I dont get it, whats the pic of the hood had to do with the problem you having? Are you too concern with the problem you having or the hood?
Phil because the problem Im having is the result of the hood latch failure. I popped the hood like a 100 times in 2 days. Caused the cable to go bad.
And im going to get a vaf today from a friend. It's not like theres any gt's in a junkyard around me or I would have gotten one. Also I'm replacing the temp sensor and fan temp sensor.
Did you even consider testing your VAF, harness and air temp sensor?
Get a multimeter and do it, it's not hard.
Replacing components whether they are bad on not will eventually get it fixed, but it's stupid, costly and will take longer to find the fix.
Unless you happen to luck out.
So I replaced the vaf with 2 known working ones and a known working coil and still the car doesn't start, I have a working temp sensor that I'll replace tomorrow. A friend of mine is coming over in his 89pgt and I'm going to switch my ecu in his car to see if it works. The car did run and act fine the other day but went back to being rich.. And now I can't pull the codes because it has a solid cel light and won't blink with the Sti connector hooked up.
^Carefull with that, it could be a symptom of your problems rather than the cause.
Because you are running rich it could have coked up your EGR valve.
Remove the valve and clean it right out with some carby cleaner untill the plunger moves freely and seals against the valve body.
^Carefull with that, it could be a symptom of your problems rather than the cause.
Because you are running rich it could have coked up your EGR valve.
Remove the valve and clean it right out with some carby cleaner untill the plunger moves freely and seals against the valve body.
Ok well I clean it out but for got to clean it where the sensor sits. Which I'll do tomorrow. This is what happened before I cleaned it out
test the coolant temp sensor. if the engine is cold especially if its cold outside, it has the possibility of not allowing it to start. I had unhooked mine to see what would happen with the engine warm and forgot to plug it in. Morning came and it wouldn't start. Remembered what I did and it was fine.
That in no way follows procedure of anything, but now that you have ruled out the VAF and are running extrememly rich, it may be your issue.
I always liked to think of the WSM as the "Wibla Service Manual"
edit: agree with mx_masta about the egr... you may get an 02 sensor code or you would if it was a newer car. These ones seem to not care about anything enough to throw a code. lol.
90 626 GT. "Greenie" | 02 Focus SE "Foci" | I has green wheels.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Wibla
Old cars dont die of old age, they die due to bad maintenance and clueless owners.
Lol I did the same thing today I replaced the temp sensor, fan temp sensor, replaced the o2 the other day.
As for the egr If I can get it to work then I'm just going to block it off for now since I'm getting ready to put my t3/60 trim turbo on with custom log mani and it doesn't have the piece for the Tube that goes from intake to exhuast (forget the name) and I'll be running ms1 v2.2 and I'll tune the egr out.
Good man. saved me the trouble of explaining why you need the egr hooked up if it wasn't tuned.
Yeah I've been reading all day and it's said to be bad but not many people have problems with deleting it. I like it for cooling down the combustion chambers, but since I'm going bigger turbo, higher cp pistons, port and polished head it should be a little cooler. I'll get an egt Gauge and if I'm heating up to much under boost I'll use meth injection.
^Carefull with that, it could be a symptom of your problems rather than the cause.
Because you are running rich it could have coked up your EGR valve.
Remove the valve and clean it right out with some carby cleaner untill the plunger moves freely and seals against the valve body.
I wanna thank you for all your help you have had to biggest hand in helping me here! At first I was being stuburn because I didn't know the wsm even existed. So I did go through everything and even fixed a few thing I was having problems with like my rad fan not kicking on, sourced it in the wsm and replaced the faulty fan switch temp, now waalaa it works, the vaf was indeed bad, I replaced it and code gone, now for the egr valve position sensor took it off and cleaned the gunk, the valve it self moved pretty easy, still I clean it to make sure it moved properly, then I sprayed wd40 which loosing it up more, put it back together started the car and it ilded fine drove fine for about 2mins then cel came on?? I pulled code again egr valve position sensor. So I heard there is a relay or something for it? I don't want to delete it until I put my ms in and tune it out.
The code that is showing up because either you did not hook up your position sensor back up or the valve isn't moving like it should. Soak it overnight in some solvent and clean it up on the inside. I've used oil eater in the past and works great.
The code that is showing up because either you did not hook up your position sensor back up or the valve isn't moving like it should. Soak it overnight in some solvent and clean it up on the inside. I've used oil eater in the past and works great.
Code went away car is driving real good hitting boost quicker now since I changed a few things. So I'll see how it does I hope it doesnt come back
For future needs get yourself a multimeter and learn how to use it, it would have made diagnosing the issue a lot easier.
Oh and when you have time download the whole WSM and save it to your computer.
It makes it much easier if it's on your computer rather than having to view it off the net.
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