I do know that aluminum is utilized in steel-making, so there is potential for molecular interaction).

I'm pretty certain the wheel I saw was this one. Cragar calls it "composite", so I presume it's (at least) two different materials. Ask Cragar how they bond it together.

I'm unsure what you mean by "in-case" but if you mean encapsulating the steel part within the aluminum casting, that was not the case here.

**johniebgoode** · 2-7-04, 7:14

Quote:

Originally posted by SleepCounter
How it worked on a molecular level, I am uncertain (but I do know that aluminum is utilized in steel-making, so there is potential for molecular interaction).
I'm unsure what you mean by "in-case" but if you mean encapsulating the steel part within the aluminum casting, that was not the case here.

Hey guys;
Comprehending the basic principles of to weld or not being able to weld are way beyond the scope of most of us "DIY" duct-tapers !
Personally, I'd prefer stainless steel for it's long lasting shine.

**wezel** · 2-7-04, 7:37

yeah. just use some fresh metal.. stainless is the best but also the heavyest and most expensive. If u use ordinary iron just make sure you protect it from rusting again..