I really want to do this. Why? Because my F2T is being rebuilt and I wrecked my 96PGT so the motor is doing nothing. I don't think it has ever been done so why not try. I like the KL, but when my F2 is ready it is going in. I had just bought Pacesetter headers, KLG4 manifold and Outlaw Spacers just before the accident. Plus I have a 75 shot. I wanna see how quick it will be.
hit up FRCFD on PT. he installed a FE3 into a 2nd gen. mostly using a mix of OEM mounts. so he could probably help you some. even though its the exact opposite.
Well I have te engine mount on a N/A f2 pass mount and a F2T driver side trans mounts. the shift lingage is connected and wont let the motor go back any farther.
I have the Wisecos and Pauters, the oil pump went out and i spun a few bearings. So i have to rebuild. my colt cam was destroyed as was the head.
just getting a new crank, bearings, rings, then the head is being built with Ferrea valve train.
Not sure how fast you till be doing this, but I will be mocking the setup into ont of my cars late this summer...from what I know about mounts...ytou can do it the way you describ ed, but the car will b every torque biased in one direction...when I did my gl to gt swap, I didn't know that mount was different, and ran a while like that, car always pulled the same direction no matter the conditions...I was planning on trying it with both gt mounts for the top 2, then custom brackets for the front/rear trans mounts...not the highest priority project atm, otherwise I would say I could do it soon...got a new dd I wanna get running, and a 1gen mx6 I'll be prepping for a local figure 8 derby race...
I responded to your post on pt for this bit...but here it is again...look under the car where the rear mount should be on the 1gen...the trans will have 2 through bolts where the case halves come together...all the others just go intot he front part of the case...2 go through and have nuts on the other side...a n/a 1gen mount will bolt there, just not sure if it lines up w/ the crossmember, but you should let me know
Oh yeah plenty of room. lol I'm almost done wiring the headlights, turn signals and sidemarkers. Cool thing is that the wire colors are the same, so it isn't that hard, just getting the 1g dash switches and stuff to function like factory.
Thats true, the most annoying part is the dash harness....
But when I did mine on the GC, I decided to wire the power windows so they work without the key in the ignition....something that I hate about cars with power windows!
Now youve got it apart you can modify anything that your not happy with.
This thread is relevant to my interests... Subscribed. :tup:
Swapping entire harnesses is probably much simpler than splicing into the original. Gauges may not work anymore, but at least the ECU connections will be solid.
For those complaining about firewall clearances on the 2g, be happy (if) you have an MX-6 because the PGT has the engine about 1.5" further back in the bay. Sure, that means plenty of clearance at the radiator, but it's a bitch dealing with anything in the back.
I swapped the dash harness. The ECU is solid. The 2G ignition switch went right in to the 1G key lock cylinder, so that plugged right in. The car cranks. Just debating whether I should swap the chassis harness or just find out what wire goes where. I got the hazard switch to function. Having trouble with the headlight switch though in the off position the headlights are on and with I turn the switch on the headlamp go to brights. I'm following the diagrams HMM.
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