going MS...

[n2o_matt]

yeah, i thought about it. But its hard for me to spent $72 + shipping to insure that my injectors are perfect, when my engine only cost me $55 haha.

This is engine is really just for me to learn MS and have fun on till i blow it up (i see n2o in the future if it lasts that long ). Then I'll buy an FE3 at which point things will be done right...

thanks for the help though

[Zach]

Hey Matt, ever get your daughter board to fit in the top half of the case? If not, I'll post a pic of mine to show you how it's done

[n2o_matt]

yeah do that! i think i'm gonna have to go waste some k to avoid the evil "you must..." message.

[Zach]

Alright, this is with the P5, P8 and ribbon cables attached. Also, if you're having a hard time with the daughter board up top fitting, sand the sides of the board down a bit. also, if those variable resistors are too high, or if any other component is too high, re-solder them so they get lower

2.2 board in the bottom half


daughter board in the top half


this shows you the clearance and which slot to use


here they are sandwiched together

[n2o_matt]

thanks man - The group of pins that the ribbon cable connect to where too high of the board o that it hit when i tried to slide it in. That took well over an hour to de-solder so that i could move it flush with the board. Now my problem is that i can't hardly close it b/c of all the wires? Where do you have your extra FETs for ISC and ignition? and where did you have all the extra wires exit/enter the case? (VR signals, ignition signal, ignition ground, ect.)

thanks man.

One other question regarding my new walbro. I never noticed this before, but when i turn the key to on, the fuel pump turns on , and does not stop running. Funny thing is, I killed the engine by pulling on of the injector plugs out (testing for a bad injector) and the pump stopped

Is that normal? for some reason i was thinking that the pump is only supposed to run a few seconds to prime the system.

[compnut21]

Originally Posted by n2o_matt

I never noticed this before, but when i turn the key to on, the fuel pump turns on , and does not stop running.

depends on your ms settings. try unplugging megasquirt and see if it still turns on by itself.

[n2o_matt]

Originally Posted by compnut21

depends on your ms settings. try unplugging megasquirt and see if it still turns on by itself.

yeah, its turning on by itself, with no MS. Maybe I just didn't notice it before with the stock pump

Fixed that one frozen injector by tapping it with a small hammer and testing for a click with a 9v bat. I'm running some injector cleaner just to make sure everything is going smoothly.

New problem: after trying to fit my daughter card into the stock MS case I'm getting the tach spikes that I was getting back on page 9. The bad part is that I don't know how i fixed it last time, they just kinda went away.

I'm also getting bad misfires at about 9psi and 5000+rpm that feel like an ignition problem. (Changed plugs/HT lead - nothing) It also reminds me of what was going on back on p.9, but I said my problem was that I was too rich - i'm showing like 10.8-11.0 when it misfires

[LARKEN]

I ended up bypassing the stock fuel pump wiring and running a separate relay controlled by MS. The stock system is triggered by the starter.
You have fix that tach spike first before you can tune it.
That miss at 5000+ is probably in the VR adjustment pots.
Putting the coil drive in the MS box may be adding noise on the VR circuit, thats 350 volts or more close to VR's 0.5volt signals

[n2o_matt]

I ended up bypassing the stock fuel pump wiring and running a separate relay controlled by MS. The stock system is triggered by the starter.

Like it shouldn't start unless the key is first turned to "start"? B/c right now my pump is turning on as soon as I turn the key to "on". But who knows, some of my wiring is pretty fubared b/c of some "fixes" that I tried to do a few yrs ago. I should prob start over and use a MS controlled relay like you are.

You have fix that tach spike first before you can tune it.
That miss at 5000+ is probably in the VR adjustment pots.

Today i decided to try and lean it a bit up there, b/c after looking at my logs I saw that it was getting richer than I thought by trying to watch the gauge. It got way rich just before the misfire, and i guess by the time i saw it on the gauge it was showing lean since it wasn't burning.

So its running great when I'm at WOT, but a some rpms (esp ~1500) during cruise i can watch the tach jump around and feel the car stumble. It also shows up in the logs as jagged teeth looking spikes in rpm. I tried messing with the pots, but the ones on my board seem to have no stops and adjusting them randomly didn't really seem to change anything. Is there any good way to do this with out an oscilloscope?

Putting the coil drive in the MS box may be adding noise on the VR circuit, thats 350 volts or more close to VR's 0.5volt signals

I didn't realize the coil driver was 350 volts - thats crazy. Why is it so high? I thought it was just a trigger for the coil.? Where do you have yours?

thanks for all the help, k given.

[compnut21]

p.s. my fuel pump only turns on in the start position, and when ms tells it to. from stock the ecu, start position, test jumper under hood, and the vaf are the only things that control the fuel pump.

[n2o_matt]

Zach, do you happen to have any pictures (or just a description) of how you fit all the wires in the case?
Basically, where do you have your extra FETs for ISC and ignition? and where did you have all the extra wires exit/enter the case? (VR signals, ignition signal, ignition ground, ect.)

thanks.

[Zach]

I think compnut and I counted a total of only 8 wires will be actually be used. I believe two wires from the main ribbon cable, the 5/12+/ground plug, and VR Sensor 1 wires + launch control. I just have to get off my ass and get them connected

Once I have them connected, I'll be posting a picture of it's set up. But for the other wiring, I'm using Cat5e solid copper wiring.

[n2o_matt]

Thanks. Yeah, there really aren't that many wires, its just a real tight space to get them in. I think that i'm also prob using too large of wire (like 20ga) if your using cat5 strands. I also screwed myself by making most of the wires as short as possible (to try to save space) and now it is coming back to haunt me b/c i can't separate the case halves without unplugging the daughter card...

I think i'm going to start from square one and rewire all the internal wiring. Now before i just screw this up again, let me get some opinions on this stuff:

1. Right now i'm using a DB15 connector for all my extra inputs/out puts to the case (VR signals, ignition signal (to coil), ignition ground, ect.) Is it a bad idea to have these on the same connector?

2. I'm thinking that I should use shielded wire for the VR sensors, do I need to shield the VR grounds too? How small should i go? The megamanual seems to suggest 18-20ga for all sensor wiring - but that cat 5 you were talking about is quite a bit smaller.

Thanks for any input

[Zach]

As for the noise issue, guess what fills up a phone "closet" or network room? You guessed it, solid core copper stands. These wires also carry voltage/signal very well, as the signal only has to travel through one wire, instead of many.

[compnut21]

also side note: zach is gonna be using an igniter, not a vb921/bip373.