Colt Cam

[fredio54]

Originally Posted by compnut21

lucky

I guess that makes me lucky too. Shame for everyone else though.

[BlueInfinity48]

$225 sent to the address on coltcams.com has to be a money order or draft and has to be international

[zlyricist]

does that 225 include shipping back to us in the us of a

[Keeloh]

I just email coltcams.com to ask them how much and about shipping details. Will see if they replay back.

[chief tool]

I expeimented with cams in the 8 valve head, and the results are quite suprising...

I never bothered doing it to the 12v as there are a few other things that will stop it from revving out:
1. longer stroke than the SOHC FE
2. use of hydraulic valve gear (HLAs) rather than solid

Plus I wanted to keep the torque as low down as it is now in the rev range, as its a DD primarily

On the 8v I used a 26/66 (stock is 14/58 or 20/65 depending on the engine)

there was a noticeable increase in torque and it felt more consistent across the rev range (seat of the pants dyno)
However I had to advance the cam about 6 degrees to make it like that.
It started out with the torque very peaky and high up at the factory cam wheel position, which was useless in a road car, and made it slower to drive in outright terms.
thankfully the 8 valve head, you can install the cam sprocket 3 ways for slight variations in timing
I tried it at all three different spots, plus one tooth either side of each spot, 9 different postions in all...so I did plenty of testing...and settled on postion "C" instead of position "A". Each time I tried some different combinations of spark advance in each position, so it worked out to be about 20 different combos to test.

Now, I dont know if any of that info will translate that well to the 12v, although the 12v flows only a little bit better than the 8 valve....
Except to say you'd want to have a vernier cam wheel to make good use of whatever cam you end up using....otherwise there is a danger that the torque curve will narrow, and it'll be a pig to drive fast.

Also if you have to pass any kind of emissions test, forget changing your cam, extending the duration will increase the overlap and your HC emissions will increase by a large margin.

[fredio54]

Originally Posted by chief tool

Now, I dont know if any of that info will translate that well to the 12v, although the 12v flows only a little bit better than the 8 valve....

You reckon? I find that really hard to believe :-/

I've driven 2.0 8v and 2.0 12v NA and there is a large difference in power, much like the one from 12v to 16v.

[chief tool]

I wish I had the figures in front of me, but I remember being suprised when somebody bench flowed the 8v and 12v heads, and there was less difference than I thought.....

but unfortunately I cant back up the info any better than that, except to say that the flow limit of the 8v is about 280hp. dont know what the upper limit of the 12v is.
I believe the exhaust valves in the 12v are actually smaller than 8v, 34mm as opposed to 36mm.
the two inlet valves are 32.5mm vs 44mm on the 8v....if the flow equated just to valve area, then the inlets on the 12v would flow only 10% more....
I know it doesnt work like that....but my point is that its not that different in flow. so the tricks on the 8v head might translate across, in terms of required lift duration and timing.

as for the difference in power between the 12v and 8v 2.0 sohc engines, there were a few other differences, the 12v 2.0 had 9.5:1 comp as oppsed to 8.6 on the 8v, plus the 8v head had three different cam profiles depending on EFI/Carb and the country you live in, pretty sure the 12v was the same everywhere....plus very few AUS & NZ 8v models had EFI where as most of the 12v ones did.


but at the end of the day, your better to piss them both off and get the 16v

[fredio54]

Nicely put :-)

My bosses old 626 had the 90hp fe 8v injection model.

Given that the inlet sizes on the f2t and fe3 are quite similar you could draw a similar conclusion :-) I reckon it's the cam thats choking it hard. Cammed for a 6k redline from the factory.

I'd not be too fast to put power limits on any of them though. The 8v head has made WAY more than 280 before. I still wouldnt give you a six pack of xxxx for one though :-)

[BlueInfinity48]

Originally Posted by zlyricist

does that 225 include shipping back to us in the us of a

yes it does

[ademan]

Originally Posted by magik8

Care to elaborate on this?

P.S. The stock cam does not "suck" as you might assume. It may not have a fancy name like "triflow" and doesn't come with stickers, but it does its job quite well. Try a search on this subject ("SleepCounter", "Corky Bell", "geometry") Everyone seems to think they're an expert at camshaft design, although few are really qualified as such.

there is no theory to back up, stock cam do not suck, i dyno my mx6lx and at 6200rpm, im still making power and the graph keep climbing, i think i dyno 106whp at 55-6k rpm, that was with race gas in the car and 2 step colder plug, the car probably put down close to 115 whp as it sit now on motor, the only mod i have nitrous beside the n20 is open intake and exhaust.
by the way i put race gas in the car that day because i was going to test 150shot but keep hvent problem with the solenoid. so all in all the stock cams are great expecially if you running bigger turbo.

[Keeloh]

I bought one today i should have it in about 3 weeks

[compnut21]

weee! which one did you get?

[BlueInfinity48]

alright man! let me know the outcome in power that way i know, get a dyno done before and after

[Keeloh]

I bought the tri flow. Yes i've been wanting to dyno my sleeper but i need to finish breaking in the t-bird turbo then ill go ill let u guys know

[zlyricist]

im gonna do a before and after as well, with my hy-35. i'll order it when i get time.....