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Old 2-11-04, 16:22   #1 (permalink)
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Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Boostville, Queensland, Oz, population....Me.
Age: 42
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HELP! Stuck in 3rd

Driving to work this morning, I shift up into 3rd, go to pull 4th and the stick is jambed hard in 3rd. No amount of wiggling or force could get it out. I've got plenty of clutch....well at least i did before 3 hill starts in 3rd!
Any one have any ideas? PLEASE!!

edit* Mods, I've posted this in the Aussie section as well. I'm stuck at work and need some answers. Please don't delete for a day or 2, Thanx.

When they outlaw freedom, only outlaws are free
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Old 2-11-04, 18:48   #2 (permalink)
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Sounds like a bushing problem/ H-plate misalignment inside yer tranny. That happened to my car after a long highspeed run. After cooling down I no longer had 2nd 3rd or 4th gear. I was able to get it out of the stuck gear though (using just about all my might). It was broken anyway, so I figured might as well try and if I break a connecting bar then oh well. But the bar didn't break. Seems as though you need an internal tranny repair
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Old 2-11-04, 19:00   #3 (permalink)
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Can you get the box out without pulling the motor?

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Old 2-12-04, 6:57   #4 (permalink)
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yes. I posted how to do it a day or two ago in some other thread about transmissions. If I can find it I will edit this post with what I typed.

Edit:
Here's what I do. I disconnect the starter and remove it, then disconnect the speedo cable from the transmission. Next I drain it and pull the axles out. You will have to get the axle nuts off to remove the axles and they can be a real bear. For info on how to get those off (if they don't cooperate) search it, many many ways and methods have been discussed and one should work for you. There are two connectors you will need to disconnect (assuming you have a manual, for auto I dunno how many), one bolt holding some wires on top of the tranny along with a bracket for the clutch slave line, and the clutch slave cylinder. While that is disconnected do not push down the clutch pedal, it will blow the cylinder and will need to be rebuilt. With that stuff out of the way it leaves only the mounts and drivers' side crossmember. At this point you can remove the crossmember and the rear lower mount. I simply unbolt the control arm from the crossmember instead of removing the whole thing, I find that easier for me. Now you only have the front and drivers' side mount holding it in. Here is where youo support the motor with something. I tend to use a jackstand and a block of wood, the wood is to protect the oil pan from the jackstand as it may damage it. Once that is supported I'd go ahead and disconnect the front mount, then the drivers' side mount. Now the trans should be just hanging on the engine by the input shaft and the 6 bolts. Just unbolt those six bolts and put something under the tranny to support it (something that is moveable back and forth and side to side. A simple trans. jack is what I use, it cost me $30 at a tool shop to buy. Once the trans is supported slide it off. You may have to wiggle it and turn it some to get it off, but it should come off without too much trouble, unless something is seriously [fizzle]ed up. As for taking it apart, I have never done it before so I don't feel qualified to tell you how. I have seen it done many times and probably could tell you, but not having done it myself I don't want to tell you the wrong things to do

Tommy ~ 88MX6GT ~ HybridMX6 ~ BoostedMazda (I have too many names)
1998 Ford F150 4x4 Supercab Longbed - Stock and stayin that way.
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Old 2-12-04, 8:36   #5 (permalink)
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Same thing happened to me months back. After assessing the internal damage, in short a low milage replacement was much more cost effective.

Former owner :
1988
Metallic Grey
MX6 GT

1991 Red MX6 LX auto

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