Comments on: DIY Megasquirt Installation

**DarkMx-6** · 10-14-07, 18:44

[
Comments on: http://www.mx6.com/forums/1g-faq-ele...tallation.html (DIY Megasquirt Installation)
]
hope to hear more and karma to you!!

**MazdaMan069** · 10-15-07, 1:44

Nicely done. Karma to you.

I assembled a MS-I unit along with the stimulator v2.2 and cannot get a tach or pulse width signal in megatune. I've done everything in the troubleshooting section except for testing the "555 timer" because the v2.2 stim doesn't use this. Any ideas? (I made an LED tester for testing purposes and the LED flashes for the tach signal at every point mentioned to check. Wtf? ) I'm almost positive it's the stim, but I would rather not risk installing it in a vehicle unless I know it works. In Megatune, it's almost as if the "engine" cranks but doesn't run.

**cenatix** · 10-15-07, 10:54

A little more detail about your setup would be helpful.

v2.2 (green) or v3.0 (blue) MS PCB? v2.1 is the Stim version. How are you firing your coil?

One way to test for an RPM signal is to connect the distributor to MS. Make sure the body of the distributor is grounded and disconnect the coil & injectors, spin the the distributor shaft/rotor and you should see get an rpm reading in MegaTune. If not, go back and retrace your tach circuit.

If your there is no RPM or PW reading with the Stim (but everything else works), you'll need to make sure XG1-XG2 is jumpered on your MS or a jumper to Pin25 to Pin7 on the Stim should fix that (*not positive).

**MazdaMan069** · 10-15-07, 14:11

I have the v2.2 MS PCB, v2.2 stim as well. This one doesn't have the 555 timer or the RPMC pots or anything. All I did was install everything according to the megamanual. D8 is jumpered to bypass the diode unless later needed. Also, yes there is a jumper from XG1 to XG2.
Every point the troubleshooting section had me test, made the LED tester flash, so that tells me the signal is getting to the ECU. I just can't tell where it stops.

**DarkMx-6** · 10-15-07, 17:59

I was waiting for someone to make something like this Thank you so much for pointing me in the right direction. I know in a few years I'll have my FE3-T w/MS. Just like I said I would have a mx-6 GT.

**Gabe17** · 10-15-07, 18:23

Very nice.

One thing to add though, why is it that you are using the n/a distributor?

**cenatix** · 10-15-07, 18:29

Quote:

Originally Posted by MazdaMan069

I have the v2.2 MS PCB, v2.2 stim as well. This one doesn't have the 555 timer or the RPMC pots or anything. All I did was install everything according to the megamanual. D8 is jumpered to bypass the diode unless later needed. Also, yes there is a jumper from XG1 to XG2.
Every point the troubleshooting section had me test, made the LED tester flash, so that tells me the signal is getting to the ECU. I just can't tell where it stops.

If you don't have an RPM pot, you won't get any RPM readings. The same for the timer.

Could you take a picture of the Stim? I have the v2.1 but from the diyautotune website, it appears to be the same or very similar to the v2.2.

Does yours look like this:

Notice the timer and RPM pot.

**MazdaMan069** · 10-15-07, 22:47

Er, sorry...I dohave the rpm potentiometer. I thought there was a difference in that and rpmc? (Just seemed like it, how it was worded in the troubleshooting)

Here's a couple pics of mine..

**cenatix** · 10-16-07, 1:46

So you haven't made any ignition mods to your board? Flip the switch for the RPM pot over to "1". That is for the Hall circuit.

Try reflashing the ecu. Load it with the Extra firmware.

Do you have a fresh battery? Are any of the LED's lighting up? Are you getting any readings in MegaTune?

If all else fails, and you're positive that the Stim is the problem, I would start by replacing the U1 on the Stim.

The RPMC pot is used on the earlier versions of the Stimulator.

**MazdaMan069** · 10-16-07, 2:07

No, I havn't made any ign mods or anything. What do you mean flip the RPM switch to "1" ? Which switch are you refering to? The only switch I know of for the RPM is on the stim and the choices are "PNP" and "NPN". (Set to PNP currently. I've tried both settings)

I will try reflashing tomorrow.

I was using a power adaptor to test, so I had enough power. As for LED's, when I first plug in the power- The IDL and PMP on the stim light and at the same time, the middle light on the ECU lights. About 2 seconds after powering up, the only light that remains on is "IDL" (stim). If I unplug power and re-plug quickly, I can get the middle light on the ECU to stay on as well as the "IDL" on the stim.

I was also thinking the U1 was the culprit. The downside is RadioShack doesn't carry the part and I would have to pay $15 to have diyautotune ship me a new one. If all else fails, i'll get a new one.

Btw, i've checked all of my solderjoints, checked for excessive solder, etc etc etc. I've researched this problem for so long and i'm just really stumped.

