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#2 (permalink) |
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Unless you're a Gavin and want the lightest AutoX machine in the world evAr, you may as well just fix your power windows. It'd be more effort removing the power window support hardware and installing the manual parts from a DX than it would be to simply fix the power windows
![]() Someone should have some power parts around, and SURELY someone has a DX spare that they can get the regulators, handles and doorcards from. Just remember, downgrading is a drastic step and will involve many parts... |
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Moderator - one who arbitrates
Dictator - one ruling absolutely and often oppressively Contrary to popular belief, these are not the same things... |
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#3 (permalink) |
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4WS Freak
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You probably just need a new switch. I am already on my spare or i would offer you one. Hopefully you can isolate the problem and get her working. Good luck, I'll keep my eyes open at the local wrecker for ya tomorrow when i go.
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Noble White 626 turbo 4WS 5spd. Intake, exhaust, turbo timer =reliable daily driver.
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2525741 |
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#4 (permalink) |
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Thanks. But I'm pretty sure it's the whole motor assembly. I've had the door skin off and the little ball/link things were slipping (making the window lurch down when i hit the button) My dad and I fashioned a way for them to work pretty smoothly. but now it's completely dead.
I now have 2 options here. I can keep the car, fix it,and sell my new racing kart (pics on myspace link) or keep the kart and scrap the car. I love the car to death but it is just so far gone. Too many things to list. It would cost more to keep/fix the car then to race/maintain the kart sooo.... I'm prolyl gonna get another car. I'd liek to get another 6 but i don't know... Thnx again for teh help. |
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#5 (permalink) | |
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Quote:
Just get the assembly from any 88-92 power window 626/mx6, the brackets are different lenghts but the motor's are the same, so swap the motor, the assembly comes out of the door very easely, (5 (m6) 10mm bolts, 2hold the window and 3 holt the assembly). You can test the motors/assembly's, just unplug the motor and supply 12v directly to it, (2 long wires from your battery or use a booster pack or battery charger) then reverse the polarity's to change dirrections. I know alot of members have had switch problems, but most of ours have very slow widows due to old and tired window motors. The 626 motors (front doors) are much faster (usualy) due to the smaller size of the glass they have to move. Using 12v directly to the motor will rule out or confirm switch problems. I understand that its the beed track thats slipping, inspect the beeds for damage, it could be the piece that catches them. [quote=carcenomy;1748271]Unless you're a Gavin and want the lightest AutoX machine in the world evAr, you may as well just fix your power windows. It'd be more effort removing the power window support hardware and installing the manual parts from a DX than it would be to simply fix the power windows ![]() I have a couple of manual assembly's and they are about the same weight and size as the automatic assembly's, the handle and the button pad probably weigh the same, maybe the DX door skin weighs less? the only weigh reduction I could see, would be to pull out the wires runing in the car for the power windows, or you could just spit out your gum before the race. |
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http://www.cardomain.com/id/mazdacarnage
BUILD IT, BEAT IT, BREAK IT, REBUILD IT, BEAT IT MORE, BREAK IT AGAIN, BUILD IT BETTER, BEAT IT THE MOST AND ? |
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