Brake Drum Removal question

**cenatix** · 2-9-04, 12:59

I'm trying to change the rear brake shoes for my 88 LX. The problem is I cannot remove the brake drums on either side because they're rusted on. According to the workshop manual, there isn't any bolts to remove to get the drum off. Anyone know the best way to remove the rusted drums?

**magik8** · 2-9-04, 13:03

Did you remove the rear hub nuts (the big axle nuts)? I thought I would mention that since you didn't say anything about it. The hub nut must certainly be removed to get the drum off.

After the nut is off (on both sides), you should be able to remove the drums. A hammer or prying with a couple screwdrivers should do the trick along with some PB blaster. The workshop manual shows how you can pry backwards on the operating lever spring on the back of the drum in order to release the shoes from the drum (if needed). Also make sure you don't have the parking brake on.

**cenatix** · 2-9-04, 14:35

I tried prying it with a breaker bar, sprayed a half a bottle of PB Blaster and that drum is still stuck on. And yes, removed both hub nuts.

**magik8** · 2-9-04, 14:48

I believe that you have to pry on both sides of the drum at the same time with two screwdrivers to get them off. It's a pain, but it will eventually come off.

Darion · 2-9-04, 15:32

One often overlooked problem with drums is that the shoes are close to the braking surface. Old, neglected drums usually incur a ridge along the edge of the braking surface right behind the shoes. This effectively holds the drums on with the shoes acting as the retainers. Most manuals recommend loosening the cables to the drums completly. Maybe even removing them temporarily for the service.

I had this problem when I was changing my shoes (which partly led to the decision to switch to discs). I found that it was the shoes because as I was cranking away with the 3-jaw puller the shoes snapped back into place as the drum suddenly released. Upon inspection, I had about an 1/8th inch ridge on the rim of my drums.

Also, screwdrivers and pry bars will work, but they also exert unneccisary stress on the wheel bearings in the drum. I reccomend purchasing a 3-jaw puller for the job: a proper tool for a proper job done correctly the first time.

Have fun

idle · 2-9-04, 15:58

usually the shoes just wears into the drums and prevents it from getting pulled off.
im not familiar with the rear drum brakes of the mx6, but if there's a shoe adjustment just adjust it all the way down and it should release the drum.
theres usually a hole in the backing plate where the little wheel can be accessed but not all have it. u'll need a pick and a screwdriver to turn the wheel. there's sometimes a stopper to prevent it from turning the other way so u'll need to push that back with the pick in order to get the shoe all the way down.

**magik8** · 2-9-04, 16:13

The adjustment wheel is not accessible, but as I mentioned before, there is a spring mechanism on the back of the backing plate that can be pried outward (I think that direction, it's been a while) to release the shoes from the drum.

**cenatix** · 2-10-04, 8:04

I got the drums off. I pryed the drums with 2 screwdrivers; one on each side. Changed the shoes in 15 minutes and took 2 hours to get the damn drums back on. I adjusted the shoes about every possible way I could and they wouldn't go on. The left rear drum I had to hammer on. It's hard to turn the drum now...it takes a lot of force to move it. Brakes work, but not better than before, but my parking break doesn't have any play so I'm satisfied. With the drum not being able to move, is the wear going to be faster on that side?

idle · 2-10-04, 11:17

ur car might start drifting to the side where the drum wont turn. also i did a rear brake on the car before and adjusted the brakes too tight. it got towed back to the shop cause the brakes locked up. so just be careful. if you can get the drums off easily i suggest you readjust the shoes again.

**magik8** · 2-10-04, 11:36

Did you follow the directions in the factory workshop manual for re-installation? In order to get the drums back on, you have to manually adjust the serrated "operating lever" (shoe clearance adjuster) all the way in. Did you do this and still have problems?

Also, after everything's put back together, jam on a brakes a few times while in reverse to re-adjust the shoe clearance.

**cenatix** · 2-11-04, 8:42

Yes, I followed the directions step by step in the workshop manual and yes, that shoe clearance adjuster was pushed in all the way. That side was more difficult to remove than the other (wheel was hard to turn) so I think that problem was there before I changed the shoes. Brakes don't lock up and the rim isn't hot so I'm not too worried. I think the drum itself might be warped or caved in a little where the shoes seat in.

**johniebgoode** · 2-12-04, 16:29

Rear brakes seem to last forever, but when it comes time for replacement..........it pays to take extra effort with the details such as cleaning, replacing hardware, and machining the drums.
It'll pay off down the road !

**MSGT-R** · 2-13-04, 10:49

I think its time you took it to an ASE certified brake mechanic before you wind up doing some serious damage to you or others on the road...
Don't mess around with steering or brakes unless you know what you're doing (comes under the heading of controllability and safety).

PS: If you have no play in the parking brake, that could be what's holding the shoes open; its been adjusted in the past maybe, and now its TOO tight? Just a thought. Get someone who knows what he's looking at (and buy him lunch).