**fredio54** · 10-16-07, 11:05

nice write up! "must spread..."

its worth pointing out that with a bit of extra circuitry and/or some gt dizzy mods you can have it running with a lot more accuracy during accel events. having said that, you dont really need to, and considering the inertia of an f2... there isnt much point.

if anyone wanted to do it, they need two vr sensor inputs with lifted grounds for the stock setup, OR 2 teeth ground off the 24 tooth section and a single vr sensor circuit.

i strongly agree with your choice to NOT use a relay board, i think they are a problem, not a solution.

its worth noting that the v2.2 board is more susceptable to noise, and not capable of running low imp injectors without another board, or inline resistors.

keep up the good work :-)

fred.

**fredio54** · 10-16-07, 11:06

Quote:

Originally Posted by Gabe17

Very nice.

One thing to add though, why is it that you are using the n/a distributor?

to avoid doing what i said here ^

**zlyricist** · 10-16-07, 13:11

cenatix you the man. bookmarking this now for when i assemble my MS.

thanks!

k given

**Zach** · 10-16-07, 22:22

Out of your assembly...what's need just to control fuel?

**cenatix** · 10-17-07, 19:55

For use with the N/A distributor? It's possible...you wouldn't want it locked, and it would control your timing. I'm not sure if I would want the N/A distributor to control my timing on a turbocharged car. If you want to go fuel only with the GT disty, you'll need a the tach input from the neg. side of the coil for MS. You just won't have the spark output enabled in MegaTune.

10-14-07, 18:44	#1 (permalink)
DarkMx-6 Join Date: Jun 2005 Location: Keene, TX, USA Age: 22 iTrader: (4)	Comments on: DIY Megasquirt Installation [ Comments on: http://www.mx6.com/forums/1g-faq-ele...tallation.html (DIY Megasquirt Installation) ] hope to hear more and karma to you!! Last edited by Panther37 : 12-17-07 at 23:19. Reason: How-To/Comments Conversion
	91 White mx6 GT: Boosted N/A block, Fidanza, 9 psi, open down pipe 90 Red mx6 GT: No engine 78,000 miles 92 Green mx6 DX: parts car Gone (CRUSHED) 04 Civic: The daily, CAI, No muffler(sounds way better than ricers, people ask what kind of muffler i have cuz they like it LOL) Great on gas

10-15-07, 1:44	#2 (permalink)
MazdaMan069 Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: Marshall, IL, USA Age: 22 iTrader: (2)	Nicely done. Karma to you. I assembled a MS-I unit along with the stimulator v2.2 and cannot get a tach or pulse width signal in megatune. I've done everything in the troubleshooting section except for testing the "555 timer" because the v2.2 stim doesn't use this. Any ideas? (I made an LED tester for testing purposes and the LED flashes for the tach signal at every point mentioned to check. Wtf? ) I'm almost positive it's the stim, but I would rather not risk installing it in a vehicle unless I know it works. In Megatune, it's almost as if the "engine" cranks but doesn't run.
	88' MX6 GT with the soul of an 89'

10-15-07, 10:54	#3 (permalink)
cenatix Join Date: Jul 2003 Location: Green Bay, WI Age: 25 iTrader: (0)	A little more detail about your setup would be helpful. v2.2 (green) or v3.0 (blue) MS PCB? v2.1 is the Stim version. How are you firing your coil? One way to test for an RPM signal is to connect the distributor to MS. Make sure the body of the distributor is grounded and disconnect the coil & injectors, spin the the distributor shaft/rotor and you should see get an rpm reading in MegaTune. If not, go back and retrace your tach circuit. If your there is no RPM or PW reading with the Stim (but everything else works), you'll need to make sure XG1-XG2 is jumpered on your MS or a jumper to Pin25 to Pin7 on the Stim should fix that (*not positive).
	1989 MX-6 GT - SOLD T3/T4, MegaSquirt 'n Spark

10-15-07, 14:11	#4 (permalink)
MazdaMan069 Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: Marshall, IL, USA Age: 22 iTrader: (2)	I have the v2.2 MS PCB, v2.2 stim as well. This one doesn't have the 555 timer or the RPMC pots or anything. All I did was install everything according to the megamanual. D8 is jumpered to bypass the diode unless later needed. Also, yes there is a jumper from XG1 to XG2. Every point the troubleshooting section had me test, made the LED tester flash, so that tells me the signal is getting to the ECU. I just can't tell where it stops.
	88' MX6 GT with the soul of an 89'

10-15-07, 17:59	#5 (permalink)
DarkMx-6 Join Date: Jun 2005 Location: Keene, TX, USA Age: 22 iTrader: (4)	I was waiting for someone to make something like this Thank you so much for pointing me in the right direction. I know in a few years I'll have my FE3-T w/MS. Just like I said I would have a mx-6 GT.
	91 White mx6 GT: Boosted N/A block, Fidanza, 9 psi, open down pipe 90 Red mx6 GT: No engine 78,000 miles 92 Green mx6 DX: parts car Gone (CRUSHED) 04 Civic: The daily, CAI, No muffler(sounds way better than ricers, people ask what kind of muffler i have cuz they like it LOL) Great on gas

10-15-07, 22:47	#8 (permalink)
MazdaMan069 Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: Marshall, IL, USA Age: 22 iTrader: (2)	Er, sorry...I dohave the rpm potentiometer. I thought there was a difference in that and rpmc? (Just seemed like it, how it was worded in the troubleshooting) Here's a couple pics of mine.. Last edited by MazdaMan069 : 10-15-07 at 22:50.
	88' MX6 GT with the soul of an 89'

10-16-07, 1:46	#9 (permalink)
cenatix Join Date: Jul 2003 Location: Green Bay, WI Age: 25 iTrader: (0)	So you haven't made any ignition mods to your board? Flip the switch for the RPM pot over to "1". That is for the Hall circuit. Try reflashing the ecu. Load it with the Extra firmware. Do you have a fresh battery? Are any of the LED's lighting up? Are you getting any readings in MegaTune? If all else fails, and you're positive that the Stim is the problem, I would start by replacing the U1 on the Stim. The RPMC pot is used on the earlier versions of the Stimulator.
	1989 MX-6 GT - SOLD T3/T4, MegaSquirt 'n Spark

10-16-07, 2:07	#10 (permalink)
MazdaMan069 Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: Marshall, IL, USA Age: 22 iTrader: (2)	No, I havn't made any ign mods or anything. What do you mean flip the RPM switch to "1" ? Which switch are you refering to? The only switch I know of for the RPM is on the stim and the choices are "PNP" and "NPN". (Set to PNP currently. I've tried both settings) I will try reflashing tomorrow. I was using a power adaptor to test, so I had enough power. As for LED's, when I first plug in the power- The IDL and PMP on the stim light and at the same time, the middle light on the ECU lights. About 2 seconds after powering up, the only light that remains on is "IDL" (stim). If I unplug power and re-plug quickly, I can get the middle light on the ECU to stay on as well as the "IDL" on the stim. I was also thinking the U1 was the culprit. The downside is RadioShack doesn't carry the part and I would have to pay $15 to have diyautotune ship me a new one. If all else fails, i'll get a new one. Btw, i've checked all of my solderjoints, checked for excessive solder, etc etc etc. I've researched this problem for so long and i'm just really stumped. Last edited by MazdaMan069 : 10-16-07 at 2:11.
	88' MX6 GT with the soul of an 89'

10-16-07, 11:05	#11 (permalink)
fredio54 Join Date: Aug 2004 Location: Auckland, New Zealand iTrader: (1)	nice write up! "must spread..." its worth pointing out that with a bit of extra circuitry and/or some gt dizzy mods you can have it running with a lot more accuracy during accel events. having said that, you dont really need to, and considering the inertia of an f2... there isnt much point. if anyone wanted to do it, they need two vr sensor inputs with lifted grounds for the stock setup, OR 2 teeth ground off the 24 tooth section and a single vr sensor circuit. i strongly agree with your choice to NOT use a relay board, i think they are a problem, not a solution. its worth noting that the v2.2 board is more susceptable to noise, and not capable of running low imp injectors without another board, or inline resistors. keep up the good work :-) fred.
	DIYEFI.org - TRUE DIY engine management Mazda FE3/FE-DOHC Master Index Thread (work in progress) Mazda truck with FE-DOHC/FE3 "BIG like your house" Holset Turbo drinking 2.2 litres of fuel per minute ~= 385hp crank RIP SleepCounter :-( we will miss you! - RIP fredio54 :-( will we miss you?

10-16-07, 13:11	#13 (permalink)
zlyricist Join Date: May 2004 Location: arvada, CO, USA Age: 23 iTrader: (5)	cenatix you the man. bookmarking this now for when i assemble my MS. thanks! k given
	91 GT hy35 build in the works 06 maxima - the daily

10-17-07, 19:55	#15 (permalink)
cenatix Join Date: Jul 2003 Location: Green Bay, WI Age: 25 iTrader: (0)	For use with the N/A distributor? It's possible...you wouldn't want it locked, and it would control your timing. I'm not sure if I would want the N/A distributor to control my timing on a turbocharged car. If you want to go fuel only with the GT disty, you'll need a the tach input from the neg. side of the coil for MS. You just won't have the spark output enabled in MegaTune. Last edited by cenatix : 10-18-07 at 17:29.
	1989 MX-6 GT - SOLD T3/T4, MegaSquirt 'n Spark